I am happy with my range to open-raise pre-flop. But I get stumped facing a raise or re-raise. What kind of range do I need to be playing against a raise? I assume I tighten up a lot. For example, I would open-raise KTs in MP but would fold it against a raise. I tend to just call with a low PP if it's a multi-way pot. Help!

Dont look at it like the day of the week, look at it like the player. If you see a flop 4 ways with AK and it comes A84, only be scared of the better players c/ring you and what not. The weekend donks will still stack off with A6o and you shouldnt be folding to them even in this context.

Dont be afraid to get money in potentially bad vs donks as they will usually have nothing or close thereof, just ship it in and reload if they beat you.

You are pretty much correct here, but i wouldnt open KTs just fwiw.

can you tell me what software or whatever most players are using to find out there stats i see a lot of ppl that label there stats 15/11/4 ets. how are they getting these? and also what types of poker software are best pokertracker,fishfindes etc. thank you

hey doug,

thanks for cap-shouting at me in your other thread. i followed your advice and started to play raise or fold preflop. i went from 31/6 (12k hands) to 11/11. it is amazing how many pots i take down with a cbet without hitting anything on the flop.

now i'm experimenting with opening my range in co and btn. my guess is, it's better to do this with hands like 89 then QT, because it is easier to determine wether i'm ahead or not if i get called. any thoughts?

thx

Tahts an interesting question wolf, im glad you are doing better. I would say QT and 89 are about the same, if you get called QT is a little more likely to be dominated but it plays a little better postflop. Its a trade off.

Hope things continue to go well.

Pokertracker, and PAHUD. All of that stuff should be in the sticky.

But you can multitable (and seriously so) donkaments too... Reasons I would suspect instead are lack of table-selection in tourneys, and often enough higher rake. These could then be balanced by fishiness of the games, but I take it that they're not.

I would do it just to make sure that I'm winning because of skillz, not luck. I guess the thing is, I couldn't be TRULY confident in my game before I had those 20k hands, and that's what I need them for. If I was truly confident I could beat higher skates for a better winrate, I wouldn't bother with the smaller stakes. But where's the confidence supposed to come from if I don't have a large enough sample size? The only source I can think of is my ass, and that one isn't really trustworthy.

hello.

i am new to 2+2 ..i play 10nl6max.. and sometimes 25

i dont believe i understand reverse implied odds.. can please help explain the basics or point in me inthe right direction... (im having trouble finding stuff)

thank you in advance.

6 Max NL10, preflop question

Can you expand on your response to apokerlypsenow's question. I seem to be struggling with what to do in rasied pots. I have seen you say the only hand we should ever be calling with is a pp. What sort of range are we reraising with and which hands are we folding? If you don't mind, please answer for both situations where the raise is in front of us and behind us, assuming we would be heads up with the raiser.

Right now I'm only 3betting with hands like QQ+ or AK, calling 22 - JJ and folding everything else. Seems like I am missing out by not staying in with say AQ, especially in position, but I'm not sure where to draw the line.

Example of bad reverse implied odds

You have AA UTG, and raise to 4 bb on a tight table.

No one is gonna reraise you pf, and you flop an overpair they wont put in money with worse. So you have bad implied odds.

I'm really bad at reading people and putting them on a hand. Any advice or books I should check out?

You don't put your opponent "on a hand." You put him on a range of hands based on his position, aggression and the degree to which he is tight/loose.

Angel Largay covered this well in his book.

True but not really useful, since rockets has so much pot equity you're raising from UTG anyway.

Try this:

You're in the SB with a hand like ace-little, KJ or QT. A "reasonable" player in middle position opens for 4bb. You and he both have 100bb stacks.

You really can't call.

Hands like that are called "trouble hands" exactly because then suffer from reverse implied odds. If the flop comes with two little cards and one that gives you top pair, you've got a hand that you can't really like that much. Your top pair could easily be best, but it could just as easily be dominated by the same pair but with a better kicker, or those two little cards could have given your opponent a primary draw or set.

So if your opponent starts betting like maybe he wants to play for stacks you're going to have to give up your hand, along with all the chips you've put into the pot so far.

So just like implied odds is "How much money can I reasonably win if I hit my hand," reverse implied odds is "How much money can I reasonably lose if I hit my hand."

You are correct, however, since as the saying goes "You either win a small pot or lose a big one."

In my Pooh Bah Post I related this fact: The majority of a NL player's winnings will come from just two pockets - AA & KK.

I had heard this and was surprised by it, so I started a thread and had players check their PT databases. The vast majority of long term winning players reported as much as 50% of their total long term win had come from just AA & KK. But when you break the winnings down by hand, it was a long series of small pots that made up the total, not big monster pot after big monster pot.

So yes, AA has reverse implied odds. But Sweet Fancy Moses you gotta love that pot equity.

oh thats simple enough ...this is usually a big consideration in the hands that i select to play and often draws that i decide to fold in multiway pots where i think one of my opponents are dwarwing to a better flush for example..i just didnt know it was called "reverse implied odds"..cool cool

thanks guys..i appreciate you experienced guys taking the time to answer our newbi questions.

Put more faith in WCGRider's replies. I'm still a punter.

i was trying to quote both u and rider's responses... it came out weired..

ooo yuk....i just had AA on two tables at the same time (i only 2 table ..usually stick to one)..both time losing to KKs AIPF... im going to sit out for a few mins..steaming!!

i generally sit out a few hands if i think im too annoyed to play the next hand correctly... is this a good way to deal with it?? what do you do......after losing to running flushes about 10k times does it still bother you?

2 questions

1. i've dowloaded pt3 and understand what BB/100 is but what is ptBB/100? per table?? and how are they different?

2. what is 100nl,400nl, etc..? i play on poker stars and its 1/2 nl, 2/4 nl, etc.. is that just the max buy ins from different sites?

is there somewhere that goes more in to detail what the above means. i.e.20/17/4 ??

thanks

styleXx

Whoa! Where can I find this thread? That would have to mean AA-JJ and AK are responsible for like 80% of long term winnings! So basically every other hand you play only to trick your opponent into thinking you might not have a monster when you finally do?

ptbb/100 means big bets instead of big blinds, so basically divide your bb/100 by half and you get your ptbb/100.

100 400 etc is just the buyin for the tables.

Check the FAQ thread

its poker tracker stats that show how a person is playing based on what ever number of hands ..

http://forumserver.twoplustwo.com/an....php?f=32&a=74

check this out

Hey, this thread has been pretty chill! Some interesting advice from a professional. I like. I finally decided to take poker more seriously and have been reading as well as playing more. I fully agree that 5NL is too high for a $50 bankroll. Found out the hard way.

Starting with some ST SnGs just to solidify my play. Having started here a year ago, I find it easy to payout in more than I don't.

I'm unsure about buying PT3, is it a must? I can see how that would make multi-tabling more successful, but I'm starting to get pretty decent at ranging people at my low level. I've blown $50 (not counting "early successes" totalling ~$100) three times trying to make up for lost money (6 months between each deposit cause I'm cheap), which I'm over. I'm trying to be steady with my play and also focus more on the hands i'm not in. Since I read all the time about xx/yy/zz, I've started looking at players this way. It's refreshing for a sklansky/harrington bookworm.

I have one more question. What are good ways to prevent tells in live games? I haven't had trouble yet being up $65 in two sessions at Tahoe for my first time (I did re-buy-in once), but I'd hate to get put on something like that. Everytime I put in my chips (playing short-stacked 200NL) I get nervous regardless of my hand because I know luck can be killer, and that keeps me looking scared throughout.

Once again, thanks for all the posts and replies both!

Tre