I'm a beginner MTT player. Just find it a lot more fun than cash games at the moment.

I am just clicking buttons though.. I've looked at preflop 3-bet charts, and sometimes have them open while I am playing..

But, how do I actually create my strategy so I don't feel like I am just clicking buttons?

Are there any videos / courses / structured traning that helps someone to build their strategy from 0 to hero.

Looking to put some structure to it.


I've checked some sites, but topics are usually too specific, like 'How to handle turn 3 bets' or 'when to bluff the river'.

Looking for more of a path / plan / strategy builder. Hmmm

I would check out some of the titles from Dan Harrington and Jonathan Little. It has been a while since I read them, but I think Harrington's books in particular have some good insight into inflection points for MTT's based on stack size relative to blinds and antes.

3rd post since 2012? Not sure to say 'Welcome' or 'Welcome Back' ...

As indicated above, MTTs have lots of variables that cash games don't have when considering a course of attack. So you really are asking a pretty broad question that most who post here will want at least some things narrowed down.

I typically treat the early levels of a tournament as cash play, but once I (or the average stack) start to creep down to below 40-50bb it's time to really consider more tournament factors in your decision making.

How fast are the levels? You might have 25bb, but if you're playing a turbo you may not have time to wait around for a better spot and 'have' to pull the trigger.

Where's the beef? (money bubble) There's lots of chatter out there about bubble play including considering what your goals are and your stack size.

Average stack size ... This one is a bit shaky for most, but are you 'falling behind' the rest of the troops 'in general'. This really means nothing at the bubble, but IMO is a reference point that can tell you the flow of the tournament as it progresses.

Table stack dynamic ... Whose got chips and who doesn't ... And where do you sit in the picture position-wise?

Your 'plans' change for each tournament based on starting stack and structure, but in reality they don't. You just need to be aware of what's going on around you and adjust.

A perfect example is DNegs' best buddy of a hand this past WSOP, JJ. If you are 200bb deep in a slow structure, then JJ may be a fold/flat 'a lot' PF when facing a 3-4bet. But if you are down to less than 25bb with a fast clock (and no bubble coming any time soon) then JJ is an open shove. JJ with 25bb with a slow clock and in the money with pay jumps to consider may be a fold as well.

So you can see there are multiple 'plans' even for the same holding. With you not posting very much it's hard to tell how much you play. But even with a good handle on your stack and the tournament structure you may find yourself making, and changing, your plans based on the Players at your table and the stacks they have in front of them. GL

Thanks a lot Spewing and Answer20.

I just ordered some of Little's books and purchased 3 audiobooks from Audible. (waiting on print copies) so will start there.

Thanks also answer for the really detailed post, appreciate your time!

Yes, I guess what I am trying to do is, I have a couple notebooks and I want to think about my strategy from a top-down perspective and

I guess my question isn't so much 'What should I play in situation XYZ', or 'What should my plan / strategy be?'

I am asking myself first: 'How should I even build my plan / strategy?'.

I guess then I will start with Preflop hand strat in various positions at the table. I have lots of example online of this, so I can make small adjustments if needed on a set of these. And I can create these for early/mid/late stages of a tournament. I guess that gives me a good start to my strat.

Thing is, when listening to broadcasts, or podcasts, the pros, they talk with so much depth and angles/perspectives, and they all seem to understand each other. But for me it seems like another language heh. So part of my question is, how can I establish learning path to get to that point.

Well, let's see what I can come up with after a bit of thought with my notebook here.

Thanks again!

Be the player that is making the bets/raises rather than the player that limps/calls.

as the player who ran up 2k to millions in less than a month once said

"be aggressive, but be smart about it.” Isildur1

look into opening preflop betting preflop ranges for different stack sizes.
then look into 3 betting preflop betting ranges for different stack sizes.
then 4 betting preflop betting ranges for different stack sizes.

Do you know what a open bet, 3bet and 4 bet is? if not google each one of them to find out what they are.

You also have to look at your opponents ranges as well. Start with default ranges against unknown opponents then move to adjusting to their ranges.

Download Equilab or use propokertools online equity caculators.

look into bet sizes as well. if your 100BB deep or 2x the BB - 3x the BB is a standard opening bet size. if your 8BB deep or against a 8BB stack standard opening bet sizes are all in for 8BB.

this will take you awhile.

taking the ranges from equilab playing a loose aggressive style against unknowns

9 handed opening ranges

UTG1 and UTG2
22+, AJs+, KQs, QJs, JTs, T9s, 98s, AQo+

UTG 3

22+, ATs+, KQs, QJs, JTs, T9s, 98s, AJo+

MP1

22+, ATs+, KQs, QJs, JTs, T9s, 98s, 87s, 76s, ATo+, KQo

Mp2

22+, A9s+, KJs+, QTs+, J9s+, T8s+, 97s+, 87s, 76s, 65s, ATo+, KQo

Mp3

22+, A9s+, KJs+, QTs+, J9s+, T8s+, 97s+, 87s, 76s, 65s, ATo+, KQo

CO

22+, A2s+, K9s+, Q9s+, J8s+, T8s+, 97s+, 86s+, 75s+, 64s+, 54s, A2o+, KTo+, QTo+, J9o+, T8o+, 98o, 87o, 76o

Button

22+, A2s+, K2s+, Q4s+, J7s+, T8s+, 97s+, 86s+, 75s+, 64s+, 54s, A2o+, K7o+, Q8o+, J8o+, T8o+, 97o+, 87o, 76o, 65o, 54o

SB

22+, A2s+, K9s+, Q9s+, J9s+, T8s+, 97s+, 86s+, 76s, 65s, 54s, ATo+, KTo+, QTo+, J9o+, T8o+, 98o

those are some opening ranges.

if UTG1 opens with that range and we now have AJs we only have 44% equity so probably not a good idea to 3 bet. if we have KK then we have 74% equity so we should 3-bet. if we have 77 then we have 48% equity which again is not ideal to 3 bet with.

If it folds around the button however and they open and we are in BB with 88 we have 61% equity so its a good spot to 3-bet.

equity's change after pre-flop however so you will need to learn the equity's for postflop too.

with the 88 hand in the bb we three bet with we are going to 3bet with other hands too.

if we 3bet from the BB with a UTG1 opening range with 88 included in that range we have a 60% equity against buttons open making a 3 bet profitable.

lets say we are button now and have 99. we now have 55% equity against BB's range so maybe we can 4-bet. That's playing aggressively.

something to go through and think about. You also need to adjust to players so you will need to tweak the ranges a bit to get your estimates correct.

3betting with 98s which is in utg1 range from the bb against buttons range isn't profitable by itself but it mixes up your play a bit and makes you harder to play against. you also got the chance to get button to fold more times when he's in position too not allowing him to take advantage of his positional privilege. of course you have to always adjust. if you see a player open from late position then fold to a 3 bet that's giving you a clue you more likely can get away with stealing the pot preflop with marginal hands. the last mtt i played I had KQs in late position and i actually 3 bet a player who had being opening alot and then i got 4bet jammed by a player in the blinds 20BB deep and he had A7o. opening bettor folds and I decide to call. previously to that hand I had folded twice when i 3 betted once with AQo against 2 callers behind me and a jam from opener.

sometimes probably more often than not players who have accumulated alot of chips play a looser type of game. it could be loose passive or loose aggressive.

so typically you can put them in a catagory of loose and base their ranges on that.

Players who have stacks closer to starting stack sizers or slightly below starting stack sizes could be more likely tighter players unless they have lost a big pot playing loosely. in a live game you can ask them if they come to your table "did you lose a big pot? or something along those lines to figure them out.

those are little reads to keep in mind so your not trying to figure out ranges on unknown's.

Wow, this is a great tip, thanks!