Open Side Menu Go to the Top
Register
Cash "standard play" advice Cash "standard play" advice

04-09-2018 , 03:45 PM
Hello 2+2, I'm writting this to find some advice or some links to solve this problem.

I have been playing Mtts and SNGs for more than 2 years now, only a little cash at the beggining (with good results in some NL 0.002 local site). I'm ok with this, I like tourneys a lot more and can manage the tilt but the thing is, this year I will be taking care of a 10 years old child almost everyday and this will make me go out almost everyday to taking him to school, sports, etc

So my confortable life style where I could play 8-12hs in a session is no more available. There will be days where Im going to be able and others that I won't.

My idea is to start playing cash in those times where I only can play 2hours then go out to do something.

I'm sooo out of cash. I have being studing a lot recently and I think my post flop play is OK to micros. But what I need is "general cash advice" for micros full stack play.

Is there any specific link to read about it? I don't need "advice for cash" I need "what should I change in my mind tourney seted up for playing cash"
Cash "standard play" advice Quote
04-10-2018 , 12:37 PM
Search this site for other similar threads and look them over.

In general I think tournament players struggle when they first go to cash since they typically play a smaller range of hands (which makes them easier reads) and aren't used to the use of fold equity/polarizing bets 'all the time' since the blinds never go up.

The other thing to look out for is that players will/can float more Flops using their implied odds 'logic' since stacks tend to be deeper (100-200bb) all the time.

You may be more comfortable playing a short stack exploit driven game that will feel more comfortable to you since that's where tournaments 'go' in the later levels. Just remember that there are players out there that will call off 40-60bb in the same spots where tournament players fold 25-30bb. GL
Cash "standard play" advice Quote
04-10-2018 , 03:03 PM
From going from profitable mtt player to beating micro cash games I genuinely think that the best thing you can do is totally forget all you know about tournaments, it simply does not apply imo beyond what hand beats what and the super super basics. Cannot stress enough how different cash games play to mtts and I found this out the hard way...

I'm sure a lot of people will disagree but I definitely would go back and give myself this advice if I could.
Cash "standard play" advice Quote
04-10-2018 , 05:48 PM
More implied odds and post flop play due to deeper stacks.

There is also no waiting for a better spot since cash is just one long game reguardless of number of sessions, unlike busting out of a tournament. Just top off and keep playing. An ev+ play is an ev+ play. (To the devils advocates, I’m not talking about the life changing pots that come up in what if theory posts. If a pot is large enough to be life changing than you’re way past the limit you should be playing).
Cash "standard play" advice Quote
04-11-2018 , 12:33 PM
Thanks a lot for the answers, very helpful!

Another short question, for example when I play a Mtt and I found a spot like this

FLOP: 5h 7h 2c

And my hand is 89hh. I have 30bb, villain covers. If I percibe the villain has something like an overpair, I will try to find the way to go all in as soon as I can.

But, if I am at a cash table, with full stacks each, should I do the same? To be clear: if I have good reasons to think I have more than 50% equity in a hand like that I will c/r, and c/push depending of the stage of the tourney, maybe in the beggining I would play it more pasively

What I think about cash is what u said, more post flop play. With 100bb+ you can't play for stacks with TPTK for example (in general)

I also think about micro stakes, that I sould play almost always for value, not so much balancing and stuff. Only bluff to those who would fold and are a few.

I will use my 888 acount for this with 50/60 bankroll, so I will start from nl2 to get used to it. Probably 6 max
Cash "standard play" advice Quote
04-11-2018 , 12:51 PM
1) I'm not ahead, but will V fold out their equity to a shove? ... but I can also live with a call.
2) Will I get paid if I hit or do I need to press the action (or fold)?
3) How committed am I to play for stacks?
4) How often will I see a free River card against this V?
5) What size Turn bet will I have to call to continue against this V?

Cash game play is all about setting the hand up to play for max value, which might mean 'for stacks'. But it's also limiting the losses ... why 'offer' chips to a player that will 'never' put them back into play. Whereas in a tournament all the players are eventually forced to put their chips back into the middle if they wish to continue. GL
Cash "standard play" advice Quote
04-12-2018 , 08:25 AM
Big hand big pot, small hand small pot.

Look at SPR, board texture and positions to determine if TPTK is a hand you want to stack off with. It’s often not, 100bb deep.

You’ll have to make some bigger folds and more polarised bets than what short stack play allows for.
Cash "standard play" advice Quote
04-13-2018 , 03:20 PM
Thanks a lot to all, realy helpful!

I'm not sure about cbet sizes, is 1/3 or 1/4 used at cash micros?

I started yesterday and I think I took too many shots "because of the odds" for example some limped pots with connectors or just 89o like, or almost every SB spot. That must be a mistake on cash because there is no hurry. I will calm down today lol
Cash "standard play" advice Quote
04-15-2018 , 05:10 PM
The most often used cbet size at the micros is somewhere between 50-70% of the pot, though you can sometimes see 1/3 or 1/4 pot cbets too.
Cash "standard play" advice Quote
04-16-2018 , 04:27 PM
My experience in 2 little sessions like 4k hands in NL2 in 888:

- Cbet small doesn't work. Might be right for value when u think villain is folding to a bigger size.
- Villain are "polarized" lol. They never lie, or they always lie.
- Bluffing doesn't work, never does.

Now questions based on experience:

1-) Is there any reason to go after low equity proyects?. For example: I feel I am overcalling/raising in BB, SB. Post and pre flop.

2-) In theory I read about 6-max ranges, they are quite loose. For example OR TQo, A6s, JTo from UTG. The problem I find is mixing this theory with the stake NL2. Especialy post-flop. I find myself in spots where I have nothing or a low equity proyect with 2 or 3 villains in every hand.

Should I OR less?, bigger? Just don't cbet and fold when I have nothing interesting?
Cash "standard play" advice Quote
04-16-2018 , 06:12 PM
If the people you play against are calling stations, you should just bet more with your value hands and minimize your bluffing frequency.
Also, if you feel like those ranges are too loose for you, just tighten up till you feel yourself comfortable. To be honest, I play a loosely at 6max but I rarely open QTo or JTo from UTG. Suited aces are fine sometimes.

Btw two sessions are like nothing, play a bit more, you will construct a clear view of what's happening at those tables after a while. GL
Cash "standard play" advice Quote
04-16-2018 , 06:42 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by tucanroman
I'm not sure about cbet sizes, is 1/3 or 1/4 used at cash micros?
There are sticky’s that explain cbetting better than I can, but I’ll give my $0.02.

(And im assuming you’re talking about cbet bluffing)

There isn’t a standard cbet size. What bet would you make if you had a made hand here? Should a cbet be any different? Remember that when we bet we are setting up the odds that the villain has to work with. So what odds do you want to give when you have a hand? What odds does the villain have to hit the next card with his range with this board texture?

How often does villain fold to a cbet? If he folds 33% of the time than you could cbet up to half pot to be ahead or break even. (Pots $2. Cbet is $1. Lose $1 Each for two hands that the cbet fails and win $2 the one time it succeeds.)

What about someone who only fold 25% of the time?

So from the examples above you can see that depending on the villains calling frequency and board texture the frequency and size of your cbet can change.

We also hit a flop 1/3 of the time. If there are at least two callers preflop we stand to break even on the one flop we hit vs the two flops we miss. A cbet isn’t needed (still used for balance at times) to break even here. It’s also harder to bluff two or more opponents vs one. Bet $1 pre and get two callers. Pot is $3. Twice if we just gave up we would lose a total of $2. But that third time when we hit we win $3 ($2 from the callers and our original $1). We just broke even.

Then we balance everything with the semi bluff and start playing poker
Cash "standard play" advice Quote
04-16-2018 , 07:02 PM
Thanks all.

I am confortable playing loose, I do it in Mtts and SNGs, but here in cash 6 max there is no fold button pre or post flop :P

I found myself going too far postflop. I will try FR today.

I am also mixing this with my ussual mtt/sng playing and not paying all the attention I should, so maybe FR will be better until the times I play only cash.
Cash "standard play" advice Quote

      
m