Start low and slow. It's a lot easier to move up if you're kicking ass than to try and regroup if you get your clock cleaned at stakes that take a big chunk out of your roll.

Looked through the acronym/abbreviation lists in the beginner faq but didn't see these two:

ABC poker: Is this just "basic poker", no complicated strategies or is this an actual acronym?

MUB(s): Completely lost on this one, even in context I can't figure it out.

Thanks.

ABC generates a lot of disagreement. to me it's

-- Bet/raise when you think you're ahead
-- call when you're getting direct odds
-- fold otherwise

but most people use it to mean "the way a smart conservative player (me) plays at these stakes"

Is cbetting "ABC" poker? is semibluffing? calling with a pp hoping to spike a set? squeezing? 3betting light? floating? To me, not really. If it is, then ABC doesn't mean much. But most definitions of ABC get expanded to include generally-accepted techniques.

strict ABC by my definition probably won't be profitable above 5nl, but it still forms a useful reference point. aka "straight value poker"

Looking at my own stats and those of other micro nlhe beginners, I see the SB is the position that loses us the most money, by far. I thought I was being tight from the SB, but apparently not tight enough for the micros?

I was wondering if anybody knows of a good starting hand range chart for the SB, assuming microstakes of $25NL and under.

Or any general advice on playing from the SB at micro NL.

What's the difference between these two SnG games at absolute poker?

Holdem

Holdem (UT)


Thanks!!!

This was a huge leak for me starting out, as well. Most of us never really understand how important position is in nlhe.

it was bad enough for me that I would have been better off folding my small blind without ever looking at my cards. Once I saw how bad that stat was, I changed my attitude about the blinds and basically looked at them as an autofold unless it was a hand I just HAD to play for some reason. AA, KK, stuff like that.

Push hard when you know you're ahead. You aren't sad to buy a smallish pot preflop with a premium hand. If people want position on you, make them pay for it.

You'd rather not play suited connector type hands from the blinds. It will be hard to get odds to draw, and hard to get paid when you hit. Pocket pairs play a little better, because you won't lose much when you don't flop a set. It will be hard to get paid, still, so don't setmine as freely from the blinds as you do in position.

What's a good VPIP from the SB at micro NL?

I have a couple of questions:

open limp means that If you are the 1st one in the pot that you just call.. is that correct ??

I read that you should never open limp. But, what if 1,2 or 3 people limp in front of you, do you still raise with your opening range ?? I am just learning 6max and trying to understand basic preflop play.

Thanks alot.

It's only an open-limp if nobody has limped (called the big blind) in front of you. If 1, 2 or 3 people limp first, you are overlimping.

You should not raise limpers with exactly the same range you'd openraise with.

Some players will have an overlimping range in late position (eg Axs and suited connectors/1gappers), especially in a loose/passive game that's not especially deep-stacked. Others will tend to raise to punish the limpers.

thanks. now i have to look up overlimping... is there 1 place where all this info is.. just trying to focus on preflop right now.. i want to learn how to play 6max well..

don't worry about overlimping. If you never limped preflop at 6 max, you certainly won't be making a big mistake. Raising preflop will make your later decisions much easier.

also, don't obsess on preflop too overly much. you make/lose a lot more money postflop.

If I were to buy some videos from cardrunners (which im thinking about the "back to math class series") will their videos help me for 2nl-10nl?

I want to make my preflop game good and tight.. so that I wont have many difficult decisions postflop (if that is possible) at least at 1st while I am just starting out at 6max.... i am reading alot about preflop hand ranges and different recommedations and trying to put one together that fits me (beginner) and naturally a conservative person.

are you saying that if i raised every thing in my opening range regardless if there were limpers that i would not be making a big mistake ???

i have a feeling, i truly belong in the dumb question thread.

This is not a simple question. It depends on a lot of factors. Sometimes you can limp behind (or overlimp, whatever you call it) with hands that you might have open-raised, but are not good enough to isolate with.

For example, say you have 54s on the BTN with 3 limpers. The blinds are passive. I think over limping here is fine, while isolating can get you into a multiway pot with 5 high. On the other hand, if there is only one passive limper that has limp/folded before, go ahead and iso.

Post hands where you have questions about isoing vs. overlimping. Include reads on the limpers.

I'm not saying that just because you have a hand that you would have open-raised with, you should raise after limpers. I'm saying you can still restrict yourself to raise-or-fold after limpers.

For example, if it was folded to me on the button and I have A7o, I'll probably raise. But if there are 3 loose/passive limpers ahead of me, I'll just fold.

I might limp behind with A7s, but you wouldn't be far wrong to forget about calling and decide between raising and folding depending on the stack sizes and opponents.

does that make sense?

that makes alot of sense, i see what you are saying now. thanks

I have been playing online poker for a couple years. I play the micro level mtt's which I am pretty profitable. In fact my R.O.I. in those tourneys is over 110% and there has been high variance. My problem is Br management. I just won a $1 rebuy with over 700 players and got a $572 prize. A couple days later I played a 1/2 cash game and earned an extra $341. That was a huge upswing for me that I handled weakly. I lost all that in one nite playing $100-$200 buy in heads up games. I have not redeposited because I still have $40 in my account. I am only in the red about $160. With all things considered do you think I should begin playing the micro level mtt's until I hit a few ft's and win some more tourneys and then move up to slightly higher mtt stakes? I think my weakness is the hu games as my itm is only 47% in a 270 game sample. I will not play those anymore, at least not for more than $5 and after I read all the hu posts on here which I have not done yet.

If you want to flame away at me then go for it. I believe if I finally begin managing my br and playing within my means then I can be a winning player. Any respectful or constructively critical feedback will be much appreciated. Thanks.

Is this link http://poker.wikia.com/wiki/MicroLimitLibrary

equivalent to the uNL archives in the stickies ??

If not, where can I find this for nl ??

Chris ferguson says: BI = 2% * BR.

Good luck

Don't buy into a tournament unless you have 50 buyins in your roll (including tournament fees). Don't play in an NL game unless you have 20 full buyins in your roll. Don't play in a limit game unless you have 300 big bets in your roll.

This should get you started in terms of solid bankroll management. With a roll of $40 this means that you shouldn't play any $1 tournaments yet, but you're just rolled for NL2 or .05/.10 limit.

ah this is very useful info

I have 13w$ on pokerstars, where can I go to trade them and are they even worth anything?

W$ sell for about 98% of value:

W$/T$ Marketplace V9.0! Buy & Sell W$/T$ here!

I'm considering switching from micro 6max to HU. Not now, but in the near future.

What's a decent sustainable BB/100 for HU? Assuming you are one of the better players, is it easier to build a roll at 6max or HU?

You should make more playing HU. But drop down a level or two. And HU is all about game selection.