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Newbie question:

I hear internet players talk about opponents they've had in terms of three numbers (like opponent is X/Y/Z). What do these mean?

*** READ THIS FIRST!!! What do the numbers xx/yy/zz mean? *** BEGINNER FORUM FAQ ***

Thanks :-)

You should put these somewhere obvious where everyone will see them IMO

Now ya cant datamine at FTP with pokertracker is idleminer a load of rubbish. or does idleminer work because they give some of there profit to FTP

So, you're saying that you fold the bottom 30% of hands to min raises 100% of the time. I would assume that's a leak as well, isn't it? People would obviously take advantage of you if you were folding your BB unless you had a top 25% hand. If they know how to fold, they'll min raise you, and you'll fold 3 out of 4 times, then the times you don't fold, you can' still get stacked if they hit whatever hand they're min raiseing you with.

No, I'm saying don't call min-raises from the BB 100% of the time.

A nit min-raising UTG is completely different from a LAG min-raising the button.


90% of poker is position.

The other 10%... is position.

Playing OOP is difficult. Playing OOP in raised pots moreso. So avoid playing OOP unless you have a good reason to do so (ie; a strong hand, a good read on your opponent).

Bankroll management is based on risk-of-ruin calculations (pzhon created the canonical post). Based on assumptions about your likely winrate, variance, and tolerance for the possibility of losing everything, these sort of overgeneralized 20-buyin recommendations emerge.

taking those assumptions at face value, the idea is that if you start with 20buyins, and win at the assumed rate with the assumed variance, you only face a small chance of going busto. but the math assumes that your roll continues to grow at that rate. As your career gets longer, you will encounter larger downswings, but in general you will have grown your roll before you hit them.

HOWEVER, if you continually take money out of the roll, you will eventually hit one of those big, unlikely downswings without a big healthy built-up roll. This is no good. The math says if you skim 100% of profits indefinitely, you will go broke "with probability = 1".

to a risk-of-ruin calculation, any money you withdraw from the roll counts against your winrate. If you win 5BB/100 at 10k hands/week of 100nl and figure 20bi starting roll is adequate if you never cash out, but then decide to withdraw $500/week (half your profit), you need to double your bankroll to 40bi to maintain the same risk of ruin.

what does ITT mean? I see it used quite a bit in the forums

In This Thread

How does this sit in with good bankroll management, whereby if I have 20BB playing 50nl, and I'm playing 10 tables at once, and I bust out on all of them, my next game should be in 25nl until my bankroll returns to 20BB? Does risk of ruin not take this into account? Or does it all depend on how many tables you play at once, etc?

Where in this thread?










I'll get my coat.

what does Vig stand for?? i know what it means but does it stand for something or a short form for a word?

Vigorish.

risk of ruin does not account for moving up or down. it's a very simple formula actually, based on this concept:

imagine somebody offers you a bet, say a coinflip, with favorable odds. Say he'll pay you $1.10 for every $1 you wager, when you win the flip. You can choose any amount to bet, and you can take the bet over and over again. You have a fixed starting bankroll.

naturally, you don't want to bet your whole roll on the first toss, because you have a 50% chance of busting out. Not only do you lose all your money, you now can't take this very profitable bet. Nor do you want to bet too tiny fraction of our roll. We do like winning money as fast as reasonable.

So we do some math and figure out the proper balance between the expectation of the bet, the variance of the bet, and how sure we want to be that we don't go broke. You can't ever be 100% sure, because no law of physics prevents the coin from flipping against you every time from now to eternity. But that's unlikely.

Anyway, you're probably not interested in the actual arithmetic. google risk of ruin and you'll get more math than you could want. But that's the model: a bet iterated, 1 expectation, 1 variance, 1 risk of ruin. nothing more complicated. how you use that formula in bankroll management is up to you.

being willing to move down when you're losing effectively prevents you from going totally busto, assuming you don't lose everything at .01/.02. It allows you to play with a smaller bankroll than you'd need otherwise. In fact, the 20 buyin guideline is too aggressive without this effect.

hey is it safe playing on random unsecured wireless servers in NYC??

I have firewall/av running, but am i at added risk by connectin to these and playing stars?

Where do I go to have a rant about stars not letting me change my nickname?

http://forumserver.twoplustwo.com/54...rags-variance/

Don't know, but if you try CTH there are some pretty sharp cats in there, who may be able to help.

So I understand poker games in general, know the Omaha rules and some basics also, but any article/place I should look to start playing PLO more seriously? Looking for something akin to Fee's 6max Hold'em Guide.

Why are there so many requests for money from the players?
ie. $1000 on pokerstars for partypoker
just heard a $300k request from Patrick Antonius to Durrrr

Once or twice i could understand but it seems like it's very common.

depositing $100 can be a headache lately. Can you imagine what it takes to deposit $300 grand? A lot of that trading is to get around deposit hassles, I think.

What are people referring to when they talk about the Doomswitch.

It's the switch that all poker sites have that determines whether you run good or run horrible.

(Note: The vast majority of references to doomswitch are jokes or frustrated players blowing off steam. Only a very small percentage of players (you'll recognize them from their tinfoil hats) use the term seriously).