What rank are you? I'd be up for a game or two if we can find the time before I leave -- I'm super rusty so I don't really care about my rank atm.

Cevo's client is pretty awful and they have no mm (sort games by average efficacy and don't join the super low ones), but there aren't many great options outside of ESEA (which is a shame as their ownership is super sketchy and they've done plenty of **** in the past). Faceit's okay once you grind out of their low elo brackets, but unfortunately ESEA really is still the place to be.

There's also a new service called popflash that's getting buzz lately, but you need 150mm wins before you can play there. It has a strong playerbase and the servers are good though, apparently. If I was still playing GO much I'd definitely check it out.

Hey guys,

i play NL2 6-max and as u can see im new to this forum,

im having trouble finding a decent "SB defending range vs standart BTN opening ranges. ( 35%-50)

I know that ranges vary with villains, but i thought i could just need an general % idea, or some example of hands that play well OOP postflop.

If i had to guess what my actual defending range from the SB looks like id say its nitty somewhere between 11% -16% overall.

Don't ever call, just 3b top 15% is a good start.

If you want to adjust vs. their opening range you're probably going to be OK 3-betting 1/3 of their range - so if they open 30%, you can 3b 10%. If they open 45%, you can 3b 15%. So you're still playing 11-16% of hands, it's just that you're only three betting them now.

Thanks guys,
im gonna follow your advice and am excited to see how it works.

gosh i love this forum and will keep dem questions coming. (+ some stats as soon as i get PT4)
hav a nice day!

Thanks man!!

I find I win most at a TAG style, cause I can successfully bluff a few pots later on based on my previous play.

Keep in mind -- as you get better you learn to play more and more hands profitably, but don't force yourself to play super LAG before you feel comfortable.

I think it's smart to strive to play *slightly* wider than you're comfortable with at every point (til you're super confident in your play), because that's what gets you comfortable in new spots, but don't just jump off the deep end. Just add a few hands around the fringes here and there, and when those start feeling comfortable, add a few more around the fringes.

Hey didnt know where to post this, but does anyone know of a hh converter that converts into bb ?

You can do this with your options in PT4.

I have HM2 : (

Ruling question:
New to the forum, not sure if there's a better thread for this.

10-handed game and I'm in front of the button,
Dealer flips up my 2nd card and dealt me the next one off the deck and forgets about the button.
3 people calls the blind and 4th person raises, button says I only have one card...
Do they get the next card off the deck or they play with their one card?
Thanks

dealer is a moron

I think that's probably a misdeal, the hand has to start again

I regularly read that noobs shouldn't get attached to hands just because they're suited - J10, KQ, 78 etc - because they're not only very often second best even when they hit the flop but also because there's marginal difference in odds between suited and unsuited yet I have read a couple of threads receently where regs have told noobs to ditch the unsuited hands but the suited cards are a go. So what's the deal?

These concepts you mention are not mutually exclusive.

Suited cards are a stronger starting point than unsuited cards. For that reason A2s is a far better starting point, whether as a light 3-bet or as a button raise, than A2o. Having said that, getting attached to 72s just because it's suited would be a bad thing.

Starting with a suited hand, you're about 3% to end up with the flush. So a suited hand has (about) 3% higher equity than offsuit. 3% is actually a pretty huge amount when you're good, but when you aren't, you are going to make bigger mistakes. It's more important to deal with those mistakes.

Whose responsibility is it to know the pot size in live pot limit games? It seems like (good) players always know what to put out when raising the pot. Is it a math skill that I need to learn? (I can only keep an estimate in my head.)

You need to have that skill because you need it in NL games too.

In a casino PL game, it's the dealer's responsibility to know the pot size if you ask for it though. I've played lots of casino NL games where the dealer isn't allowed to tell you pot size.

just keep an estimate. if you want to bet the pot, just say pot and let the dealer work it out. if you think it's about $200 and bet $200, but the pot's only, say, $185, the dealer should round it down to a PSB for you

How do you export a hand from HE2 to a post so that they can play the hand back instead of reading out the hand history? I see some people do it when discussing hands and it seems a lot easier to work with than reading through text

but isn't there substantial action already?

I have played a few hands recently where I have had a strong hands versus flush draws and become unstuck on the turn and river and so am wondering about whether to be over-aggressive and go all in.

I have found that betting enough on the turn to give a flush draw bad odds often gets called by these desperados and so when the flush is completed on the river I am placed in an uneasy situation. If I bet he can raise me - even on a buff - and if I check, he can still fire (often all in) with both a bluff and the nuts.

Ergo would it be better (at my donk ability anyway) to go all in on the turn? This would not only put maximum pressure on any flush draw and give really bad odds for his 19 percenter (31% if he has overcards) but also save me an agonising decision on the river.

That's why I think it's just probably a misdeal.

If you have one card, it's your job to tell the dealer, as well as the dealer's job to notice. It's kind of everyone's job too - if you see someone else has only one card, it's perfectly fine to say "stop" or "wait" and point it out.

So I think it being declared a misdeal or forcing you to play with only one card are the options you'll see a floorman take, but I don't know if this counts as substantial, so I'd learn towards misdeal.

There is essentially never a time when villain has only exactly a flush draw and holds no other hands. If you knew he had exactly a flush draw then you bet 3/4 pot on the flop and fold every time it comes in.

The problem is that villain has a flush draw some of the time, a set some of the time, a straight draw some of the time, top pair some of the time, two overcards, some of the time, etc. You have to play against his range of hands, not against one particular hand in that range.

I understand but let's say you have the nut straight and the only thing that can beat you is a flush - then what do you do?

With regards to ranging an opponent, how would you work out what your equity is. Do you use software to calculate your hand against whatever villain could have? At the micro levels villains can have anything, literally. Yesterday I saw a guy call a raise and a reraise with 5 7 and felted AA and QQ.