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***** Official Dumb Questions Thread **** ***** Official Dumb Questions Thread ****

11-14-2012 , 05:58 PM
ah okay thanks.

will download the android version of poker stove
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11-14-2012 , 08:42 PM
Wow I am on my first real losing streak... Bank roll dropped from $48 to $30 in less than 1000 hands. I am continuously doing bad calls even when I know that I am mostly likely going to lose. Here is one example, also I don't know what the **** I was thinking on turn. I knew that he had flush but instead of calling which would have been OK, I decide to shove it like a big ******:


PokerStars - $0.02 NL (6 max) - Holdem - 5 players
Hand converted by PokerTracker 4

UTG: $3.80
Hero (CO): $2.09
BTN: $2.75
SB: $2.96
BB: $1.98

SB posts SB $0.01, BB posts BB $0.02

Pre Flop: (pot: $0.03) Hero has A K

fold, Hero raises to $0.07, fold, fold, BB calls $0.05

Flop: ($0.15, 2 players) 4 K 9
BB checks, Hero bets $0.10, BB calls $0.10

Turn: ($0.35, 2 players) K
BB checks, Hero checks

River: ($0.35, 2 players) 3
BB checks, Hero bets $0.34, BB raises to $0.68, Hero raises to $1.92 and is all-in, BB calls $1.13 and is all-in

Hero shows A K (Three of a Kind, Kings) (Pre 71%, Flop 67%, Turn 82%)
BB shows 8 A (Flush, Ace High) (Pre 29%, Flop 33%, Turn 18%)
BB wins $3.83


So my question is, how the hell am I supposed to deal with running bad as a beginner, I usually know the right call but sometimes I do stupid calls even when I can clearly tell that I am going to lose. Guess I should take a few days break and see if my mind resets to normal.
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11-15-2012 , 03:03 AM
Why not bet turn when your hand improves, letting him see a free card which makes his flush?
You have to charge draws and if they fold to the bet so be it.
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11-15-2012 , 06:54 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Studebaker Hawk
Why not bet turn when your hand improves, letting him see a free card which makes his flush?
You have to charge draws and if they fold to the bet so be it.
My point wasn't that, I know pretty much how to play that correctly and usually do but I was frustrated, and my question is what is the best way to get out of this state of mind where I just do idiotic moves, just like giving free card on turn and shoving when I know that I am behind.
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11-15-2012 , 08:40 AM
Hey sup me again im having some problems with understanding pot odds, especially working out when to continue,

for eg:
my hand is 89spades and suited
im on the button
i have $965 for my stack
and im heads up

board is 7d 10h 4s

my opponent bets $20

im told that atm i have 8 outs for the open straight draw so i need about 4.9:1 odds to continue
im getting 80+20:20 => 100;200 or 5:1 odds to call right

so from here is where my problem is working out if i call or fold

if i convert the 4.9:1 to a percentage i get 1/1+4.9= 16.949%
and if i convert the odds my opponent is giving me 1/1+5= i get 16.667%


So please correct me if ive made a mistake dont i need at least 4.9:1 to continue but comparing the odds my opp has given me i shouldnt since the 5:1 odds are smaller than the 4.9:1 odds when i compare the percentages.

But I was told it was okay to continue as the odds are good enough which has now confused me greatly, can someone please help me and point out where ive gone wrong? Maybe im not comparing the odds properly??

im beyond puzzled please help!
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11-15-2012 , 02:21 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by louiebh
Hey sup me again im having some problems with understanding pot odds, especially working out when to continue,

for eg:
my hand is 89spades and suited
im on the button
i have $965 for my stack
and im heads up

board is 7d 10h 4s

my opponent bets $20

im told that atm i have 8 outs for the open straight draw so i need about 4.9:1 odds to continue
im getting 80+20:20 => 100;200 or 5:1 odds to call right

so from here is where my problem is working out if i call or fold

if i convert the 4.9:1 to a percentage i get 1/1+4.9= 16.949%
and if i convert the odds my opponent is giving me 1/1+5= i get 16.667%


So please correct me if ive made a mistake dont i need at least 4.9:1 to continue but comparing the odds my opp has given me i shouldnt since the 5:1 odds are smaller than the 4.9:1 odds when i compare the percentages.

But I was told it was okay to continue as the odds are good enough which has now confused me greatly, can someone please help me and point out where ive gone wrong? Maybe im not comparing the odds properly??

im beyond puzzled please help!
In this case you have to consider your back door flush draw as well as two pair or trip draws which add slightly to your odds.

Even not considering these other outs however, you could call even though you are just a smidgen short of proper odds to call because if you do hit your straight you most likely will be able to get more money off of villain and this increases your pot odds at the time. This is called implied odds and it is important in nlhe
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11-15-2012 , 02:24 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by louiebh
Hey sup me again im having some problems with understanding pot odds, especially working out when to continue,

for eg:
my hand is 89spades and suited
im on the button
i have $965 for my stack
and im heads up

board is 7d 10h 4s

my opponent bets $20

im told that atm i have 8 outs for the open straight draw so i need about 4.9:1 odds to continue
im getting 80+20:20 => 100;200 or 5:1 odds to call right

so from here is where my problem is working out if i call or fold

if i convert the 4.9:1 to a percentage i get 1/1+4.9= 16.949%
and if i convert the odds my opponent is giving me 1/1+5= i get 16.667%


So please correct me if ive made a mistake dont i need at least 4.9:1 to continue but comparing the odds my opp has given me i shouldnt since the 5:1 odds are smaller than the 4.9:1 odds when i compare the percentages.

But I was told it was okay to continue as the odds are good enough which has now confused me greatly, can someone please help me and point out where ive gone wrong? Maybe im not comparing the odds properly??

im beyond puzzled please help!
from what I know you would have about 32% change of hitting your straight according to rule of 4 and 2 therefore you wou would be 1:2 dog? if there is already $20 in pot then you could call... Some1 more experienced can correct me if I am wrong
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11-15-2012 , 02:25 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by manjondeere
In this case you have to consider your back door flush draw as well as two pair or trip draws which add slightly to your odds.

Even not considering these other outs however, you could call even though you are just a smidgen short of proper odds to call because if you do hit your straight you most likely will be able to get more money off of villain and this increases your pot odds at the time. This is called implied odds and it is important in nlhe
ah i see so am i calculating it correctly backdoor flush aside? because this video im watching said i need odds like 5:1,6:1,7:1 to continue yet when i compare them to the percentage its only getting smaller could you explain that to me?
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11-15-2012 , 03:30 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by louiebh
ah i see so am i calculating it correctly backdoor flush aside?
Considering only the oesd (open ended straight draw) your odds of hitting it are calculated as follows.

There are 8 cards in the deck that will complete the straight and there are 47 cards remaining (52 in the deck minus 2 in your hand and 3 in the flop, you can't count opponents' hands since you don't know what they have) out of which you can hit your straight. This means the percentage of the time you will hit your straight by the turn is 8/47 ~ 1/6 or 17%.

I dont understand the second question exactly, can you please rephrase it and I'll give it a whirl.
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11-15-2012 , 03:36 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by On Level 1
from what I know you would have about 32% change of hitting your straight according to rule of 4 and 2 therefore you wou would be 1:2 dog? if there is already $20 in pot then you could call... Some1 more experienced can correct me if I am wrong
I believe that there is ~32% chance of hitting the straight BY THE RIVER but you need to consider the turn as a different calculation unless you are all in
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11-15-2012 , 03:38 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by manjondeere
Considering only the oesd (open ended straight draw) your odds of hitting it are calculated as follows.

There are 8 cards in the deck that will complete the straight and there are 47 cards remaining (52 in the deck minus 2 in your hand and 3 in the flop, you can't count opponents' hands since you don't know what they have) out of which you can hit your straight. This means the percentage of the time you will hit your straight by the turn is 8/47 ~ 1/6 or 17%.

I dont understand the second question exactly, can you please rephrase it and I'll give it a whirl.
ah okay so when calc'ing my equity(did i use the right word) should i always use your method of subtracting from the deck? i havent seen this method before

Also my main problem is really comparing the odds im getting to the 8/47 to determine whether I play on or fold.

with the 100:20 how am i getting good enough odds to continue mathematically? isnt the odds on the table smaller than the 17% therefore i should fold?

the vid did go on to mention something about implied odds but i cant really move on till i understand this part of the maths
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11-15-2012 , 03:52 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by louiebh
ah okay so when calc'ing my equity(did i use the right word) should i always use your method of subtracting from the deck? i havent seen this method before

Also my main problem is really comparing the odds im getting to the 8/47 to determine whether I play on or fold.

with the 100:20 how am i getting good enough odds to continue mathematically? isnt the odds on the table smaller than the 17% therefore i should fold?

the vid did go on to mention something about implied odds but i cant really move on till i understand this part of the maths
Equity is a more encompassing metric that will use both the odds that you will make your hand that will be winning as well as any folding equity that you may have. So no this is not equity but rather pot odds we are calculating.

With $20 to win $100 you are being laid 5:1 odds to call or 1/5 of the pot to continue. This is not enough based solely on pot odds alone to call.

I would bet that the video was assuming you could get at least 1 more $20 bet out of villain if you hit your straight so it make your total odds including implied odds just enough to make this a profitable call.
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11-15-2012 , 03:55 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by louiebh
ah okay so when calc'ing my equity(did i use the right word) should i always use your method of subtracting from the deck? i havent seen this method before
I know that there are other methods that make the math alot easier and im sure they will work fine. I always liked this "from scratch" method, but I am a math fan.
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11-15-2012 , 04:01 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by louiebh
ah okay so when calc'ing my equity(did i use the right word) should i always use your method of subtracting from the deck? i havent seen this method before
Another way of looking at the same ratio with different notation is we have 8 outs of 47 cards, we are then getting 47/8:1 or ~6:1 (really 5.875:1 without rounding)

hopefully all the different notations arent confusing you. All of these mean the same thing: 6:1, 1/6, 16.67%

just different ways of saying the same thing, does that make sense?
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11-15-2012 , 08:42 PM
Ok so its been a year since I have opened up the strategy forums and its been a over a year since ive read any poker strategy at all. Played 1/2 nl yesterday and lost to some people I would normally crush. felt really rusty also felt tight-weak and like I have forgotten a lot. I mean obviously I remember how to play abc poker and some harrington on holdem level stuff but I need to restudy a whole bunch of stuff and relearn how to critically evaluate hands.

What steps should i take to relearn the game?
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11-15-2012 , 10:04 PM
Is there anywhere i can view my cash game graph without having used a pokertracker? Im on stars so cant view ptr profile.
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11-16-2012 , 08:28 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by manjondeere
Equity is a more encompassing metric that will use both the odds that you will make your hand that will be winning as well as any folding equity that you may have. So no this is not equity but rather pot odds we are calculating.

With $20 to win $100 you are being laid 5:1 odds to call or 1/5 of the pot to continue. This is not enough based solely on pot odds alone to call.

I would bet that the video was assuming you could get at least 1 more $20 bet out of villain if you hit your straight so it make your total odds including implied odds just enough to make this a profitable call.
I may have been wrong about the definition of equity. Nevertheless all the math and theory is right.

Cheers
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11-16-2012 , 10:27 AM
I like to know more about flop cbet sizing in diferent situations vs diferent type of opponets. could someone tell e where i can find some info about this? i tried to search on forum.
thanks
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11-16-2012 , 03:33 PM
I used to play online poker all the time before black friday now I hardly play and haven't been paying attention to the online poker news. What is a safe site to play in the US for money? Also is it illegal?
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11-16-2012 , 04:19 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gigi Becali
I like to know more about flop cbet sizing in diferent situations vs diferent type of opponets. could someone tell e where i can find some info about this? i tried to search on forum.
thanks
Bet sizing really is math and balance. This topic is covered in detail in the Math of Poker by Bill Chen. You want to standardize your bet sizing (to be unexploitble) and have the standards be based on the board, pot size an amount of people in the hand. The basics of it are is bet more on wetter boards to make it less profitable for people to continue with a draw and bet less dryer boards.
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11-16-2012 , 07:14 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Shenanigans
Bet sizing really is math and balance. This topic is covered in detail in the Math of Poker by Bill Chen. You want to standardize your bet sizing (to be unexploitble) and have the standards be based on the board, pot size an amount of people in the hand. The basics of it are is bet more on wetter boards to make it less profitable for people to continue with a draw and bet less dryer boards.
About being exploitable, I was watching a deuces cracked video Real life NL grinder or something where they were discussing this matter and they came in to conclusion that you could vary your bet sizing depending on your hand against unaware people(Most ppl in micro stakes(?)), what do you think about this?
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11-17-2012 , 03:39 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by On Level 1
About being exploitable, I was watching a deuces cracked video Real life NL grinder or something where they were discussing this matter and they came in to conclusion that you could vary your bet sizing depending on your hand against unaware people(Most ppl in micro stakes(?)), what do you think about this?
Hellz yea! you can extract maximum value and lose minimum chips that way if fish aren't noticing
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11-17-2012 , 12:11 PM
pot odds questions:

If i have a 15 out draw, using 45 rule, then 15 into 45 is 3:1 which means i need 2:1 from the pot? is this correct?

if someone bets 50 into 100 otr, if im contemplating making a call and the pot is laying me 3:1, i need to be right 1 in (how many times)? 4? i really dont get it!
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11-17-2012 , 01:52 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by BlerpOne
pot odds questions:

If i have a 15 out draw, using 45 rule, then 15 into 45 is 3:1 which means i need 2:1 from the pot? is this correct?

if someone bets 50 into 100 otr, if im contemplating making a call and the pot is laying me 3:1, i need to be right 1 in (how many times)? 4? i really dont get it!
It gets more complicated when you include implied odds, position, range assigned to opponent , and whether you can win hand without hitting draw.
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11-17-2012 , 04:07 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by serio562
It gets more complicated when you include implied odds, position, range assigned to opponent , and whether you can win hand without hitting draw.
*sigh

Implied odds: has to do with betting on future streets (no future streets in the example)

Position: Weather im check calling or just calling is irrelevant to the example in the question no?

"and whether you can win hand without hitting draw": (no future streets)

: What could your other 1k+ posts possibly consist of?


isnt the question about weather to call when facing a river bet, in terms of pot odds alone? Dont we then use the range that we put the villain on to determine weather we are good 1 out of x amount of times?
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