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***** Official Dumb Questions Thread **** ***** Official Dumb Questions Thread ****

03-10-2012 , 12:17 PM
thanks so much guys , really appreciate the help given here, wohooo
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03-10-2012 , 02:45 PM
What game, if any, would have more variance?

6-max turbo don
or
10-max turbo don

I am thinking 6 max (sorta like cash game?) or no diff.

Any thoughts? Thx

Edit: Pretty sure HUSNG players have higher rois than 6m or fr so now Im leaning towards 6m. Im leveling myself now.

So would higher attainable rois in games make that game have less variance?
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03-11-2012 , 04:50 PM
when you are pot committed? For example me playing 500 chips HUsng at how much im afford to lose from my stack before im committed? any standards there??
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03-11-2012 , 07:58 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by GoDeViLs
What game, if any, would have more variance?

6-max turbo don
or
10-max turbo don

I am thinking 6 max (sorta like cash game?) or no diff.

Any thoughts? Thx

Edit: Pretty sure HUSNG players have higher rois than 6m or fr so now Im leaning towards 6m. Im leveling myself now.

So would higher attainable rois in games make that game have less variance?
I am thinking 6max as their will be more action and aggression. But i don't think there would be much of a difference between the two.
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03-11-2012 , 08:15 PM
Hey guys, I'm new here and to poker, been reading alot but realized I got a dumb question. In some cases I wonder how "full house"-hands is ranked among themselves. For example, this one got to me, which is better KKKQQ or QQQAA?
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03-11-2012 , 08:19 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by FakeThinking
Hey guys, I'm new here and to poker, been reading alot but realized I got a dumb question. In some cases I wonder how "full house"-hands is ranked among themselves. For example, this one got to me, which is better KKKQQ or QQQAA?
They rank according to the 3 of the same, then the 2. So KKK > QQQ, therefore KKKQQ beats QQQAA.
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03-11-2012 , 08:24 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by FakeThinking
Hey guys, I'm new here and to poker, been reading alot but realized I got a dumb question. In some cases I wonder how "full house"-hands is ranked among themselves. For example, this one got to me, which is better KKKQQ or QQQAA?
KKKQQ

When reading a full house, the three of a kind is the most important part. The pair only matters if both players have the same three of a kind.
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03-11-2012 , 08:40 PM
Ah, makes sense, got it. Thanks!
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03-12-2012 , 06:50 PM
A couple questions about this poker article:
http://www.chicagotribune.com/entert...,5750543.story

1) Is Boyd correct that a player should buy-in for the minimum? My understanding is that a player should always buy-in for a full stack.

2) What is your opinion of stop-loss and/or win limits?
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03-12-2012 , 09:27 PM
New players, under-rolled players, easily-tilted players and players trying to reduce their variance should buy in shorter.
If you are a proven winner and are immune to tilt, then buying in for the maximum is preferable.
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03-13-2012 , 10:57 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by ArtySmokes
New players, under-rolled players, easily-tilted players and players trying to reduce their variance should buy in shorter.
If you are a proven winner and are immune to tilt, then buying in for the maximum is preferable.
If a player is a proven winner, why is it preferable to buy-in for the maximum and play with a full stack?

Do you agree with using loss and win stop-limits?
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03-13-2012 , 01:00 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by BONDMI5
If a player is a proven winner, why is it preferable to buy-in for the maximum and play with a full stack?
If he has an edge on all the other players at a table, he wants to be at least as deep as the deepest stack, so that he can use his skills to double up for the maximum amount. e.g. If you flop top set and villain is a calling station with 100bb, you can only win his whole stack if you also have 100bb.
Quote:
Originally Posted by BONDMI5
Do you agree with using loss and win stop-limits?
To a certain extent, yes. I actually play fairly short-stacked often, because I'm someone that is prone to tilt-spew if I lose a whole 100bb buy-in early on in a session. If I only lose a 60bb stack, I'm not so badly affected.
New players may also find that natural variance can lead them to quickly lose their initial deposit/bankroll if they keep buying in for the max and just hit a run of bad luck. As a newbie, they might not understand how much luck is involved. Playing short minimises the losses caused by variance and bad play.
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03-13-2012 , 03:45 PM
Hello everyone, im currently a 26,8/20,6 at 5nl 6-max and in my search for a table i'm trying to find a table with at least 5 players seated, a min VPIP % 30, somewhat 20-30% of players/ flop and only play tables that the minimun stack is 3 $. is this the correct way to do it? thanks....
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03-13-2012 , 04:13 PM
If you are at 26....why would a 30 make any difference for you? Really depends on make up of other 5 players. One 85/5 whale mixed in with a bunch of nits is still going to initially look juicy.
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03-13-2012 , 05:17 PM
I just started to nail down the fullring starting hands 'chart' for NLH they have over at pokerstrategy, takes some time to memorize it all!

However I got a hold of the book 'Holdem poker for advanced player' and have only yet glanced at the first part of it dealing with starting hands. They look different from pokerstrategys starters, but which ones would be recommended?

Although I'm a newbie I need some trainingwheels and I figured I might as well memorize good starting hands.
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03-13-2012 , 05:27 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by FakeThinking
I just started to nail down the fullring starting hands 'chart' for NLH they have over at pokerstrategy, takes some time to memorize it all!
However I got a hold of the book 'Holdem poker for advanced player' and have only yet glanced at the first part of it dealing with starting hands. They look different from pokerstrategys starters, but which ones would be recommended?
Everyone has slightly different starting hand charts and they will depend on whether you are playing 6max, full ring, or tournaments, and also on whether you play on a site that is nitty and full of regs (Stars, Merge, iPoker) or fishy (888, Party).
It's more important to learn about the importance of position, in my opinion, as some hands are fine to open late, but are terrible hands to call with pre-flop.
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03-13-2012 , 05:58 PM
I was thinking of building my NLH fullring skills. They actually have different ranges of starting hands based on your position (something Hellmuth's playing like the pros book (lol) seemed to ignore), so its a lot to memorize - do this here, do that there! I guess I'll go with Sklanskys recommendations, he seems to know what hes doing
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03-13-2012 , 09:11 PM
Quick question for a math wiz.
If I bet 60% of pot on the flop with complete air, how often does villain need to fold for me to break even? My old notes say I need fold equity of 37.5%, but this looks very low (and easily achievable) to me, so I'm wondering if I made a mistake with the EV calcs.
Note: I got 37.5 by dividing 60 by 160. Correct?
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03-13-2012 , 10:46 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by ArtySmokes
Quick question for a math wiz.
If I bet 60% of pot on the flop with complete air, how often does villain need to fold for me to break even? My old notes say I need fold equity of 37.5%, but this looks very low (and easily achievable) to me, so I'm wondering if I made a mistake with the EV calcs.
Note: I got 37.5 by dividing 60 by 160. Correct?
Seems right to me!

Assuming you always lose 60 if villain calls, then if villain folds x proportion of the time, villain calls 1- x of the time. So your EV is

(x)(100) - (1-x)(60) = 160x - 60

We want this to be positive, so 160x > 60, or x > 60/160 = 3/8 = 37.5%

Of course, real poker hands are more complicated since you sometimes win if villain calls, and sometimes lose more if villain calls and you catch a nice turn that isn't quite as nice as you think.
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03-13-2012 , 10:57 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by ArtySmokes
Quick question for a math wiz.
If I bet 60% of pot on the flop with complete air, how often does villain need to fold for me to break even? My old notes say I need fold equity of 37.5%, but this looks very low (and easily achievable) to me, so I'm wondering if I made a mistake with the EV calcs.
Note: I got 37.5 by dividing 60 by 160. Correct?
To break-even: (%time win)(amount won)=(%time lost)(amount lost)
(x)(pot)=(1-x)(.6pot)
x=(1-x).6
x=.6-.6x
1.6x=.6
x=.375
Break-even point is 37.5%
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03-14-2012 , 05:02 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by FakeThinking
I just started to nail down the fullring starting hands 'chart' for NLH they have over at pokerstrategy, takes some time to memorize it all!

However I got a hold of the book 'Holdem poker for advanced player' and have only yet glanced at the first part of it dealing with starting hands. They look different from pokerstrategys starters, but which ones would be recommended?

Although I'm a newbie I need some trainingwheels and I figured I might as well memorize good starting hands.
Quote:
Originally Posted by FakeThinking
I was thinking of building my NLH fullring skills. They actually have different ranges of starting hands based on your position (something Hellmuth's playing like the pros book (lol) seemed to ignore), so its a lot to memorize - do this here, do that there! I guess I'll go with Sklanskys recommendations, he seems to know what hes doing
Hold'em Poker For Advanced Players by Sklansky & Malmuth is specifically about LIMIT holdem, not NL. So don't use those starting hand recommendations, they are for a different game !
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03-15-2012 , 10:02 AM
Hi

Another dreaded KAo question here. I've recently decided to get serious and actually start reading and studying more (revisiting the basics), so I decided to pick up Collin Moshman's Sit n Go Strategy book. I wanted to ask about this example:

Blinds 30/60
Hero is SB with KAo (1940)
MP+1 raises to 200
CO (2100), BTN (1760) smooth call
(pot 690)

Collin advocates shoving all in here considering the hand is too strong to fold yet, there is still one person left to act and we will be OOP against at least three people if we call.

I have no doubt Collin's advice is the correct, but I wonder with all things considered, why do we not reraise here rather than risk our tournament life so early for t690 with KAo?

Im sorry if the answer is very apparent but again my poker mind is rickety
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03-15-2012 , 11:21 AM
Because a lot of our equity in this hand is fold equity
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03-15-2012 , 03:34 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jack&MarkGetBusy!
Collin advocates shoving all in here considering the hand is too strong to fold yet, there is still one person left to act and we will be OOP against at least three people if we call.
If you just make a standard re-raise, other players will have pretty good odds to call in position, so it's likely to remain multiway. Then you'll be playing an even bigger pot out of position, which is even worse than just calling. Shoving maximises fold equity, as King spew mentioned.
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03-15-2012 , 05:30 PM
Assume you are playing a 6 MAX game and you are UTG with AK preflop. You do a pot raise and a NIT 3bets on the BTN. Do you 4bet, fold, or shove all-in?
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