$600NL - Heads Up!
2008 was shaping up to be a huge year. In the first four months, I topped 2007 in terms of total earnings. I was playing mostly 600, and dropping to 400 when the game selection wasn't so good. I did start dipping into $5/10NL, but the tables weren't up to standard (ie. I couldn't beat the regs badly enough to make up for lack of fish), so I focused on dominating $600NL.
I had touched on playing some HU NLHE, mostly at the 400 level on iPoker, so when I found my winrate starting to stabilize at 600, it was again time for a change: for the first time, I started sitting alone first at $400NL waiting for HU games, and then once I was back to the comfort level I had had at iPoker, I started playing 600 HU regularly. I kickstarted my research on HU cash games on 2+2, and, not finding much material, I turned to Cardrunners videos for instruction. I realized very quickly that CR is a gold mine. For $30 a month, I could get fully detailed instructions on HU poker from guys who were making 7-figures a year. This was definitely the best investment I've ever made, including Poker Tracker, HEM, and especially that RRSP I liquified (with penalties) when I went pro.
To paraphrase several CR pros: the biggest money, and the highest winrates in poker, are achieved playing heads-up. In a ten-handed game, your edge is limited by card distribution. You just cannot play more than 25-30% of your dealt hands and expect a profit. Furthermore, if you're playing 28% VPIP ten-handed, you probably aren't taking too many of these hands past the flop. In short, you have to wait for your cards to some degree. Now, in heads-up poker, you're going to have the best hand 50% of the time. Always keep that mathematical fact in mind. If your opponent has taken down 40 of the last 50 pots against you, he is outplaying you, and you must adjust... UNLESS, as an extreme example, he's open-shoved the last 20 hands with a deep stack, and you're simply waiting for a hand better than Queen-high to call him with. Conversely, if you're opponent is folding his big blind too often, crank up your stealing range and just chop him down until he does something about it! Steal with any two cards, but fold a hand once in a while, just not to piss him off, because NOBODY is going to let you take every single hand for too long.
Playing heads-up, it is less about the cards and more about detecting exploitability in your opponent's patterns. A very loose/very tight opponent PF is just one example of strategic considerations... however, it's a big one. Find your opponent's biggest and most exploitable mistakes FIRST. If he is a big fish and playing every hand, for any raise size PF, for example, then your turn and river play become microscopic in terms of importance. Assuming full stacks, and he's been calling every single raise PF, start raising bigger. Make it 5x with big hands, and then if he calls, try 8-9x. Seriously. If he's the type that min-raises every button, 3bet him huge. Playing 5/10, if he makes it 20, make it 115 or more with a monster. If he's the type that constantly mini-3bets your opens... 4bet HUGE. You open to 30 with JJ, he makes it 50 for the 4th or 5th time in 30 minutes... make it 333. These types HATE to fold to a re-raise if they have already raised it themselves. Of course, these strategies only work against the worst of HU players, but if I can find them at MSNL, I know they're crawling all over the micro-stakes games. This is just a small part of HU strategy, but it's probably not a strategy you've read about in a book. My point, as always, is to maximize EV by creative thinking.
My routine in Spring 2008 became to scan the 6max and full-ring games for good tables, and then either play them, or open up some HU tables and sit alone. My personal policy for playing HU is: play anybody if I'm not playing any other tables (except someone who I know will crush me). If I'm playing other, more profitable tables, I admit I will often sit out of a HU game (always give up a HU table if you refuse action and they request the table) against TAGs and fish alike. I also never play more than two different opponents HU at once... these games require a lot more attention than any other, because as I said, they are based less on cards, and more about the way your opponent plays and the game flow, and to get a feel for these things, you need all your focus. So, when I have a good HU game and a couple of 6max tables going, I will not take on a second HU game against a TAG, where my EV is probably between -2 and +2BB/100. I wouldn't recommend anybody else play more than one or two HU games at a time either, unless you don't mind mediocre winrates... and by now you know that I do
More coming, and I'd like feedback on that hand I posted earlier.