If you're not deeply attached to Canada, for this amount of money you're talking here, it might be worth getting some expert advice on how/where to move to lower the tax bill further.

Age - 26
Country you live in - USA
Income - 60k, should be around 70k in 10 months or so. Expect to be making 100k before 30.
Risk Tolerance - Medium to High
Debt - None
Credit - Have around 100k CC limit spread over about 5 cards right now

So right now my allocations are:
Cash ~ 25k in a high interest savings account
ETF's/Stocks/Mutual Funds ~ 23k
Crypto ~ 3.5k
Roth IRA ~ 19k
401k ~ 15k

I'm already maxing my roth by contributing $458 each month and because I currently have no living expenses i'm able to save another 2k on top of that which I've been primarily putting into crypto recently and the high interest savings account for a downpayment on a house-hack or rental property.

My goal is to retire when I'm 40-45. Does it makes sense to go through the REI route and start buying SFH and Multifamily homes to build up my net worth? Right now until my income bumps up a little bit i'll only be able to buy around 1 property per year which is fine, but i'd like to scale a little bit faster once I switch jobs and work less hours.

Any other alternatives I should be looking at? I'm in a situation since I don't have to pay rent that I can take some more risks right now as well

Do you like the idea of buying yourself a second job?

If it’s going to help me quit my normal day job eventually, yes

Your day job is worse than property management?

I'm trying to think of one that is worse... Are you the guy who has to help elephants who have a fecal impaction?

What's wrong with PM?

I sit behind a desk looking at spreadsheets for 70 hours a week, sounds much better

A partial list:

People who don't own your house will act like they don't own it.

Collecting rent sucks.

Finding tenants sucks.

Keeping good tenants is impossible. The ****ty ones will be the ones who want to stay.

If a tenant doesn't pay rent, it costs money to evict them and they will **** up your SFH while they are there and there is nothing you can do about it.

Leverage kills you if anything goes badly.

Figure out how to automate things and cut your hours in half.

My grandfather owned a four family unit in Queens, NY. It probably took off years of his life towards the end. And he was even lucky that he didn't have high turnover, and his tenants were not that bad.

I'm having trouble pulling out large amounts of crypto per day /week /month while it continues to Flux up and down.

Anyone have advice on getting larges amount quickly when I need to pull the trigger?

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Do you actually own them, or are you owning them by proxy on an exchange?

I own them outright. 100k per person is the best I've found. Once a certain price point is hit I need to sell /buy quickly in much longer amounts.

It's already cost me quite a bit bit when btc was hovering around 20k.

In the little information I've found people have mentioned exchanges are the only (best?) way to do this but I don't know where to start and who to trust.

Any information is greatly appreciated

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Just transfer them to coinbase for a 20% haircut. If you own a huge amount, you can talk them down. That would be best.

Q about paying off loans vs investing.

Have a 120k 10 yr loan at 6% interest (tried to refinance and I'm getting roughly the same rate so that's not an option.)

The question is whether I should be aggressively trying to pay off that loan or max out all my investment accounts (401k, Roth IRA for me and wife = ~$30k per year) and then pay off that loan with remaining amount.

Currently I'm loading 401k upto max employer match (roughly 4k from my end and 2k employer match.) I tried to do the math to figure out what the best decision is, but wasn't able to figure it out.

Fwiw, if I go my current route of aggressively paying off my loan, I'll pay off loan in 1.5 years.

My order would be:

#1 - Max out all employer match opportunities for sure.
#2 - I personally would max out all tax advantaged options (401k pre-tax/roth, Roth/Traditional IRA's, HSA) This assumes you are investing the money in an intelligent way and not letting it sit in cash.
#3 - Pay off the loan as aggressively as possible.
#4 - Taxable account investing.

#2 and #3 are likely pretty close, so if you decide to do #3 before #2, you aren't making a mistake. What type of loan is it? If you can deduct the interest, that favors #2.

Student loan so yes I'm able to deduct the interest.

This past year I chose #1 and then #3 and I started to wonder if doing #2 was a better option. If I open a Traditional IRA and max out $11k for me and wife, I'll basically be paying 5% federal tax (and live in a no-state tax).

I know I still have the option of opening an IRA and getting the tax benefits for 2017, but if I choose that option, do I then also have the option of maxing out Roth/Traditional IRA for 2018 (so $11k for '17 and $11k for '18 + 401k of $18k?). Researched online but wasn't able to figure out an answer to above question.

Also, given that my tax rate is so low right now, I should opt for maxing out Roth IRA for '18 and Traditional for '17 (assuming they let me do both since Traditional for '17 is only option I have.)

Yes, you can do full 2017 IRA contribution AND 2018 IRA contribution RIGHT NOW. The 2017 window closes on the day your tax return is due.

If you are paying 5% federal tax, you should do Roth 100% for all of it you can. Did you make too much money in 2017 to do Roth? You should check with your company to see if you can do 401k deferrals as Roth too.

No, I just decided to pay off my loan hardcore rather than contributing to Roth in 2017.

For the full 2017 IRA contribution, that can only be in a traditional IRA and I can't do Roth IRA right? For 2018 I'll max out the Roth IRA contribution.

Yeah I only expect to have the 5% tax rate for just 2017 and expect to be a lot higher for 2018 so it sucks that I didn't think it through and max out Roth for both IRA as well as 401k deferral as Roth since my company lets me do that as well.

You can still do Roth for 2017 as long as you didn't file your tax return showing traditional contributions.

If your tax rate is that low and you happen to have other traditional IRA assets, you might consider doing a Roth conversion on those too.

I recently changed jobs and have ~$150k in an tradIRA, rolled over from my prior 401k to invest. I'm a big believer in buy-and-forget, and have most of my other money in VYM and VBR.

What I want to do is buy just a handful of low cost funds and then forget about it until I can pull it out in 30 years.

Left to my own devices I would probably just stick if all in VYM and forget about it, but I've never had this much cash to invest before and think I should at least be moderately diversified. My earning power is fairly good and it's a long time horizon so I'm OK with medium-high level of risk.

Honestly, just buy a Target Date Fund.

Second option would be to buy a simple 3 or 4 fund portfolio and choose your mix of US vs. Intl and Equity vs. Bonds.

I definitely personally wouldn't just throw it into VYM and/or VBR.

I mean you’ll come out fine with vym or vbr too but I’d just dump it in vtsax or vfiax, those will be most +EV

Do what jalexand42 said. A low expense target date fund will do all of the work for you (no need to worry about rebalancing, etc.), so you can actually really set and forget.

The bolded above almost brought a tear to my eye, btw. You know how at the end of a movie where it is clear that the protagonist is going to be alright and you tear up? That is how I felt.

Well checking VBR and VYM performance. They seem to track the S&P 500 pretty much. With a 30 year holding period I'd just leave it there or get a etf/fund that tracks the S&P 500. This pretty much explains why:

Capital Asset Pricing Model

You may not be interested but it does diversification if you decide to read it.

Location: USA
AGE: 50, single / no kids
INCOME: zero (recently retired)
RISK TOLERANCE: Low
TIMEFRAME: Long term
DEBT: Zero

Balance in checking accounts & money markets: a little over $1.3M
Roth IRA: $58,000 cash
Traditional IRA: $43,000 cash
Cash: $365,000
Metals: a little over $500,000 at current prices

I have no money invested in stocks or bonds--everything is in checking & savings accoutns and money markets. Yes, I know I'm an idiot and missed a tremendous bull market; that said, I'm concerned about beginning to dollar cost average into the market now, after such a huge run-up.

My monthly expenses are about $3,750, but if I could generate some extra "fun" money, that would be great. I am not interested in getting a part-time job or side-hussle.

Ideally I'd like my money to safely generate an annual income of $75,000 to $100,000 without much oversight or management from me (thus not currently interested in investing in income-producing property).

Price of Cucamonga,

You are asking for a way to "safely" earn a 10.3% return (75k - 100k) on your investment after taxes. This is not likely to be possible.

Also, having most of your wealth invested in metals is absurd and, I think, completely crazy.