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05-17-2024 , 11:30 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by PointlessWords
It sounds made up to me.


But this quote is also in there

“ over limping 22-44 in GTO in the CO has the same EV as raising 2.5x! Check GTO Wizard”

Wouldn’t you get 2.5x the EV?
No it's a mixed strategy in a solver so it's the same EV. This is what I'm talking about. At equilibrium it's the same but no one plays like this so we raise instead to gain more EV from fish.
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05-17-2024 , 11:49 AM
So you’re saying the authors used the solver to determine the 2x increase in EV?
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05-17-2024 , 01:11 PM
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Originally Posted by PointlessWords
So you’re saying the authors used the solver to determine the 2x increase in EV?
No because you can't use solvers for multiway pots (maybe simple 3 way but 4 way+ solvers aren't around to my knowledge).

They are guesstimating based on what they know about fish.
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05-17-2024 , 01:18 PM
It should be pointed out that playing GTO poker does NOT guarantee you will break even if the game is unfair, asymmetrical, OR THE POT IS RAKED. If there is a rake, GTO can only guarantee that your loss will not be bigger than what is taken out of your pots. In 100 hands of 1-3 poker that figures to be 10-15 big blind1. Even more in 1-2. This is probably why that Bart fellow said that the rake made those games worthless. If you are partially relying on GTO to make you money, your opponents have to be quite bad.

But here is the thing. While both exploitive and GTO play do better and better as opponents play worse and worse, the growth of your results is higher if the play is exploitive. In other words, if perfect opponents result in GTO losing 12 bb/100 while your loss rate is 18/ bb if you try to play exploitively, very good games might only add 20 bbs to the GTO player while adding 30bb to the smart exploiter. GTO would net 5bb, while exploiter nets 12.

The bottom line is that in order to make any money at these small games, you have to be finding really good ones and then play in a style that is often quite different than GTO and is in fact a style that would get you beaten rather badly if you tried it in merely mediocre games.
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05-17-2024 , 01:27 PM
I understand that’s the premise of your book and that you guesstimated / made up a lot of these theories. My question is, what if you’re wrong? What if GTO makes more than exploitative ?
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05-17-2024 , 01:36 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by PointlessWords
I understand that’s the premise of your book and that you guesstimated / made up a lot of these theories. My question is, what if you’re wrong? What if GTO makes more than exploitative ?
The GTO Framework doesn't even exist in low stakes live games because of preflop. If you look at a 9 handed solver on GTO Wizard there is 0% limping so once someone limps the framework falls apart.



GTO is just an idea, it's something to be measured against so you have a benchmark. It's not to be taken literally almost ever (only against world class opponents).
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05-17-2024 , 03:46 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by PointlessWords
I understand that’s the premise of your book and that you guesstimated / made up a lot of these theories. My question is, what if you’re wrong? What if GTO makes more than exploitative ?
If by "exploitive" you mean "properly exploitive" then it is logically impossible that GTO would make more. The world's biggest fans of GTO know this. There is a leak in your understanding.
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05-17-2024 , 04:05 PM
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Originally Posted by David Sklansky
If by "exploitive" you mean "properly exploitive" then it is logically impossible that GTO would make more. The world's biggest fans of GTO know this. There is a leak in your understanding.
I def didn’t mean properly or I would’ve written that. I am aware that not everyone can properly max exploit


Now ask yourself what’s easier to execute, GTO based strategy or exploitative strategy , which is why I asked


What if GTO style makes the player more than exploitative style?
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05-17-2024 , 04:33 PM
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Originally Posted by PointlessWords
Fact two, GTO isn’t designed to beat all styles of play is it? I thought it was designed to lose the least amount of money possible against opponent(s) GTO
No. Game theory is designed to maximize your minimum expectation or minimize your opponent's maximum expectation. While I tire of reading your posts, it's clear to me that there's much about poker / game theory that you're quite confused about. On the Internet you should look up and read about the minimax theorem / maximin principle and what a saddle point is.

Among our stuff, you should read the chapter "Betting and Game Theory" in my book Gambling Theory and Other Topics - Expanded Edition, much of the book The Intelligent Poker Player by Philip Newall, and the game theory discussions in David's book The Theory of Poker Applied to No-Limit.

I assume you've at least looked at Matt Janda's books. If you haven't spend some time with them as well.

Mason
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05-17-2024 , 04:40 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by PointlessWords
I def didn’t mean properly or I would’ve written that. I am aware that not everyone can properly max exploit


Now ask yourself what’s easier to execute, GTO based strategy or exploitative strategy , which is why I asked


What if GTO style makes the player more than exploitative style?
Your question is similar to the question "what if the basic strategy in blackjack does better than someone who bases his strategy on card counting but doesn't do it expertly".

My answer to both is "if the player often strays too far from basic strategy when he shouldn't, he will do worse. But only if his straying is sometimes quite bad. If his straying is done only when it is obvious that he should, and he otherwise plays close to GTO or basic strategy, he will of course do better. And if the opponents are really bad that will be most hands. Just like it would be if the dealer hit up to 18.
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05-17-2024 , 04:41 PM
Card counting one way versus card counting another is not a good analogy for playing exploitative or GTO

It’s basically Bart Hanson style versus winning 500z style.


Minimize your opponents max expectation sounds like “lose the least” to me.

Your opponents expectation is how much you lose

Minimizing how much you lose=trying to lose the least imo

Last edited by PointlessWords; 05-17-2024 at 04:50 PM.
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05-17-2024 , 04:58 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by PointlessWords
Minimize your opponents max expectation sounds like “lose the least” to me.

Your opponents expectation is how much you lose

Minimizing how much you lose=trying to lose the least imo
Like I say, you have very little understanding of how GTO poker actually works. Also, you left out the other side of the maximin principle which is to maximize your minimum expectation.

This stuff is all on the Internet, you should spend some time reading it as well as the other references I suggested.
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05-17-2024 , 06:02 PM
Could be!
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05-18-2024 , 03:06 AM
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Originally Posted by DooDooPoker
I'm going to copy/paste my notes on this book and give my review at the end.

1. Limping first in - important.

1A. Buying in for the minimum to have an advantage over larger stacks!

1B. In a typical $1/$2 live game - we should be opening $6 preflop as a default!

2. Short term tilt is an important concept

3. over limping 22-44 in GTO in the CO has the same EV as raising 2.5x! Check GTO Wizard

4. Page 14 - GTO can be essentially memorized and does not take as much talent as
exploitative play. This statement is not correct, no one is memorizing full GTO game trees, especially river nodes.

5. page 52. No calling it's either a check or raise. Bad wording

6. Page 55. Don't cbet vs the non bluffer! fold to his turn bet. Very important.

7. Page 56. You can fold A3cc on A96r OTF against weak player!

8. **How do you identify a non bluffer? Player profile - how long does it take you to identify a non bluffer?**

9. Being 9 handed vs 6 handed encourages limping. Difference between online vs live play

1. Isolation Raises - 3 reasons to make them:
A. If you're in late position
B. Opponents make big mistakes post flop
C. Players who may fold preflop when they play well postflop


2. Small raise with hands like 98s and 55 to sweeten the pot over limpers. If a hand makes money when it
limps, it reasons that it should make about double the money when you raise 2x.

3. Understanding rake, you want more players in the pot! On average we don't want to raise limpers
with mediocre hands, only hands that play well multiway.


4.Page 99: "When opponents almost never bluff, you should fold more often against them than against
others postflop. That's obvious. But you do that after the first round (preflop). Before the flop, you should
fold less often because of the extra edge you'll be playing with."

5.Page 121. Min betting (betting the size of the big blind when checked too). Range composition
should be great hands or poor but not hopeless hands!

Example 1:

We overlimp 87o OTB, flop comes AJ7r - checked to us. Considering min betting instead of checking back!

Example 2:

Raised MW pot and are OTB with FD. Checks to us - we can consider min betting so we don't get bet out
of the pot OTT. Exploit vs both Regs and Fish because if you nodelocked a sim to us doing this the OOP
players would have to develop significant donking ranges to counter our strategy and they won't do that.


Example 3:

MW pot OTB with 99 on K95r - min bet works well here. Question for the authors: Would you not min bet on FD board? Ask him this
question page 123.


There's almost no SBvsBB HU spots because the vast majority of players chop here.

Online this is the highest EV spot to study. It has 100% practice priority but it is virtually non existent
in live games. This is one of the main reasons a lot of live players have difficulty transitioning to online
play. The highest EV spot online is a spot you have almost never been in!


Page 124-125: Rope-a-Dope play - Bet-->Call-->we XR. Overbluffed HU in X-XR!
I like that you add KK to the play because it protects you from observant opponents.

I'm predicting a lot of 1-3 star reviews on amazon out of 5 stars because this book is going to go over
most players heads. A lot of these plays are very good as exploits but your readers aren't going to
1) Understand theory well enough 2) Understand MDA and how people actually play this game


Live players will be too static in their strategy to appreciate this book and mediocre online players
will be too steeped in solver play. You need to understand MDA at a deep level to recognize how good
some of these plays are.

I think you guys both understand MDA (I know you don't call it that but we are talking about the same thing).
on a deep level except you learned it through trial and error instead of from a Database like you would online.


The preflop play is actually very very good. If most of your opponent's are fish you are supposed to limp
and over limp a lot. This strategy doesn't work online because usually there aren't more than 1 or maybe 2 fish per table and if the fish does limp you are incentivized to play him heads up and isolate him. Limping is also much better at 9-10 handed games vs 6 handed games because isolation plays have less success vs multiple opponents and the possibility of a limp-XR goes up. Again, online players who read this book will very likely misinterpret your reasoning here and claim "you don't understand the games," or "the games have passed you by" when ironically it is them who don't understand the adjustments.

This is coming from someone that has studied MDA at a high level for the past 30 months.

Live players may have the same fate as the online players because they are likely too static in their approach to the game and don't understand the theory part well enough to know why they are adjusting.

I'll give you an example: Your "wait for the aggro player to bet so that others call and you XR to fold out all the capped ranges OTT and the likely weak range of the aggro player is the exact same play as an online play when they XR your delayed cbet (HU). The X-XR-B line is weak precisely because of the reason you just stated, but it works because the delayed cbet is range is too weak to withstand multiple streets of aggression.

I like that you add the KK hand into that line as well because this will confuse observant opponents and make them doubt their read on you (It's why I reverse MDA lines against better competition).

I think you two might have underestimated how advanced this book is. To understand why these plays are good the reader is going to have to understand the logic behind the play. I don't think most readers will do that and because of this I think this will be your worst reviewed book ever, although it is probably your best. I'm looking at the Amazon reviews right now and I'm seeing a lot of 1-3 star ratings. I would lay a lot of money that they those readers don't understand most of the concepts laid out in this book and that the review is a reflection of this frustration and has nothing to do with the merit of the book. I can see the narrative being that David and Mason are getting senile in their old age and that the game has passed them by which really couldn't be further from the truth.

I plan on re-reading this book to fully grasp some of the plays since they will not work online (based on 6max vs 9-10 max dynamic and also fish are more aggro online than live)---->Actually a very important point. The psychology and shame of getting caught bluffing drastically reduces live bluffing relative to online bluffing. The player type of "non-bluffer" is almost non existent online. But will very likely be common when playing live.

1. Page 128. Early position raises and we just call in late position with TT. Flop comes 962r. If he bets
half pot we should raise for protection because if he comes over the top we will know he has JJ-AA and he
will fold out all overcards. Good play when deeper against weaker competition.

2. Profit from live small stakes NL comes from 2 areas:

A. Recognizing when to make unusually large bets against opponents who call too much.
B. Saving lots of money with with 3 types of folds.

1. The flop fold when your hand is good but not great.

2. The fold against a big bet that can't be a semi-bluff.

3. The early multiway fold when your opponent to the right of you bets.

Page 144: Be cautious when the hand you think your opponents are putting you on is close
to the hand you actually have. No matter how well you play or how good your hand is, you'll
not beat your game if your hand is often essentially face up.


Page 144: "If you flop top pair of kings down through jacks, you should usually bet if your kicker is smaller than your pair but often check if it's higher since hitting your kicker when it's the higher card may
result in a nice win from someone who would have folded but has now turned top pair.


Page 146: QJcc on A84r HU as PFR vs BB. You suggest checking as a default play to gain information on
your opponent. If he checks turn you delayed cbet. Question for the Authors: Are you betting river here as well if he x/c turn?

page 148: Reduce variance when you have a nut hand but your opponent has outs on you. Set vs Straight
Flush vs Ace of suit etc.

page 160: "The fact is that almost all bets, especially on the river in small stakes games, are not bluffs."
Much different online! They overbluff in a lot of nodes.

page 173: A9642 runout no flush. If you have A3o you should bet small (not theoretically correct - you rarely
bet 1/3 OTR when IP).

page 174: After x/c flop or turn - it is frequently correct to donk river rather than check to the bettor.
Donk spots include Flush complete turn/river and straight completing turn/river.

page 174: We call a preflop raise out of the big blind in a MW pot with ATcc. Flop comes Ts6h2h.Turn 9d and we x/c turn. If the river is a heart we should donk lead. For thin value? Most players will X back weak Tx so we need to develop xc/xc/donk range to get value from them.

Page 195: If you would have called that larger all-in bet, then it's almost always true you should move in
yourself, even if you think you're less than 50 percent to win. This prevents him from saving money on the river those times he has a draw or a weak hand and gives up without betting again - important concept. We are allowed to ship <50% equity hands OTT.

Overall I give this book a 5 out of 5 stars. And would highly recommend.

I also have some questions for the authors scattered throughout my notes.

hey man thank you for your writeup I appreciate it!
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05-18-2024 , 03:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Mason Malmuth
Going by memory, I don't think it says anything like this. Perhaps you can find the place and I'll take a look.

On page 62 it says:

We’re not sure why this happens but suspect that many players in these live small stakes games have a phobia about being “pushed around.” Or perhaps they are thinking “He would never actually raise this much with a great hand like aces or kings.” Maybe they are using the second reason as a rationalization when the first reason is the real culprit. In any case, you should seriously consider raising up to about ten times their initial raise with aces down through queens plus ace-king suited.

On page 68 it says:

Assuming average small stakes stack sizes, average small stakes opponents in terms of skill, an early position raiser, middle position for you, and no callers between you and the raiser, you should usually reraise to about three or four times the initial raise with AA, KK, and maybe QQ, JJ, and AK (suited or offsuit).

And on page 69 it says:

If his raise is more than about three or four times the big blind (when no one else is in) you need a better hand than usual to call. (Those calls would now include the bottom end of hands you might usually reraise with). If he’s raising limpers already in, you can stick to your normal calling requirements as long as his raise isn’t that much larger than normal. The hands that you reraise with should usually be aces or kings, and these hands should reraise big. Maybe even very big.

Mason
thank you, ive been hammering the preflop sections and reading it so I will continue to re read before moving forward imsre i havent gotten to the 3 bet or raising sections and to be honest, I prolly am a poor reader and haven't read as much as I am still in the first 50-60 pages

I appreciate your thoughts on the matter and so far think it is a really eye opening book and one that made me think very differently to expand my knowledge
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05-18-2024 , 02:20 PM
IMO, the ideas in the book are really good. Some of the specifics are weird, and sort of limit player style. For example, raising to 6 in 1/2 is sort of ridiculous, when people will treat a raise to 10 about the same as a raise to 6. If you raise to 6, you will probably get a significant percentage of 3!s, which are rare against a normal raise size.

Similarly, talk of mid-betting and doubling the limped bet to build the pot are limit poker style. You can bet small or raise small at limps, bit mid bets look just ridiculous in NL.

People tend to bet about pot in 1/2 and 1/3 in limped pot. I couldn't limp behind on the button with 87o or Q6s or whatever and find enough situations I could continue on postflop.

Making buying in for the minimum, making raise sizes that most limper will call and sometimes playing for a limp/3! seem really sound at low stakes, although not what is usually advised.
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05-18-2024 , 11:14 PM
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Originally Posted by deuceblocker
IMO, the ideas in the book are really good. Some of the specifics are weird, and sort of limit player style. For example, raising to 6 in 1/2 is sort of ridiculous, when people will treat a raise to 10 about the same as a raise to 6. If you raise to 6, you will probably get a significant percentage of 3!s, which are rare against a normal raise size.

Similarly, talk of mid-betting and doubling the limped bet to build the pot are limit poker style. You can bet small or raise small at limps, bit mid bets look just ridiculous in NL.

People tend to bet about pot in 1/2 and 1/3 in limped pot. I couldn't limp behind on the button with 87o or Q6s or whatever and find enough situations I could continue on postflop.

Making buying in for the minimum, making raise sizes that most limper will call and sometimes playing for a limp/3! seem really sound at low stakes, although not what is usually advised.

i think from what i gathered from them is that we are going to maker FAR FAR less mistakes than opponents post flop so building pots small and surely so when big hands develop we maxmize
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05-19-2024 , 09:06 AM
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Originally Posted by the pleasure
i think from what i gathered from them is that we are going to maker FAR FAR less mistakes than opponents post flop so building pots small and surely so when big hands develop we maxmize
Yeah, the ideas are good and sometimes original. However, I wouldn't take it as a manual and literally play the sizings, hand ranges, etc. they suggest.
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05-19-2024 , 12:21 PM
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Originally Posted by the pleasure
i think from what i gathered from them is that we are going to maker FAR FAR less mistakes than opponents post flop so building pots small and surely so when big hands develop we maxmize
Nope
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