As above says I'm just wondering should you keep the same brm if you play 15 tables as if you were playing 5? Hope I put this in the right spot but can't find an answer for brm when mass tabling. Thanks

Hi Guys,

I wonder if its just me.

Say I have a healthy 500 BI's roll for the 2.50 180 man. If and when I lose say 200 BI's it still affects me mentally, I know I have 300 BI's left but, what about when I lose 300/ 320/400/499 last BI got to hit. I know exaggerated for affect but my point is it is no good having the comfort of X BI's if a down swing does your head in. How do you guys deal with this spot.

SUMMARY:

I have the BI's. Losing them, tilt, what's the point of having the roll if it brings no comfort

Steve

If you're adding that many extra tables then your ROI will probably drop, because you cannot give as much attention to each decision and you will probably miss a few closer spots. But the idea is that you still get a better hourly despite a drop in ROI, because of the extra tables.

But as your ROI does drop then in theory, yes, you will need a bigger bankroll. There is no exact answer - basically your bankroll needs to be enough that you still feel completely comfortable even when you are on a large downswing, and this amount is different for everyone.

But your overall BRM strategy should still be the same, ie that your investment in any one game still should only be a fraction of 1% of your roll.

Learning to cope with downswings, and still playing your best game when on a downer, is part of the skillset required to succeed.

The whole point of a roll is that should insulate you from the need to worry, just accept that it's part of the journey.

If you let yourself go on raging monkey-tilt every time the results go a bit pear-shaped then it might not make a difference how big your roll is.

Cheers TT,

Its a strange one that I have to get sorted personally in my head and I accept the points you make. I don't tilt as such I just sigh a lot and see myself moving closer to the edge of the BR cliff

I do like the idea of having 400/500 BI's, if lose a proportion move down, I mean if you are losing close to half your BR, say 250 BI, you need to address the issue I suppose. If you did lose 500 BI's then poker is clearly not for you/me. Can you imagine how you would feel when you get to BI number 500, shudder.

Thanks again

Steve

Hello guys, do you think the $2.5 180man SnG are easier now with the new payout structure of 27 places, its ok to play those with $400-500 bankroll ? , I've played 1300 tournaments of $1 90man with 16%Roi, and 500 of $0.5 360 with 90%Roi , thanks

Not sure if they got easier, but they are still pretty easy and $400-$500 is enough if you don't play too many tables at once and try to improve and make correct decisions.

Given your stats you prolly can beat those games easily. Maybe start with 4-6 tables and once you start making money, you can increase the table amount. Just so that you won't go broke.

Just worry about making the best decisions time after time. There is no way you can overcome a downswing, just keep a good br management and be sure you keep improving your game.

yea like dguia said, dont focus on the money focus on the decisions your making. If you focus on money in poker it will drive you insane, make sure your making the right decisions and keep trying to improve and the money will follow

What kind of roi/income is reasonable to expect from a good tournament player.. massive field tournaments.

I just started playing them and I've played about 15 this weeks and I'm currently breakeven because I managed to get far itm in one of them but unfortunately it was the $4.4 $15k gtd and not the $11 60k gtd... these are the two ones I play but on sundays these become even better and it's 300k gtd and 30k gtd instead... i busted one time early and all other times I busted just at the bubble.

I read that some people say 20% roi is average but I'm not sure if they are talking about 180man or less.

It just seems like a super tiny roi and it's not worth to play tournaments if thats all you get.. because that means I only win 2.2 dollar for playing a 11 dollar tournament.. and these tournaments you have to be ready to play 6 hours at least.. and most times you sit there 3 hours at least.. bubble usually around 4 hours.

So 2.2 dollar for an entire day work.

even 100 dollar tournaments mean you just make 20 dollar entire day..
and 100 dollar tournaments require insane big bankroll.

And if you have bankroll to play 1000 dollar tournaments you dont even need to bother playing poker anymore haha.

If you want to make money playing poker then aim to increase tables as you get better. You should be looking to play 33-100 or more tourneys per day.

As for ROI, it depends on the format:

Slow blind levels = higher ROI
Turbo = lower ROI
Hyper = even lower ROI

But with turbos and hypers the hourly increases if you get good volume. Such as playing $2.5 180-mans you can play like 100-300 a day...

"even 100 dollar tournaments mean you just make 20 dollar entire day.." if you play 10 of these then it's $200 per day on average, kind of.

Best thing you can do is to study poker a lot and get good at it fast and increase tables fast if you can afford it and play tons and still make time for studying. Another thing is that try not to play those large field tournaments unless you want to try once a week, other times you should play 360-1000 caps and 180-mans if you want to make money fast. If you play 1-2 large fields a day, you might not get a good score even in a full year, just waste of time.

thanks for the reply miducharme!
multitabling is a big problem for me..
I dont know how its possible to actively pay attention to how allplayers are playing.. getting reads.. seeing what they bet different bet sizes with.. what they check-call.. check raise.. etc.. simply impossible.. if I play multitables then I will be a robot playing some kind of default strategy standard abc or something without reads.. except stats.

Maybe it's possible to multitable if I play hyper because then its best to play like a robot and just use a push/call chart.

When you multitable, it's like an exchange of ROI for better hourly, meaning your ROI goes down because you can't possibly take advantage of every possible situation where you can earn a chip, + the mistakes that you do brings your ROI down but hourly increases as you play more tables.

Before you play too many tables, you should be a decent player by then and when you start making money, you increase tables to where you feel comfortable and continue learning, because even if you play 10 tables at a time, there are many ways you can increase your ROI = ways to make more chips to build a stack. But on the other hand when you get far in tourney, you can pay more attention to that one while you pay a bit less attention to tourneys that aren't as far OR at the end of the session when you have only few tourneys left that are quite far, you can pay more attention at that point.

Start with small field tourneys though because you make money faster that way in general, and add one more table when you have a bigger bankroll and feel comfortable, and just try to use every spot you see. (this requires studying, to know the spots that are profitable).

You can play some 27-45-90-180 tourneys, the regular speed if you want a better ROI, and see where you get with those.

Thanks again!
I will meditate on this over the night

Which is tougher, 8s or 3.5rs? At the moment I'm combining 8s and some 2.5s... Basically wondering if it's more profitable to play 3.5s than 8s.

Thanks

8s are a lot tougher than 3.50s in my experience. I would recommend the 3.50s to anyone who has the bankroll. Deeper stacks and rebuy means less variance than 8 freezeout. All regs have greater profit at the 3.50s.

My goal is to start the new year with a roll to play 8s and 3 rebuys...and gold star status

Hello,

My question is what BR one need to start 180 2.5$ turbo. I know it depends, but what would be default.

Thanks.

Depends if you can reload if you go bust, if you can reload I would just start with $150-$200 and try to get off to a good start.

If you don't want to reload then i would suggest $500-$750 would be ok.

This is a downswing. 18, 45, 180 turbos, 7,15,30$ buyinn


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Or just bad play overall. So many things what these EV line's don't count just example your imago what can make other players to make -EV calls against you. If you would play same opponent everytime (like heads up) then I would give more credit for it but now it's not near accurate.

I used to think 300bi bankrolls for 180s were BS, but now I'm on a 150bi over 350 game downswing I am starting to believe folks!

u need 1000 buyins really, im sure the regs must have 2-3000 buyins just for sanity sakes

8s and 15s are much much tougher because most mediocre regs learned proper push-fold ranges by now, and more often than not end-game is very shallow so variance is higher.

3$r you can still beat a lot of regs in deeper stacked end-game and you can easily accumulate like 10k stack before add-on just by playing ABC versus lagtarded donks.

Hi guys,

I love playing tournament poker but the games for $0.50 90man are too little.

Should I grind cash games first and then play the $2.50 180man which seems to be faster?

I am really motivated to put in volume but there are not much games for me to do so.