Yanked my chain hoist back up to the rafters of my shop. It's a great hoist that my brother got for me, old style but works very well. Useful note is that fan belts work very well for lifting straps and hanging straps, as long as you aren't lifting anything too heavy. Back yard mechanic trick. You can also use multiple ones, especially for hanging your lifting rigging for extra heavy loads. Just lifting my tractor mower as I'm replacing all the cutting blades.
The hoist will also work well for cleaning/cutting up the bull elk I hope to get this fall.
Still too cool to plant my garden but have all the seeds and plants ready to go in. Did add a few new blueberry and strawberry plants last week.
ditch the belts and use chain. unless you are looking to be crushed.
dem rafters arent built to be pulled in that direction. dont use too much weight or you may be wearing a roof.
nice shop and good lighting. the hole under the metal door helps with the light as well. good thinking.
Ok, old buddy - listen up and listen up good: That ain't a hole under the door, it is a slight gap caused by the door being old and out of proper alignment and slightly bent. That happens after 30 years of use. It can readily be fixed by adding thin rubber or foam to the bottom for a better seal (wind with rain makes a wet floor). I'll get to when I get to it. In the meantime, during a full moon, I get free eerie lighting seeping in under the bay door.
Good idea on the chain and I was ahead of you on that. The fan belts worked fine for the light weigh tractor mower. A temp measure. Anyway, I now have a stout chain holding up the hoist, and I added cushion strapping to the rafter to protect it from rubbing by the chain. I also added three bracing 2x4's tying beams to roof rafters and also beefed up the joist ends with added joist hangers. I could lift a boat with that hoist now. Or at least a hefty V8 Detroit Diesel engine.
And it is all to engineering specs. Never mess with a scientist, Ray. We know it all.
Also re-tilled my garden and added some bark mulch. It is now ready for planting which will be done very soon. Thusly: Three varieties of potatoes, two varieties of Swiss chard, peas, carrots, three varieties of onions, beets (mainly for greens), and tomatoes, both yellow pear and regular big beefy red tomatoes. Already have lots of strawberry and blueberry and raspberry plants from last year with a few additions this year.
No squash or pumpkins or corn or green beans.
My gravenstein apple tree just started blooming. Them's damn good apples.
Garden planted. Glad that is done. If anything grows I'll post a few pics.
Very Spring like weather, lots of rain showers and then short periods of sun. Not too much wind, yet. We get a north wind that blows fairly regularly starting late spring and lasting through much of the summer.
Continually fixing and doing maintenance etc., on the home/shop/property.
Cut down and cut up for firewood a myrtle tree that was too close to and shading my garden too much. It Needed to be cut before it got too big and would have been a problem falling without damaging the garden fence. As is it only cause some minor bending on the garden fence, easily fixed. My garden area now has a great deal more sunshine especially during the critical Spring months when soil temperature needs to increase for seed germination. I'm on the north slope of a ridge so it is the pits during the winter and early spring - hardly any direct sunshine.
For you crybabies and whiners and tree huggers you can come out and hold a candle light/prayer vigil for the poor little tree. Another victim to callus disregard for Global Warming. The Myrtle tree was also shading and crowding my redwood trees which I will hack down in a decade and sell the logs to a mill. Some sanctimonious liberal will buy the wood and make a redwood deck and picnic table out of it for their million dollar home along some California Beach.
Sick that in your pipe and smoke it you California Maggots.
I'm cutting and saving the stump section. The rest of the tree naturally divided and grew into three sections and was very bushy so no real log/wood potential other than firewood. But yeah I'll check to see if anyone likes the larger butt sections. I have many more myrtle trees that when, and if, I harvest them I will sell the wood for furniture making or turning etc. I gave some larger myrtle sections to John Austin up 101 a few years back. I still have two larger, thinner sections (3 inches thick) that I'm drying for a coffee table and end table.
Sold a good chunk of my Apple stock. $$$. Still have some as a reserve.
Garden is spouting - lots of onions and other stuff poking out of the ground. May get a bunch of strawberries this year. And blueberries.
Ordered a new front door for my house and ordered some top-grade roof coating to apply this summer. Thus I shouldn't have to worry about the roof at all, unless I live to be 90. Also plan on painting the house this year. It is a terrible dull red color. Thinking of a greenish/blue or some forest green color. Or perhaps sky blue. Or just go hot pink and destroy all pretense of being neighborly. Also need to put up a fence along the section by road. Will finish the survey of property tomorrow with surveyor.
Then I have to put up No Trespassing signs to keep out guys like Ray Zee. Lots of work this summer on the home and property. Then some work in the inside also. Never ends.
2017 ORS 105.700¹
Prohibiting public access to private land
• notice requirements
(1) In addition to and not in lieu of any other damages that may be claimed, a plaintiff who is a landowner shall receive liquidated damages in an amount not to exceed $1,000 in any action in which the plaintiff establishes that:
(a) The plaintiff closed the land of the plaintiff as provided in subsection (2) of this section; and
(b) The defendant entered and remained upon the land of the plaintiff without the permission of the plaintiff.
(2) A landowner or an agent of the landowner may close the privately owned land of the landowner by posting notice as follows:
(a) For land through which the public has no right of way, the landowner or agent must place a notice at each outer gate and normal point of access to the land, including both sides of a body of water that crosses the land wherever the body of water intersects an outer boundary line. The notice must be placed on a post, structure or natural object in the form of a sign or a blaze of paint. If a blaze of paint is used, it must consist of at least 50 square inches of fluorescent orange paint, except that when metal fence posts are used, approximately the top six inches of the fence post must be painted. If a sign is used, the sign:
(A) Must be no smaller than eight inches in height and 11 inches in width;
(B) Must contain the words “Closed to Entry” or words to that effect in letters no less than one inch in height; and
(C) Must display the name, business address and phone number, if any, of the landowner or agent of the landowner.
(b) For land through which or along which the public has an unfenced right of way by means of a public road, the landowner or agent must place:
(A) A conspicuous sign no closer than 30 feet from the center line of the roadway where it enters the land, containing words substantially similar to “PRIVATE PROPERTY, NO TRESPASSING OFF ROAD NEXT _____ MILES”; or
(B) A sign or blaze of paint, as described in paragraph (a) of this subsection, no closer than 30 feet from the center line of the roadway at regular intervals of not less than one-fourth mile along the roadway where it borders the land, except that a blaze of paint may not be placed on posts where the public road enters the land.
(3) Nothing contained in this section prevents emergency or law enforcement vehicles from entering upon the posted land.
(4) An award of liquidated damages under this section is not subject to ORS 31.725 (Pleading punitive damages), 31.730 (Standards for award of punitive damages) or 31.735 (Distribution of punitive damages).
(5) Nothing in this section affects any other remedy, civil or criminal, that may be available for a trespass described in this section. [1999 c.933 §1]
why dont you sell your house and buy a tent. you arent ever there anyway.
I'm here now!
Garden is looking good. Had to mow the damn lawn today and I have a big lawn. Selling the abode and taking my show on the road seems, at times, a fun fling. But you need a base to work from. And I have one. A firm footing and hideout is required especially when you are looking at the end times and there ain't that many more years to have fun.
Tour of grounds and abode and why I live in the best possible of all worlds in humble home and surroundings (note all the beautiful flowers and flowering shrubs):
Driveway to slumbering garage/woodshed
Part of expansive backyard, with lots of room to camp and/or park boat or trailer (the small green building is the bunkhouse):
More of the backyard with small trickling stream; shady area and bridge that leads to garden area and slope into the woods. Also view of back of house area with grill and covered patio and lots of flowers etc.
Across the bridge and up slope to the fenced garden area and the forested hill slope:
In the patio area the cat naps after killing all the mice and rats and moles.
I can drive just a few miles and have a brew outside on a deck with this grand view:
Camping in my backyard is free for Ray Zee, all others have to pay a minimum of $25 a night or $100 for five days. Cash only. All fly fisherman get a discount. Californians not welcome or allowed.