On the Road Indefinitely: A Dirtbag Hiker in the USA
06-28-2014
, 12:29 PM
Chasing Waterfalls
I’m making my way up north to do some hikes in the Adirondacks, Whites, and probably explore Maine a bit. Yesterday I stopped at Rickett’s Glen State Park in Pennsylvania for a short day hike. The hike was only about four miles but there were 20+ waterfalls along the way.
Starting at the Lake Rose Trailhead, I hiked a clockwise loop made by the Highland Trail and Falls Trail (map). It was well marked and very easy to follow. Also, the entire hike is in the shade which is always nice on a summer day. The scenery was pretty excellent; rocky (which Pennsylvania is notorious for), green, and wet. The Falls Trail follows a creek the entire time. There’s a bit of uphill and downhill, but I’d recommend the trail to anyone.
After the hike I made my way up to Ithaca, NY and spent most of the evening hanging out on the campus of Cornell University. It’s a beautiful campus. Too bad I was never smart enough to go there. I spent most of my time reading under a tree in what appeared to be a main common area (currently reading Player Piano by Kurt Vonnegut). Around 7pm a free concert started and I stayed and listened for a while before finding a place to catch some z’s.
I made the short drive to Syracuse, NY this morning. This place is a dump. I found a Planet Fitness and got a workout and shower in. I’m currently at the Syracuse University library, eager to make my way to the Adirondacks tomorrow morning.
Of course...
I’m making my way up north to do some hikes in the Adirondacks, Whites, and probably explore Maine a bit. Yesterday I stopped at Rickett’s Glen State Park in Pennsylvania for a short day hike. The hike was only about four miles but there were 20+ waterfalls along the way.
Starting at the Lake Rose Trailhead, I hiked a clockwise loop made by the Highland Trail and Falls Trail (map). It was well marked and very easy to follow. Also, the entire hike is in the shade which is always nice on a summer day. The scenery was pretty excellent; rocky (which Pennsylvania is notorious for), green, and wet. The Falls Trail follows a creek the entire time. There’s a bit of uphill and downhill, but I’d recommend the trail to anyone.
After the hike I made my way up to Ithaca, NY and spent most of the evening hanging out on the campus of Cornell University. It’s a beautiful campus. Too bad I was never smart enough to go there. I spent most of my time reading under a tree in what appeared to be a main common area (currently reading Player Piano by Kurt Vonnegut). Around 7pm a free concert started and I stayed and listened for a while before finding a place to catch some z’s.
I made the short drive to Syracuse, NY this morning. This place is a dump. I found a Planet Fitness and got a workout and shower in. I’m currently at the Syracuse University library, eager to make my way to the Adirondacks tomorrow morning.
Of course...
06-28-2014
, 05:57 PM
07-01-2014
, 02:51 PM
Cranberry Lake 50, Well 40
After Syracuse I went up to Watertown, NY for the night. I immediately noticed there was something different about this place: tattoos everywhere, rampant obesity, camouflage clothing, and long lines at the local Walmart. I soon learned I had entered an area known as "The North Country," and these people are basically New York's version of rednecks.
The next morning I made my way to the Burntbridge Pond Trailhead (right off Rt. 3, a couple miles past Cranberry Lake) to start the Cranberry Lake 50, a roughly 50 mile loop hike around Cranberry Lake and surrounding areas. It's pretty easy terrain so I planned this hike as a warm-up/gear test for some more difficult treks in the near future. And I'm glad I did because my water filter wasn't working. I had some purification tablets as a backup. Always bring a backup water purifying system, fire starter, and light. I carry a small bottle of purification tablets, book of matches, and small LED keychain light.
This hike was a bit of a yawner, but it had its moments. Most of the time you're walking through a big green tunnel. Every now and then you'll catch a glimpse of the lake, with only a few spots to stop right along the edge and go swimming. If you plan wisely you can camp right next to the lake, but there are only a handful of places to do that (which I took advantage of). What the hike lacked in scenery it made up for in solitude. I only saw 7 other people on the trail in the 3 days I was there.
One cool part about this hike is there are a number of beaver ponds you hike right past. I was a little surprised how much I enjoyed seeing them. One of them looked like a beaver had built the world's largest infinity pool.
I ended up cutting this hike short. I was getting eaten alive by bugs and I saw an opportunity to camp along side the lake if I took another trail that lopped off about 10 miles of the hike. I'd recommend this hike to anyone looking for some easy terrain; someone just getting into hiking that is a little intimidated by more challenging treks. Don't expect to be wowed, just think of it as a walk in the woods. If you're going to do this hike in the summer definitely be prepared for bugs. Bring the DEET, wear long pants, invest in a head net. Also, there's a side trip to a place called Cat Mountain that I'd recommend.
I'm currently at the Lake Placid Public Library. I'll probably walk down the street in a little bit to find a place to watch the USA World Cup game. Tomorrow, I'm heading into the High Peaks area of the Adirondacks for another 3-day trip. From there I'll probably hang out for a couple days in Burlington, VT. Will update when I can.
After Syracuse I went up to Watertown, NY for the night. I immediately noticed there was something different about this place: tattoos everywhere, rampant obesity, camouflage clothing, and long lines at the local Walmart. I soon learned I had entered an area known as "The North Country," and these people are basically New York's version of rednecks.
The next morning I made my way to the Burntbridge Pond Trailhead (right off Rt. 3, a couple miles past Cranberry Lake) to start the Cranberry Lake 50, a roughly 50 mile loop hike around Cranberry Lake and surrounding areas. It's pretty easy terrain so I planned this hike as a warm-up/gear test for some more difficult treks in the near future. And I'm glad I did because my water filter wasn't working. I had some purification tablets as a backup. Always bring a backup water purifying system, fire starter, and light. I carry a small bottle of purification tablets, book of matches, and small LED keychain light.
This hike was a bit of a yawner, but it had its moments. Most of the time you're walking through a big green tunnel. Every now and then you'll catch a glimpse of the lake, with only a few spots to stop right along the edge and go swimming. If you plan wisely you can camp right next to the lake, but there are only a handful of places to do that (which I took advantage of). What the hike lacked in scenery it made up for in solitude. I only saw 7 other people on the trail in the 3 days I was there.
One cool part about this hike is there are a number of beaver ponds you hike right past. I was a little surprised how much I enjoyed seeing them. One of them looked like a beaver had built the world's largest infinity pool.
I ended up cutting this hike short. I was getting eaten alive by bugs and I saw an opportunity to camp along side the lake if I took another trail that lopped off about 10 miles of the hike. I'd recommend this hike to anyone looking for some easy terrain; someone just getting into hiking that is a little intimidated by more challenging treks. Don't expect to be wowed, just think of it as a walk in the woods. If you're going to do this hike in the summer definitely be prepared for bugs. Bring the DEET, wear long pants, invest in a head net. Also, there's a side trip to a place called Cat Mountain that I'd recommend.
I'm currently at the Lake Placid Public Library. I'll probably walk down the street in a little bit to find a place to watch the USA World Cup game. Tomorrow, I'm heading into the High Peaks area of the Adirondacks for another 3-day trip. From there I'll probably hang out for a couple days in Burlington, VT. Will update when I can.
07-02-2014
, 02:00 AM
07-03-2014
, 07:33 AM
07-04-2014
, 01:35 PM
Adirondack High Peaks
I really liked the two-lane drive through all the lake towns in the northern Adirondacks. Tupper Lake, Saranac Lake, Lake Placid all seemed like awesome places to spend a summer, especially Lake Placid. I imagine living there all summer hanging out and teaching rich tourists how to kayak or stand up paddleboard would be the nuts.
The next hike on the list took me to the High Peaks area of the Adirondacks. There are 46 peaks in the Adirondacks higher than 4000 ft. (some just below 4000). They're known as 46ers, and I planned to climb a number of them this trip (Sawteeth, Gothics, Saddleback, Basin, Marcy, Blake, Colvin). I parked in a lot off Ausable Road, just off Route 73. I believe it's known at St. Hubert's. The hike starts with a 4 mile road walk down a dirt road through the woods, which eventually takes you to Lower Ausable Lake and the start of the trail.
Immediately you start climbing. And I mean climbing. For two miles you're basically going up a steep rock and root staircase. Early on you'll catch a glimpse of Rainbow Falls, but you won't catch another good view until you get to the top of Sawteeth, and it's a very good view. You get an opportunity to see the ridge you'll be hiking next.
The climb up that ridge becomes more rock and less root. When you get to the Gothics climb the route turns into massive slabs of rock most of the way up and down. It continues that way until you get down from Saddleback. At a few points there were cables and ladders to help, but most of the time I was on all fours climbing rock faces. It was much more technical than I expected. The ridge was very treacherous and I would only recommend it to experienced hikers. This might also be a rare time I say don't hike it alone. The risk of injury is very high. (Some of these photos might be stitched together poorly, I apologize)
After the exhausting day, I camped near the Slant Rock shelter that night and immediately started the climb up Marcy the next morning. This climb was far less treacherous than the climbs of the previous day. At one point the trees will clear and you'll see some large rocks, but this is only a heartbreaking false summit and Marcy is still towering over you. There's some exposure for a lot of the climb and descent around Marcy so use sun protection. You'll get a 360 view from the top. Anywhere you turn there are green mountains and hazy peaks for as far as the eye can see.
There is a long descent down Marcy and it gets even longer down Panther Gorge. At the lower elevation bugs become an issue. You'll reach a trail that will take you up the Colvin Ridge to climb Blake and Colvin. This is the cruelest climb in the entire world. For hours and hours you are climbing straight up, sometimes just to go straight down, and then straight up again. I recommend it to no one and wouldn't wish it on my worst enemy. I was drenched in sweat and smelled terrible. Bugs were still an issue. All I could think about was how great it would be to take a shower the next day.
After making it over the first peak on the ridge I hear a roll of thunder so long I thought for a second it might be a plane. It wasn't. I soon heard another. It sounded like it came from the south. I thought maybe it would pass by. Then another boom came from the west. Soon they came right above me.
There's a stillness in the woods when a thunderstorm is imminent. It's as if even the trees are aware of the looming danger overhead. The thunder kept rolling, getting even closer. Suddenly there's a crack and the sky opened up to pour sheets of freezing rain. There isn't much you can do when you're stuck in a thunderstorm on a ridge between to peaks. Your only option is to stay where you are and hope it's not your day to die. The booms and cracks are all around you. All you can to is stand there hopelessly. Minutes feel like hours. Eventually it begins to get quiet again. You realize the only raindrops falling are the ones that have lost their grips on the tree branches above. Is it over? Can I move now? Implying that somehow your stillness was keeping you safe. Then you remember what you said about the trees and stillness, and you laugh. It seems like somehow everything is smiling at you. It feels like that part in church where everyone turns to each other and says, "peace be with you." You get an immense feeling of gratitude. Never mind that you're soaked. Never mind that the rain is going to make your gear heavier. Never mind that the already hellish trail is going to be muddy and slick. You're alive. You put your pack on, starting walking, and can think of only one thing to say: I guess I don't need that shower anymore.
I made it down off Colvin Ridge later that evening, and I made it back to my car in one piece. I'm not ashamed to say the High Peaks got the better of me. Good game.
I really liked the two-lane drive through all the lake towns in the northern Adirondacks. Tupper Lake, Saranac Lake, Lake Placid all seemed like awesome places to spend a summer, especially Lake Placid. I imagine living there all summer hanging out and teaching rich tourists how to kayak or stand up paddleboard would be the nuts.
The next hike on the list took me to the High Peaks area of the Adirondacks. There are 46 peaks in the Adirondacks higher than 4000 ft. (some just below 4000). They're known as 46ers, and I planned to climb a number of them this trip (Sawteeth, Gothics, Saddleback, Basin, Marcy, Blake, Colvin). I parked in a lot off Ausable Road, just off Route 73. I believe it's known at St. Hubert's. The hike starts with a 4 mile road walk down a dirt road through the woods, which eventually takes you to Lower Ausable Lake and the start of the trail.
Immediately you start climbing. And I mean climbing. For two miles you're basically going up a steep rock and root staircase. Early on you'll catch a glimpse of Rainbow Falls, but you won't catch another good view until you get to the top of Sawteeth, and it's a very good view. You get an opportunity to see the ridge you'll be hiking next.
The climb up that ridge becomes more rock and less root. When you get to the Gothics climb the route turns into massive slabs of rock most of the way up and down. It continues that way until you get down from Saddleback. At a few points there were cables and ladders to help, but most of the time I was on all fours climbing rock faces. It was much more technical than I expected. The ridge was very treacherous and I would only recommend it to experienced hikers. This might also be a rare time I say don't hike it alone. The risk of injury is very high. (Some of these photos might be stitched together poorly, I apologize)
After the exhausting day, I camped near the Slant Rock shelter that night and immediately started the climb up Marcy the next morning. This climb was far less treacherous than the climbs of the previous day. At one point the trees will clear and you'll see some large rocks, but this is only a heartbreaking false summit and Marcy is still towering over you. There's some exposure for a lot of the climb and descent around Marcy so use sun protection. You'll get a 360 view from the top. Anywhere you turn there are green mountains and hazy peaks for as far as the eye can see.
There is a long descent down Marcy and it gets even longer down Panther Gorge. At the lower elevation bugs become an issue. You'll reach a trail that will take you up the Colvin Ridge to climb Blake and Colvin. This is the cruelest climb in the entire world. For hours and hours you are climbing straight up, sometimes just to go straight down, and then straight up again. I recommend it to no one and wouldn't wish it on my worst enemy. I was drenched in sweat and smelled terrible. Bugs were still an issue. All I could think about was how great it would be to take a shower the next day.
After making it over the first peak on the ridge I hear a roll of thunder so long I thought for a second it might be a plane. It wasn't. I soon heard another. It sounded like it came from the south. I thought maybe it would pass by. Then another boom came from the west. Soon they came right above me.
There's a stillness in the woods when a thunderstorm is imminent. It's as if even the trees are aware of the looming danger overhead. The thunder kept rolling, getting even closer. Suddenly there's a crack and the sky opened up to pour sheets of freezing rain. There isn't much you can do when you're stuck in a thunderstorm on a ridge between to peaks. Your only option is to stay where you are and hope it's not your day to die. The booms and cracks are all around you. All you can to is stand there hopelessly. Minutes feel like hours. Eventually it begins to get quiet again. You realize the only raindrops falling are the ones that have lost their grips on the tree branches above. Is it over? Can I move now? Implying that somehow your stillness was keeping you safe. Then you remember what you said about the trees and stillness, and you laugh. It seems like somehow everything is smiling at you. It feels like that part in church where everyone turns to each other and says, "peace be with you." You get an immense feeling of gratitude. Never mind that you're soaked. Never mind that the rain is going to make your gear heavier. Never mind that the already hellish trail is going to be muddy and slick. You're alive. You put your pack on, starting walking, and can think of only one thing to say: I guess I don't need that shower anymore.
I made it down off Colvin Ridge later that evening, and I made it back to my car in one piece. I'm not ashamed to say the High Peaks got the better of me. Good game.
07-04-2014
, 07:30 PM
07-06-2014
, 08:28 AM
Burlington and the 4th of July
No hiking in this one. Just wanted to do a quick update before I head into the White Mountains aka the Whites.
After the High Peaks, I woke up the next morning in a place called Ticonderoga, NY wondering if this is the place they make pencils (it's not). It took me a while to figure out how to cross into Vermont. There are barely any bridges in the entire northern section of the border and google maps wanted me to take a ferry. Eventually I made it to Burlington, VT.
I finally got that shower I was desperately hoping for and got a workout in as well. Afterwards I went to the University of Vermont to read a little. The place was dead so I ventured down the hill to downtown Burlington. It's a cool place, and it seems to have all types of people who call it home (at least for a day or two). It's got seniors and students, hippies and hipsters, transients and travelers, tie-dye and tired eyes. You see it all when you take a walk through the Church Street Marketplace.
I did some tourist stuff, then went to Battery Park in the evening and read a while, waiting for the sunset (finally finished Player Piano and loved it, might beat out Sirens of Titan for my favorite Vonnegut work. If Ted Kaczynski were a novelist, Player Piano would be what he'd write, and this came decades before him). Battery park looks out over Lake Champlain in what might be the best city view you'll ever see.
People came and went as the sun set. Eventually I was the only one left other than a straggler sitting alone on a bench. I asked him about fireworks and he said I was a day too late, Burlington does them on the 3rd every year for some reason. Happy 3rd of July Burlington. Lucky for us, all the towns across the lake in New York waited until the 4th. We caught maybe half a dozen firework shows. Of course they were miles away but it was clear enough to see small bursts of color all up and down the New York shoreline. He could name every town they were coming from. Soon the bursts of color were no more and I made my way back through downtown and up to campus to retrieve my car.
USA#1 FREEDOM AND STUFF
No hiking in this one. Just wanted to do a quick update before I head into the White Mountains aka the Whites.
After the High Peaks, I woke up the next morning in a place called Ticonderoga, NY wondering if this is the place they make pencils (it's not). It took me a while to figure out how to cross into Vermont. There are barely any bridges in the entire northern section of the border and google maps wanted me to take a ferry. Eventually I made it to Burlington, VT.
I finally got that shower I was desperately hoping for and got a workout in as well. Afterwards I went to the University of Vermont to read a little. The place was dead so I ventured down the hill to downtown Burlington. It's a cool place, and it seems to have all types of people who call it home (at least for a day or two). It's got seniors and students, hippies and hipsters, transients and travelers, tie-dye and tired eyes. You see it all when you take a walk through the Church Street Marketplace.
I did some tourist stuff, then went to Battery Park in the evening and read a while, waiting for the sunset (finally finished Player Piano and loved it, might beat out Sirens of Titan for my favorite Vonnegut work. If Ted Kaczynski were a novelist, Player Piano would be what he'd write, and this came decades before him). Battery park looks out over Lake Champlain in what might be the best city view you'll ever see.
People came and went as the sun set. Eventually I was the only one left other than a straggler sitting alone on a bench. I asked him about fireworks and he said I was a day too late, Burlington does them on the 3rd every year for some reason. Happy 3rd of July Burlington. Lucky for us, all the towns across the lake in New York waited until the 4th. We caught maybe half a dozen firework shows. Of course they were miles away but it was clear enough to see small bursts of color all up and down the New York shoreline. He could name every town they were coming from. Soon the bursts of color were no more and I made my way back through downtown and up to campus to retrieve my car.
USA#1 FREEDOM AND STUFF
07-07-2014
, 12:33 AM
07-08-2014
, 08:19 AM
The Pemigewasset Loop (Pemi Loop)
My first trip into the Whites took me to the infamous Pemi Loop. It’s a 32-mile loop that climbs eight 4000+ ft. peaks (Flume, Liberty, Lincoln, Lafayette, Garfield, South Twin, Bond, Bondcliff). I planned to hike it in two days, but some brave souls do it in just one. Backpacker.com rated it America’s 2nd hardest dayhike.
I started at the Lincoln Woods Visitor Center, just east of Lincoln, NH. The first mile and a half or so you’re on a nice flat trail until you get to the Osseo Trail to start climbing Mt. Flume. Despite the big elevation change, this was a very easy climb. It’s slow and steady almost the whole way up and the terrain is pretty painless. I flew up Mt. Flume in no time and stopped for only a second before I continued on to Mt. Liberty. The cool thing about this trail is it is always really easy to spot the next few peaks or ridges you have to climb.
The Liberty climb felt just as easy as the Flume climb and soon the trees cleared to show the most awesome stretch of trail of the entire trip. From the Lincoln climb, all the way to the Lafayette descent, the ridge is bare and you get amazing views the entire way. The whole time you feel like you’re walking on top of the world. I must have taken 50 pictures of this stretch alone.
It was getting late in the day when I made my way down Lafayette. I hadn’t hit the trail until 11am that morning. I knew it was time to find a place to camp, unfortunately everyone ahead of me knew that as well. I wanted to camp just below Garfield. I kept telling myself, “camp at the next good spot you see.” I only saw three good spots before the Garfield climb, and all three were already taken. I ended up climbing Garfield and breaking one of my major rules: don’t ever pay to sleep. I shelled out $8 to camp at the Garfield Shelter with a bunch of Appalachian Trail thru hikers. It had bear boxes and a privy, which is always nice, but I was still a little mad at myself.
The next day started early. Afternoon thunderstorms were in the forecast and I wanted to make it up and over Bondcliff before then. Lucky for me this day was a breeze once I made the difficult climb up South Twin. South Twin had some great views, but the highlight of the day was definitely the Bonds (Bond and Bondcliff). There’s another awesome ridge hike between the two and Bondcliff has some pretty spectacular cliffs hanging out over the edge of the world. Stay clear of the edge when the wind is gusty. I don’t know what Jack Kerouac was talking about, you can absolutely fall off a mountain.
It was pretty smooth sailing down from Bondcliff. The terrain was a little jagged at the top but smooths out the further down you go. There’s a very long flat walk along the Wilderness Trail back to Lincoln Woods. I ended up not making it back before the rain started. I got dumped on for the last few miles, but I was all the way down the mountain and out of harm’s way.
Taking a day off today. I have a couple injuries to attend to. I won’t be 100% tomorrow but I should be well enough to start another hike. I of course want to do a Presidential Traverse while I’m here but the planning is a little difficult with just one car. I’m considering making it the second day of an overnight trip, with the first day being in the Carter Range. It’s still up in the air. I’ll get it figured out today and post a TR when the time comes.
My first trip into the Whites took me to the infamous Pemi Loop. It’s a 32-mile loop that climbs eight 4000+ ft. peaks (Flume, Liberty, Lincoln, Lafayette, Garfield, South Twin, Bond, Bondcliff). I planned to hike it in two days, but some brave souls do it in just one. Backpacker.com rated it America’s 2nd hardest dayhike.
I started at the Lincoln Woods Visitor Center, just east of Lincoln, NH. The first mile and a half or so you’re on a nice flat trail until you get to the Osseo Trail to start climbing Mt. Flume. Despite the big elevation change, this was a very easy climb. It’s slow and steady almost the whole way up and the terrain is pretty painless. I flew up Mt. Flume in no time and stopped for only a second before I continued on to Mt. Liberty. The cool thing about this trail is it is always really easy to spot the next few peaks or ridges you have to climb.
The Liberty climb felt just as easy as the Flume climb and soon the trees cleared to show the most awesome stretch of trail of the entire trip. From the Lincoln climb, all the way to the Lafayette descent, the ridge is bare and you get amazing views the entire way. The whole time you feel like you’re walking on top of the world. I must have taken 50 pictures of this stretch alone.
It was getting late in the day when I made my way down Lafayette. I hadn’t hit the trail until 11am that morning. I knew it was time to find a place to camp, unfortunately everyone ahead of me knew that as well. I wanted to camp just below Garfield. I kept telling myself, “camp at the next good spot you see.” I only saw three good spots before the Garfield climb, and all three were already taken. I ended up climbing Garfield and breaking one of my major rules: don’t ever pay to sleep. I shelled out $8 to camp at the Garfield Shelter with a bunch of Appalachian Trail thru hikers. It had bear boxes and a privy, which is always nice, but I was still a little mad at myself.
The next day started early. Afternoon thunderstorms were in the forecast and I wanted to make it up and over Bondcliff before then. Lucky for me this day was a breeze once I made the difficult climb up South Twin. South Twin had some great views, but the highlight of the day was definitely the Bonds (Bond and Bondcliff). There’s another awesome ridge hike between the two and Bondcliff has some pretty spectacular cliffs hanging out over the edge of the world. Stay clear of the edge when the wind is gusty. I don’t know what Jack Kerouac was talking about, you can absolutely fall off a mountain.
It was pretty smooth sailing down from Bondcliff. The terrain was a little jagged at the top but smooths out the further down you go. There’s a very long flat walk along the Wilderness Trail back to Lincoln Woods. I ended up not making it back before the rain started. I got dumped on for the last few miles, but I was all the way down the mountain and out of harm’s way.
Taking a day off today. I have a couple injuries to attend to. I won’t be 100% tomorrow but I should be well enough to start another hike. I of course want to do a Presidential Traverse while I’m here but the planning is a little difficult with just one car. I’m considering making it the second day of an overnight trip, with the first day being in the Carter Range. It’s still up in the air. I’ll get it figured out today and post a TR when the time comes.
07-08-2014
, 01:52 PM
07-08-2014
, 04:07 PM
