Thanks again to all of you for reading the blog and commenting, that is very nice of you.
FEW DAYS IN BENAULIM
Then was the time to meet Benaulim in Goa.
What I enjoy during this journey is that I’ve been able to take my time so far. I’ve been 9 days in Bénarès then I switched for 2 weeks in Goa. Not the will to go from places to places every 2 days. Not only it is time and money consuming but it is also draining. Feeling the vibe of a place require more than few days and the more you stay in a place that you enjoy, the more you immerge yourself in it.
So, after spending quite some times in both Agonda and Palolem, I decided to go a bit in the north (but still in south Goa) in Benaulim.
One traveler that I met told me pretty good things about this place so I was curious to see it. Plus, it would allow me to see something different from Palolem. At last, it would make me be closer to the train station which would be a benefit the day I decide to leave Goa.
So one morning I took a cab and we drove from Palolem to Benaulim, which was a good one hour drive. I had not booked any hotel room and intended to investigate once there.
The cab dropped me at the beach and left, leaving me all alone with the duty to find a place to spend the night. Since my wish was to find a bungalow on the beach I started to walk there.
My first impressions of the place were not good, and to be honest at first I didn’t click with the place.
It was just a long stretch of beach with nothing, absolutely nothing around. In Palolem you had a beautiful beach with still some café and restaurant and still without being too touristic. But it gives a pleasant vibe. Where I was now there was absolutely nothing beside a couple of ugly shacks. I really had the feeling to be in some indian version of Bagdad Cafe :
I saw a Café/Restaurant on the beach advertising for some bungalows to rent. I walked there and saw a 30 years old indian woman busy with her smartphone.
Namaste !
Namaste, she replied
Could you please tell me the price for a bungalow ?
1000 Rs
Can I see it ?
She stood up and I followed her in the bungalow. Nothing fancy but right on the beach.
Didn’t book it right away, still wanted to see if I couldn’t find something else at a better price, but eventually I returned and booked it.
Ok, little parenthesis. I’m being picky here. Compared to my former ****ty condo with noisy neighbours, bad environment, bad weather, ugly rats faces everywhere and thugs breaking my balls, this Benaulim beach was just heaven ! So, don’t get me wrong, it was still like paradise to be here and those who are looking for some rest will really enjoy the place. My disappointment was in comparison to where I had been before in both Agonda and Palolem. If I had started my journey in Goa there in Benaulim I would have been delighted.
I spent the day walking on that huge and large beach. During my lunch a couple of British had told me that walking toward the east for 30 minutes would make me be at Colva beach, more dynamic. So I decided to walk there.
Well, it was not good. Only populated by Indians, the beach was dirty. I remembered of what this Aussie guys told me one night in Palolem : that Indians tourists ARE the ones who trash the beaches and that indian shopkeepers can’t put ut with them. He was right, the beach there was filled with all kind of trash :
I walked back to where my bungalow was, telling me that coming to Benaulim was a really bad move and that I wished that I had stayed in Palolem or that I had got back in Agonda !
Coming back to my bungalow I met 2 french women traveling together. Actually I was drinking my cold coffee and they were right seated at the table next to me talking in French, so I go into the discussion and started to tchat with them. We spent maybe 20 minutes tchatting. They were kind and it was still nice for me to speak with some people others than Indians.
After my dinner at the beach I came back to my bungalow, seated on the patio, still thinking about how I would spend my days in that place that I didn’t enjoy that much. The two French women arrived.
Hey Angelo, do you enjoy the red wine ?
Sure !
Why don’t you come with us to drink some ?
I’m in !
I followed them and we all seated in their patio outside their bungalow. We spent a good moment together, drinking, laughing, talking until another French woman came out yelling that we were making too much noise talking and that she couldn’t sleep. Typical French aggressive attitude. While I can sympathise with how annoying speaking and laughing loudly until 1am can be a pain in the ass, the way she expressed her feeling was totally inappropriate, and as I told her :
Maybe you should have come and told us nicely that we were making too much noise 1 hour ago instead of waiting that long to now be yelling and screaming.
Anyway, the party was over and I got back in my bungalow. The two French ladies were leaving the following day and I suggested them to go to both Palolem and Agonda, giving them lots of tips about where to eat and sleep there.
I slept quite well but woke up early. Since I’ve left my country I can’t really have good long night. No matter how tired I might be when I go to bed, I still wake up just a few hours later, having very short nights.
I met the two French ladies in the morning while having my breakfast. I was about to leave because paying 1000 Rs for a wooden bungalow on the beach wasn’t was I was ready to pay and I was sure that I could find some better deals. So I packed my thing, payed the manager of the beach shack, wished all the luck to the French girls and then I left.
I walked toward what seemed to me Benaulim downtown. To my surprise I enjoyed the vibe of the place. Contrary to both Agonda and Palolem, the ‘town’ is not parallel to the beach but on the perpendicular which means that the more you get into the town the more you get far from the beach. However I discovered a very charming little beach town, with a very local vibe making it feel like more local than both Agonda or Palolem. In those towns there are of course Indians living there, but for some reasons the feeling to be in a more genuine indian beach town is here in Benaulim.
My view about this place changed drastically and I told myself that I would be happy to stay there for some days.
Lots of signs about rooms to rent so I wasn’t worried and knew that I would find a room at a better price. Long story short I found a nice condo belonging to an indian family, and agreed to rent a room there at the second floor with ensuite bathroom and private balcony. Non AC but a powerful fan, blankets and towels. At first the woman owning the place wanted me to pay 850 Rs but I bargained to 650 Rs after some talks she eventually agreed. Paying 1000 Rs just to be on the beach in a very so so wooden hut was not worth the money and I was happy to be there now in that condo and more centrally located within the town.
This is how I started to spend some days in Benaulim, in the center of the town amongst the Indians. Plus and contrary to Agonda or Palolem you have very few tourists here. The westerners that you meet are not tourists but semi-expat usually coming from UK and spending 6 months a year here. All that gathered really made me enjoy a very local kind of living.
One day and while I was wandering around, I suddenly felt like being Rambo in the Vietnamese fields :
Then, I found myself there and I wondered whether or not I was in Curacao island :
I had to change guest house after the 1st night tho. What happened is that during my first evening in that guest house and while I was working on my notebook in the court yard (oh yeah, just after I booked I was told that there was no internet in the room and that I would have to go in the court yard to have some), the gatekeeper of the place came to me. It was only 10:30pm. He told me that he had to lock the fence of the stairways leading to my room and that I had to go back in my room. This is how I found myself in my room with no wifi, not tired, and nothing to do, at 10:30pm. Impossible to stay there so the following day I told to the guy that I was leaving and explained my reasons.
Quickly I found another guest house belonging to another indian family and paid 550 Rs a night in a non AC room with ensuite bathroom, big common balcony, internet in the room, and the freedom to come and go as I see fit without restriction.
Actually, booking a non AC room there was a big mistake. While every non AC room that I had booked so far was cool enough because of the fan on the ceiling, this one was like an oven. It was hotter in the room than outside which was a good 33°C (91F), so I let you imagine the awful night that I spent in this pit of hell. The following day I asked for an AC room..
Days passed and I enjoyed being in Benaulim and for sure I will come back. Agonda, Palolem, Benaulim, three beach towns with some unique lanscapes, feeling and vibes. Impossible to get bored, each one of these has its own flavour.
At the start of my stay in Benaulim every indian shopkeeper would ask me to come and visit his shop (something that didn’t happen that much in Agonda or Palolem). But after a couple of days and understanding that I wouldn’t buy anything they just leaved me alone and I could walk freely without being hassled.
Other thing : I met some of the best meals there ! Food was very good in Agonda, just good in Palolem, and excellent there in Benaulim ! My god, just for that I want to return !
After 5 days I finally decided to leave and actually I’m typing this article from the train which takes me elsewhere for some other adventures. Where am I going ? Secret, I will tell you in some future article !
Last edited by Psychonication; 03-09-2016 at 01:37 PM.