Life in Agonda and Palolem
Sweet life in Agonda and Palolem. Life in Goa is cool. None of the Indians I’ve been talking to stated any will to move from Goa. “Why would I leave ? It’s so cool here !”.
And actually they are correct. There is no stress in Goa and definitely things are different from Bénarès. No aggressive touts here, no “boat ride ?” fifty times a day or “want some hash ?”, no pollution or filthiness. Weaterh is warmer too without being humid, which was a concern.
I chose to stay in South Goa, wilder and more laid back. All “hippies” (or what is left from them) and tourists go to the Northern part. This is where you have all the trance parties. After being so sick in Varanasi I had to be in a more relaxed place, hence my choice to stay here in the south.
I chose Agonda because I read that beaches were awesome and life very laid back. True statement. Everything is so quiet here. Agonda looks like a beach village with one main road with shops on all sides and the long stretch of beach. Very large with light brown/yellow sands and emerald waters.
As we are in the end of the high season, it is even more quiet than usual. Few tourists and that’s exactly what I was looking for. Prices are not high now and I first paid 16€ for my bungalow before switching for a second place which cost me only 10€ a day. Both being 10m from the beach.
Coming from a city where violence, anger and bitterness are keys, it was quite startling not to have to deal with any of those. And so refreshing.
After a while, I switched to Palolem even more in the south. First time I got there was when I rented a bike in Agonda. Before deciding to move or not there I wanted to have a look at it. Clearly the atmosphere was different. While the beach was still beautiful, there were more people. Not crowded tho but still more activity. At first I didn’t know if this was what I really wanted, but after 5 days in the very quiet Agonda, I made the switch and with no regret.
Life in Palolem is very laid back as well, but you feel less lonely since there are a bit more of people. Indian tourists and some westerners. More activity on the beach and the ‘city’ of Palolem is also a bit more active. Nothing too overwhelming tho which is very nice.
Some pics of Palolem beach :
First time I got to Palolem during that afternoon visit and while I was reaching my scooter to get back to Agonda, I heard a voice call me :
Hey, how’s the been your day ?
Turned my head and saw a white 40 years old female. Kind of former hippie, seated on the ground eating her breakfast. Blonde hair, thin, not really my type. Still chose the polite route :
Fine thanks, I’ve just come here to have an idea about the place.
Where are you coming from ?
Agonda
Nice but too quiet for me ! she said
Yeah, I can relate, hence my visit here
What about having a breakfast tomorrow morning at 10 ?
I was quite surprised by the ease by which she proposed me to join her.
Well, I’m not sure I will be here tomorrow. I still have to pick an accommodation.
You can come to sleep in my place if you want.
Now it was getting weird, and I didn’t really know what her intentions were.
Well, thanks. Still have to look for a place tho.
So, tomorrow at 10am here for the breakfast ?
Can’t say I’ll be here. I’m gonna come for sure but can’t say when
Here, take my card. You have my cell and email
Thanks !
No problem, and enjoy your day ! she said
I went back to Agonda and spent a couple of days there where I met 2 guys from South Africa. Really nice dudes. They live in Johanesburgh and we spoke about their country.
What are you doing here ? one of them asked me
I’m starting a word travel in India
Awsome ! Have you thought about visiting South Africa ?
It’s on my list. Actually I thought about starting there at first before coming here.
He grabbed a piece of paper and wrote something on it.
Hit me up when you come, I’ll show you the city
Thanks buddy, I will.
They were there for 3 or 4 days before going back to SA.
Then I came here in Palolem in a very nice bungalow 20m from the beach. I have all I need here, it’s very relaxed and I only pay 10€ roughly. I wouldn’t like to put more than 20€ a night and the 10-15€ range is ideal.
When I arrived in my guest house here in Palolem I met a Portuguese guy, Francisco.
Where are you from ? he asked
France, but am also Italian. Which side do you prefer ?
Haha, both ! What are you doing here ?
World traveling, starting with India
Gimme five, man ! he said (which I did)
Then he continued :
I used to work in an office in London. Have been doing this **** for 15 years before deciding to throw it all out of the window
What are you doing now ?
I’m a photographer. I travel the world as well.
Oh nice !
Here, take my card. You have my cell and email. If you need anything hit me up !
Thanks, that’s cool
I spend quite some times speaking with locals as well. When I have a drink in a café and that the waiter is bringing me my drink, my usual is :
Are you from Goa ?
Simple yet effective ice breaker. Either he is from Goa and I ask him questions about it, or if he’s coming from another state and is here for work purpose then I question him about the place he’s coming from and various questions about India in general. So far they’ve always appreciated that a westerner gets interested by their life, and happily share stories and tips.
Life here is Goa is very relaxed. Wake up in the morning and have my Cappuccino, or black coffee, or a Chai (depends on my mood) with some nice masala omelet, or double omelet sandwich with brown bread toasts. Wander along the beach and have a swim, relax, hire a scooter to discover the back country, get back to the beach, lunch some indian food or sometimes just some fruit on the beach, have a nap there to the sounds of the waves, another swim, do some business on the internet, walk along the beach, take some cocktain in early evening, go diner, go to bar and speak with locals or tourists, go back to my bungalow, relax, and sleep.
You see, not much stress here. I just enjoy life, with no hassle, no worries. At some point I will hit the road again and do some sight seeings but for now this life is what I enjoy. How long am I going to stay here in Palolem ? Couldn’t say. Couple of days u to a week I think. Then ? Don’t know. Won’t go to the north because too much crowded. Still a shame since this is where the Old goa and its churches are. But 2 hours taxi ride to see a couple of church and stay in some overcrowded beach… hmmm, not sure. Besides and since I plan to keep on moving further to the south, going back and forth from south to north is not very convenient. Something I’m learning while on the road. Next time I will start with north Goa and make my way to the south. But starting directly to the south doesn’t make it releveant to go to the north to get back to the south.
Anyway there was still St Anne's church in Agonda, but unfortunately it was closed.
So I’m considering either going straight to Kochi (13 hours by train from here) and start exploring the Kerala and its backwaters, or go to the Kernataka first which might be quite interesting but a real pain in the ass in term of transportation. So I don’t know yet.
What is certain is that being here in Goa really refuel both my body and mind and allow me to focus on my online activity. I have this blog but also consider starting some online business to sustain me while I’m on the road.
To finish, I’d like to say that I read everywhere that India wasn’t famous for its beach. I strongly disagree. Goa’s beaches has nothing to be ashamed of compared to some Thailand’s beaches and I find the ones here way more interesting and beautiful than some of Koh Samui’s (been there 1,5 year ago).
Other thing to mention is that everyone talks about Goa for his beaches but riding on bike allowed me to see many various kinds of landscape with tropical settings of course but also very arid and Mediterranean ones too, or ponds and rivers or hills.
Oh, and I love those goan houses of every colour ! Here a green one :
Don’t know at what time this article will be published but now it’s 9:30am. Have just finished my my breakfast and am writing this while drinking a wonderful Chai. After that I’m gonna head to the beach and probably rent a scooter to keep on exploring the areas. It’s already warm here and sun is shining.
And you, how’s gonna be your day ?