guys I cant upload pics, it's midnight, I'm hell tired, so **** it
ARRIVING AT VARANASI
- Varanasi is such a ****hole, I’m happy that I’m leaving in a couple of hours
- Really ?
- Yeah, this city sucks man
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It’s been a long flight to come here in Varanasi. Eight hours flight from Paris and then I had to wait for 3,5 hours at Delhi airport.
Couldn’t go outside, the guards didn’t let me, so I had nothing to do but wait. It was 10am local time (6am for me and I didn’t sleep in the plane), and I was exhausted. Delhi airport had no special flavor, it was just another big city airport. Indian males had the same kind of face like being part of the same familly, and I barely noticed some good looking chicks. I ordered a not so tasty capuccino and waited looking the people passing by.
Finally came the time to take my second plane. A smaller one. This flight would only last 2 hours but with a stop in Gaia for 40 minutes with no possibility to get outside. I shared this second plane with a group of at least 30 old Chinese tourists. When the plane arrived at Gaia, they all stood up and left. Then we had to wait for some new passengers to come in. I was really bored. Eight hours flight, then 3,5 hours layover in New Delhi, 1 hour flight to Gaia, then 40 minutes to wait, and finally the last 60 minutes flight to get to Varanasi. Yes, it’s quite a lot.
Arriving in Varanasi airport was not impressive. Maybe was I expecting Vishnu or Shiva to show up and welcome me. Nothing likewise. Instead, just another airport. Smaller than Delhi’s but still a random airport.
Weather was great, at least 28°C and sun was shining. I didn’t know how to get to the Ganga River where my hotel was but I read previously that I could find some prepaid taxi. I was aware that the ride would be something like 550 roupies (Rs). After taking back my backpack, I exited and found myself in the airport lobby.
I didn’t have to wait for a long time before some indian male yelled : “taxi”. Yes sir, I’m looking for a taxi and I’d like to know where the prepaid ones are. He showed me the way and I got there. Another indian male (his brother ? Seriously they all look alike !) welcomed me with shark teeth and asked how he could help. After showing him the paper with both the name and address of my hotel he replied “750 Rs”. Way more than what I had read on the internet. I was aware that you should bargain everything in India so I refused. “Too expensive”. To my surprise, he didn’t change his mind. “Ok, good luck” he just replied. Now I didn’t know what to do and was just hoping that I would find another taxi driver outside the airport.
Going outside I stumbled upon a guard, dressed in some military fashion. Didn’t look that kind but still I asked him where I could find some cab. Long story short, he called a man, talked to him and said that he would take me to my hotel for 500Rs. I agreed, thanked him, and then followed the taxi driver, a 55 years old indian male. His English was not that bad and we started to talk.
- Can you show me your booking ? he asked
- Sure, I said lending him the paper
- Hey ! It’s not where the policeman told me your hotel was ! This is far far away. He told me 3kms but it’s more than 20 !
I knew it was too good to be true and now I was expecting quite a change of plans. I didn’t say anything, just looking at him, waiting his next move. He thought for a 5 or 6 seconds.
- Ok, ok, 500 Rs, he told
- Cool !
- Ok, let’s go !
His car was like a 100 century old one but strangely it was still functional. We started to tchat. The usual you know : what’s your name, why are you coming here, etc. He was nice and started to talk about his familly, his business, while we were driving. I looked around and all was like a nuclear bomb had just exploded : a mix of fields, so called roads made of muds (no concrete there), small sheds or huts around, and strange people seating along the road either talking, doing nothing, or sleeping.
Rapidly we were joined by many others cars, tuc tuc or ricshaws and of course the first cows started to come along the ride. My first cows, walking right on the road, giving no care about the traffic jam. Now I was sure that I was in India and felt like some kind of Robin Williams, wanting to shout so “Good morning India !” so bad.
We drove more than 35 miles and at some point I was unfortunate to talk about the death of my father, reason why I had chosen such a spiritual place to start my world travel.
- I’m a Braman ! he said, showing me a necklace that he wore around his neck. Tomorrow we will do a Puja for your father. I will come at 7am. Big ceremony. Your father will go directly to heaven. Then I will bring you to Sarnath (a city 40 miles away). And a boat ride on the Ganga river too.
Ok, it was a bit too much. Didn’t want to do all this. I had just arrived, was tired, and was aware of some scams. How would he charge for all this ? I definitely got suspicious when he told me “about the puja tomorrow for your father, don’t talk about it to your hotel. It’s a secret”. Now I was almost certain than something was wrong with all this and there was no way I would do it.
We arrived at the hotel and I told him that I would let him know in the future about the ceremony and all that jazz. He felt that I would probably never call him, so when I gave him the 500 Rs bank note he told me “no not good, you have to give me more, it was a long way>”. Said to him that he confirmed me that 500 Rs was ok so there was no reason to change things now. Long story short, he wanted 200 Rs more and I finally gave him just 100 Rs. Was exhausted, wanted to get rid of him so…
My room was very nice and the hotel very well located close to the main Ghat. The manager showed me their rooftop terrace, and man ! What a view of the Ganga River ! I only realized at this very moment that I was abroad, starting my world travel. I felt so good.
I exited the hotel and wandered a bit in the narrow streets with little shops on each side. Smell of curry everywhere. Indians stared quite a lot. I was aware they would so it didn’t feel odd to me.
I stumbled across a nice restaurant full of indian people and got inside. Ordered a chicken curry while looking at people passing by the street.
- Do you mind if I join ?
I raise my head and see a middle aged europpean guy.
- No problem, do, I replied
English man living some part of the year here. Musician, and quite excentric. I was happy to speak with another traveler, I was far away from home and all by myself so it was kind of a relief to speak to another westerner.
I asked him many questions about the city and was glad he could provide to me his insights.
- don't try to **** indian chicks. You'd better use your right hand in your hotel room. Banging a chick here will cause you problems. Stick with tourists.
Then the discussion went south quite quickly. The man started to make some sexual allusions and proposed me to come in his bedroom. Ok, I wanted to make some contact but not THAT kind of contact ! He felt that ****ing my ass would never happen so at the end of the meal he just left and without saying goodbye. I turned my head and saw another 50 years old westerner smiling at me. He came to me.
- He was gay and wanted to **** you
- Wasn’t really sure about it but yeah, probably
- You’re naïve young man
- I am
- I’m gay too, but don’t worry, I give more credit to human relationships than sexual ones. I will never propose you to come into my hotel room.
- Thanks for saying
Spanish man, living between Madrid and Bénarès. Very kind fellow I have to say. His English wasn’t great so it obliged me to speak Spanish – which I’m not that good at – but it was a cool moment.
He was staying at the same hotel than me so we headed to the hotel together. When we said goodbye, he told me :
- Angelo, don’t be too kind and naïve here otherwise you’re gonna be eaten alive here.
- Thanks for the tip !
I went outside the hotel and walked to the main Ghat. There was some ceremonies running. Lot of people, songs and dance, it was beautiful.
However I couldn’t make a step without an indian coming to me and proposing me to buy hachich. Declined each time. Another young boy wanted to buy me some tea and I declined as well. Don’t want to take the risk to be drugged. He was nice and we started to sympathize, but when he told me to sit on the steps and that he would come back with indian tea, I couldn’t take the risk. Maybe he had no ill intentions, but not seeing where the tea was coming from made me be reluctant to accept his offer.
I then took the time to wander along the Ghats. It was nice and peaceful.
Indian people are not dangerous but they can be quite sticky and getting rid of them may be a hassle. So after walking for maybe one hour and being offered at least 20 times to buy hachich, I came back to my hotel to have some sleep.
Sound of the ceremonies from the distancre, smell of spices in the room, I fell asleep quickly thanking life to allow me to experience this starting journey.
The next day I woke up quite fresh and ready for my first day in Varanasi. The view by the mornnig from the hotel rooftop was breath taking.
I chilled out in the street, looking at the indian life, it was great. I met a german traveler, digital nomad doing translations online.
- Varanasi sucks man, what a ****hole this is ! They all talk about the spirituality of this city but besides "boat ride boat ride ?" or "want some hash ?" I haven't found it yet.
We talked a couple of hours and he gave me some tips about traveling around the world since this is what he has been doing for many years now. Really a great encounter. Then we parted ways. He had to go to Kolkota for a wedding, stay some times there before going to Istanbul where he wished to settle down and find a chick.
Then I decided to head toward the University Temple. I didn't know that I would do the biggest mistake I could ever do.
(to be continued)
