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Beginners guitar corner. Beginners guitar corner.

02-14-2012 , 07:52 PM
Probably a truss rod adjustment and maybe raising the action imo, but I'd wait to hear from Mitch.
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02-14-2012 , 07:53 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by sards
Thanks, but I was looking for a way to fix the choking. Does this call for a truss rod adjustment, raising the action, or new fretwork?
Usually not a truss that high up the neck.

Is this a new development?
Is it buzzing playing a note without bending?
Hate to ask this question, but it must be asked, are you new to bending (i.e., you could be releasing pressure at the apex of the bend)?
Which frets (and strings) fret out when bending?
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02-15-2012 , 02:31 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mitch Evans
Is this a new development?
No. I bought the guitar used and it has been like this from the beginning.
Quote:
Is it buzzing playing a note without bending?
Yes, it buzzes slightly and notes don't sustain well when I play on frets 17-20.
Quote:
Hate to ask this question, but it must be asked, are you new to bending (i.e., you could be releasing pressure at the apex of the bend)?
This is definitely not the case (I have been playing for 15 years).
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Which frets (and strings) fret out when bending?
17-20. The problem is most pronounced on the G and B strings, but it also happens on the D and high E.
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02-15-2012 , 06:56 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by sards
No. I bought the guitar used and it has been like this from the beginning.

Yes, it buzzes slightly and notes don't sustain well when I play on frets 17-20.

This is definitely not the case (I have been playing for 15 years).

17-20. The problem is most pronounced on the G and B strings, but it also happens on the D and high E.
Although a twist/warp is never out of the question, it actually just sounds like the action is too low. It would stand to reason that the high E should buzz most due to how a Les Paul saddle is graduated in height (i.e., the G and B are higher than the E string), but since the G and B are thicker and vibrate in a larger circumference, they are more susceptible to buzz when too low.

I'd check the relief in the neck (those frets will not take to a truss, but it's best to make sure it's right before raising the action). If everything is good, raise the action up a tad on the bass side and quite a bit more on the treble. It's also best to adjust the intonation after you mess with the action.
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02-15-2012 , 08:50 PM
Thanks! I will try it tomorrow.
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02-16-2012 , 06:28 AM
so, i haven't gotten my guitar back yet, but i think i might have figured out why my bridge was so high off the face and it wouldn't play. the strings i got were 9's, but were light's. i am wondering if the ones i had weren't lights, but mediums, so therefore when tuned up the same made the bridge higher and the strings too much tension? i don't know much about strings so i don't know if they make a light vs med string in the same diameter, but it makes sense that that would cause what was happening. just a thought.
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02-16-2012 , 06:38 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by jmitchell42
so, i haven't gotten my guitar back yet, but i think i might have figured out why my bridge was so high off the face and it wouldn't play. the strings i got were 9's, but were light's. i am wondering if the ones i had weren't lights, but mediums, so therefore when tuned up the same made the bridge higher and the strings too much tension? i don't know much about strings so i don't know if they make a light vs med string in the same diameter, but it makes sense that that would cause what was happening. just a thought.
If they are 9-42 it doesn't matter what's written on the package. You sure it wasn't a hybrid set of 9-46?
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02-16-2012 , 10:15 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by jmitchell42
so, i haven't gotten my guitar back yet, but i think i might have figured out why my bridge was so high off the face and it wouldn't play. the strings i got were 9's, but were light's. i am wondering if the ones i had weren't lights, but mediums, so therefore when tuned up the same made the bridge higher and the strings too much tension? i don't know much about strings so i don't know if they make a light vs med string in the same diameter, but it makes sense that that would cause what was happening. just a thought.
There would never be light and medium strings with the same diameter. Unless you bought some weird North Korean brand that was mis-packaged. The tension at tune between different string brands is going to be the same as long as the diameter is the same and the string is quality.
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02-16-2012 , 03:57 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mitch Evans
If they are 9-42 it doesn't matter what's written on the package. You sure it wasn't a hybrid set of 9-46?
the ones i put on were definitely 9's. i did realize i don't know what was on there when i got it though. i wonder if i was trying to put on strings that were different from the ones that were put on at the factory. that could have caused my difficulties in the set up right?
i am still trying to learn about this stuff. def don't know crap about strings.
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02-16-2012 , 04:49 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by jmitchell42
the ones i put on were definitely 9's. i did realize i don't know what was on there when i got it though. i wonder if i was trying to put on strings that were different from the ones that were put on at the factory. that could have caused my difficulties in the set up right?
i am still trying to learn about this stuff. def don't know crap about strings.
Strats come stock with 9s. The only way a set of 9's would raise the trem up that high is if it were set up for 8's (and the claw tension reduced), but with 3 springs on the back and the claw in that deep, there's no way 9's would raise the trem. You either were tuning it too high (doubtful) or the strings were mispackaged (even more doubtful, but possible). Most common reason is 9 11 16 26 36 46 instead of 9 11 16 24 32 42.

That's why I really wanted you to go through the steps I mentioned and give it one more try. A raised trem is an easy fix once you can determine what's causing it, and there can only be two reasons.
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02-16-2012 , 04:53 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mitch Evans
Strats come stock with 9s. The only way a set of 9's would raise the trem up that high is if it were set up for 8's (and the claw tension reduced), but with 3 springs on the back and the claw in that deep, there's no way 9's would raise the trem. You either were tuning it too high (doubtful) or the strings were mispackaged (even more doubtful, but possible). Most common reason is 9 11 16 26 36 46 instead of 9 11 16 24 32 42.

That's why I really wanted you to go through the steps I mentioned and give it one more try. A raised trem is an easy fix once you can determine what's causing it, and there can only be two reasons.
i just got frustrated so i took it in. i am not giving up though and will def try again. i know i am not the first to screw it up the first time so i am not discouraged. i just appreciate all the help and info i am getting itt.
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02-16-2012 , 05:12 PM
Yeah, I know and can't blame you; that's a really unforeseen complication that can lead to frustration easily (this happens all the time with Floyd Rose bridges, but it's more or less expected on Floyds).
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02-16-2012 , 05:14 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mitch Evans
Yeah, I know and can't blame you; that's a really unforeseen complication that can lead to frustration easily (this happens all the time with Floyd Rose bridges, but it's more or less expected on Floyds).
what is the difference in those bridges?
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02-16-2012 , 06:07 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by jmitchell42
what is the difference in those bridges?
A Floyd is generally setup to be 100% floating; that is, the tension of the strings pull the bridge up, and the tension of the springs pull the bridge down. The bridge has no contact with the body. If you break a string on a gig, for example, the remaining 5 strings will go sharp (and not in any consistent manner) because you decreased the tension that is pulling on the springs. Changing strings for a beginner on a Floyd is a nightmare by itself, let alone trying to do a set up.
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02-16-2012 , 06:13 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mitch Evans
A Floyd is generally setup to be 100% floating; that is, the tension of the strings pull the bridge up, and the tension of the springs pull the bridge down. The bridge has no contact with the body. If you break a string on a gig, for example, the remaining 5 strings will go sharp (and not in any consistent manner) because you decreased the tension that is pulling on the springs. Changing strings for a beginner on a Floyd is a nightmare by itself, let alone trying to do a set up.
sounds a lot like the bridge i have tbh. i mean the front of the bridge is screwed on the guitar, but that is it.
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02-16-2012 , 06:55 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by jmitchell42
sounds a lot like the bridge i have tbh. i mean the front of the bridge is screwed on the guitar, but that is it.
No, you have a stock strat bridge. It can be set up for floating, but nothing like a Floyd Rose. This is a Kahler, but it's the same floating fulcrum style. See how the body is routed out behind the bottom of the bridge.






Notice the flutter trick at 1:45 and 3:20

And that's nothing even radical. You can get very aggressive (ala LivrA) with these bridges.

Last edited by Mitch Evans; 02-16-2012 at 07:02 PM.
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02-16-2012 , 09:23 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mitch Evans
No, you have a stock strat bridge. It can be set up for floating, but nothing like a Floyd Rose. This is a Kahler, but it's the same floating fulcrum style. See how the body is routed out behind the bottom of the bridge.






Notice the flutter trick at 1:45 and 3:20

And that's nothing even radical. You can get very aggressive (ala LivrA) with these bridges.
ahhh. i see the difference. i didn't figure that is what i had, i just didn't know the difference. don't think i will probably get one of those anytime soon either.
thanks mang
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02-17-2012 , 01:18 AM
Free Lirva IMO
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02-17-2012 , 09:09 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mitch Evans
You can get very aggressive (ala LivrA) with these bridges.





Quote:
Originally Posted by gambit8888
Free Lirva IMO

oh you're good!
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02-17-2012 , 09:10 PM
I'm kinda worried I'll break another bar imo.
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02-19-2012 , 12:41 AM
got my guitar back. woohoo.
def is set up different though. the bridge isn't floating up at all. it is flush against the body of the guitar. didn't know it was supposed to be like that. i though it was supposed to be 1/8 an inch or so off. at least that is how it was when i got it. def isn't like that now though. gonna play it here in a bit to see how it feels.
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02-19-2012 , 01:25 AM
Whelp

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02-19-2012 , 01:55 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by gambit8888
Whelp

i have to admit, it def sounds better than it did before i started. i do like it. is cleaner sounding. i don't care for the guy who did it, but it is good. i am still glad i went through the experience and i know i won't learn **** from the guy who set it up for me as he was berating me for simply bringing it in on monday. he really is a douchebag, and i literally couldn't finish a question when i was around him. he really likes to hear himself talk, but he seems to do good work. i will try again sometime and go to a local place if i need some understanding on what i am doing. that and tt with you guys to help me.

Last edited by jmitchell42; 02-19-2012 at 01:56 AM. Reason: i wanna do that as a career. set up and play with instruments. how dammit.
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02-19-2012 , 04:09 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by jmitchell42
got my guitar back. woohoo.
def is set up different though. the bridge isn't floating up at all. it is flush against the body of the guitar. didn't know it was supposed to be like that. i though it was supposed to be 1/8 an inch or so off. at least that is how it was when i got it. def isn't like that now though. gonna play it here in a bit to see how it feels.
This is a good thing imo. You'll have fewer tuning problems and can mess around with alternate tunings with more ease.

Every tremolo on a beginner's guitar should be set up this way.
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02-19-2012 , 06:42 PM

Here ya go Jmitchell42 this one is mine
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