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04-08-2019 , 11:09 PM
Here's a hand I played where I was clueless on every street and would like feedback. Thanks!

predraw:
I open 258(4K) in the CO
BTN 3B, and only I call

1st draw (3.75 big bets):
2-2, I discarded the 4 and K (is there ever a circumstance where I keep the 4?)
257(78) (tri improved from 258 to 257)
I check, BTN bets, I call

2nd draw (4.75 big bets):
1-1, I discarded the 7 only (should I discard both 7 and the 8 instead and try and go for a badugi?)
257Q(8)
I check, BTN bets, and I'm clueless on what to do getting 5.75:1
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04-08-2019 , 11:43 PM
Got the format of the street/draw names off by a ton

Action is

Predraw:
I open 258(4K), Btn 3b, I call
2-2 (I discard 4 and K)

2nd draw (7.5 small bets):
I xc 257(78)
1-1 (I discard 7)

3rd draw (4.75 big bets):
I check 257Q(8) and villain bets offering me 5.75:1
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04-09-2019 , 01:46 PM
I flat the raise, keep wheel cards and D1 in your spot pre. You can balance this by doing the same with some made badugis you don't need to isolate, and be able to get a raise in later. In this game specifically it isn't that odd to flat a 3b and D1. Since there are fewer pure snow opportunities, you don't need to be as aggressive repping your hands as in one-winner games.

The marginal suited cards are Sixes, and I usually D2 there since I would have to keep some cards that make straight draws. If you have something like 247/8X you can play it as D2 without giving up much in raw equity, and your implied position gets better.

Standard call on river.
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04-09-2019 , 02:05 PM
I'm confused by the hh. Are we on the river in the end? Or isn't there still 1 more street?

I'd keep the 4 on the first draw. I need clarification on what is going on in this hand to comment more after that.
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04-09-2019 , 03:32 PM
Looks like there's no more drawing left on the end and it's the final betting round.
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04-09-2019 , 07:14 PM
D1 is an interesting spot. I think d1 or d2 are both viable, and there might even be a case for drawing to the 24(5) instead of 248.

D2 is standard.

For the final draw, i think i pitch the queen, but would not be suprised to hear its wrong.
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04-09-2019 , 08:10 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by zoogenhiem
I'm confused by the hh. Are we on the river in the end? Or isn't there still 1 more street?

I'd keep the 4 on the first draw. I need clarification on what is going on in this hand to comment more after that.
we're on the turn. there's one draw left and I felt clueless what to do with Q/Q
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04-09-2019 , 08:17 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by uberkuber
Looks like there's no more drawing left on the end and it's the final betting round.
Nevermind, I somehow considered the predraw as a draw.
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04-09-2019 , 08:52 PM
so here's my thought processes

A) Predraw:
I feel like the advantage to d1 is I win half the pot a ton, whereas if I d2 I get to win the whole pot sometimes as well as half the pot sometimes. If I were to guess, I think the frequency I win the whole pot with d2 is high enough that it makes it worth going for.

B) 2nd draw:
Villain d2 predraw, so he for sure has a solid 3 tri. My tri is still ****ty and now with 257(78), I just have a low draw before the bigger betting rounds. I think since the pot is fairly big now, and with 2 draws remaining, and against a super strong tri that could have improved, my best course of action is just to surrender going for the whole pot, and just go for half of the pot now. I could be wrong and that d2 may still be better.

C) Turn (before the 3rd draw):
Villain bets into me offering me 5.75:1 and I have Q/Q. Villain did d1 the street before.

If he were to flip over his hand,

I'd pat Q/Q vs. 4 babies + 3 good tri (I get half a ton and maybe even the whole pot),
I'd pat Q/Q vs. just a low (I always get half),
I'd debate between folding and d1 (pitch the queen) vs. good badugi + no low (I'm screwed, but he's still drawing, so sometimes I get half),
I'd fold vs. good badugi + low (I'm drawing dead or close to dead)

If I were to guess, the frequency of 4 babies + 3 good tri is high enough where it's worth it for me to pat and cry call down.

Thoughts on my thoughts?

Last edited by tiger415; 04-09-2019 at 09:18 PM.
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04-09-2019 , 09:06 PM
Pre and flop are both WP. I very much like calling and patting on the river. You can still scoop this pot. My second choice is to fold I think and third is to call and draw 1. I STRONGLY prefer to pat, though. His 3b indicates a strong tri, so a higher percentage of his D1 range consists of strong tri + low draw (as opposed to a badugi) than someone with a weaker tri because when you start with a rough tri you are more likely to draw 2 twice than keep a low draw + tri (as you did in this hand).
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04-09-2019 , 09:25 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by electrical
I flat the raise, keep wheel cards and D1 in your spot pre. You can balance this by doing the same with some made badugis you don't need to isolate, and be able to get a raise in later. In this game specifically it isn't that odd to flat a 3b and D1. Since there are fewer pure snow opportunities, you don't need to be as aggressive repping your hands as in one-winner games.

The marginal suited cards are Sixes, and I usually D2 there since I would have to keep some cards that make straight draws. If you have something like 247/8X you can play it as D2 without giving up much in raw equity, and your implied position gets better.

Standard call on river.
Quote:
Originally Posted by monikrazy
D1 is an interesting spot. I think d1 or d2 are both viable, and there might even be a case for drawing to the 24(5) instead of 248.

D2 is standard.

For the final draw, i think i pitch the queen, but would not be suprised to hear its wrong.
Quote:
Originally Posted by RolldUpTrips
Pre and flop are both WP. I very much like calling and patting on the river. You can still scoop this pot. My second choice is to fold I think and third is to call and draw 1. I STRONGLY prefer to pat, though. His 3b indicates a strong tri, so a higher percentage of his D1 range consists of strong tri + low draw (as opposed to a badugi) than someone with a weaker tri because when you start with a rough tri you are more likely to draw 2 twice than keep a low draw + tri (as you did in this hand).
Thanks, I appreciate all the feedbacks!
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04-09-2019 , 09:39 PM
In future think it’s best to label as flop and turn to help eliminate confusion
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04-09-2019 , 10:19 PM
If you pat on the final draw, are you always check/calling river? Even if he pats back?
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04-10-2019 , 07:01 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by RolldUpTrips
Pre and flop are both WP. I very much like calling and patting on the river. You can still scoop this pot. My second choice is to fold I think and third is to call and draw 1. I STRONGLY prefer to pat, though. His 3b indicates a strong tri, so a higher percentage of his D1 range consists of strong tri + low draw (as opposed to a badugi) than someone with a weaker tri because when you start with a rough tri you are more likely to draw 2 twice than keep a low draw + tri (as you did in this hand).
i think im the opposite, and would almost always check call draw 1.
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04-10-2019 , 12:30 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by tiger415
we're on the turn. there's one draw left and I felt clueless what to do with Q/Q
Oh, in that case, I toss the Queen and draw, but I think in-game experience is important. If you can read the player as RolledUpTrips has, obviously patting is good, but I don't think the action defines villain's hand as precisely.
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04-11-2019 , 02:50 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by electrical
I flat the raise, keep wheel cards and D1 in your spot pre. You can balance this by doing the same with some made badugis you don't need to isolate, and be able to get a raise in later. In this game specifically it isn't that odd to flat a 3b and D1. Since there are fewer pure snow opportunities, you don't need to be as aggressive repping your hands as in one-winner games.

The marginal suited cards are Sixes, and I usually D2 there since I would have to keep some cards that make straight draws. If you have something like 247/8X you can play it as D2 without giving up much in raw equity, and your implied position gets better.

Standard call on river.
let's say I do have a 4 low card badugi. It feels right to just 4b most of them right away ? I'd hate the flop to get checked around... How much should I balance to help out my weaker D1s? I feel like just calling pre with a made badugi gives up too much value.
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04-11-2019 , 02:52 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by monikrazy
D1 is an interesting spot. I think d1 or d2 are both viable, and there might even be a case for drawing to the 24(5) instead of 248.

D2 is standard.

For the final draw, i think i pitch the queen, but would not be suprised to hear its wrong.
Drawing to 24(5) did not even occur to me. Can you explain the reasonings behind it?
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04-11-2019 , 02:54 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by electrical
Oh, in that case, I toss the Queen and draw, but I think in-game experience is important. If you can read the player as RolledUpTrips has, obviously patting is good, but I don't think the action defines villain's hand as precisely.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob...Chill
i think im the opposite, and would almost always check call draw 1.


by this, does that mean villain should pretty much never have 4 babies + 3 good tri?
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04-11-2019 , 04:25 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by tiger415
Drawing to 24(5) did not even occur to me. Can you explain the reasonings behind it?
dont even consider doing that

Quote:
Originally Posted by tiger415
by this, does that mean villain should pretty much never have 4 babies + 3 good tri?
no somwtimes we breaks a hand that scoops or gets half.
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04-11-2019 , 10:35 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by tiger415
let's say I do have a 4 low card badugi. It feels right to just 4b most of them right away ? I'd hate the flop to get checked around... How much should I balance to help out my weaker D1s? I feel like just calling pre with a made badugi gives up too much value.
Most of the time yeah just 4b, but some of the time you can flat a D1 badugi because it will induce bets from the kind of hand villain usually has here, a good three-card with a low draw, and you are a pretty solid money favorite against that hand with any badugi D1

If preflop is 1:2, then leading the flop is standard regardless of your actual hand. Usually a 3b in position here will be a good three plus a low draw or a made badugi, either way he's probably going to bet the flop. As it happens, he has 3b D2s in his range, maybe he paired a couple of low suited cards and thinks he's compromised your badugi draw. Whatever, the preflop 3b will often be D1 and you can induce a bet into your badugi hands, turns out it wasn't this time.
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04-11-2019 , 11:48 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by tiger415
let's say I do have a 4 low card badugi. It feels right to just 4b most of them right away ? I'd hate the flop to get checked around... How much should I balance to help out my weaker D1s? I feel like just calling pre with a made badugi gives up too much value.
I'm not going to go into it to much, but you should 4 bet every badugi preflop
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04-12-2019 , 01:00 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by tiger415
Drawing to 24(5) did not even occur to me. Can you explain the reasonings behind it?
A weak tri doesnt play very well oop, so switching to a smooth lo draw with worse badugi equity and more nut potential has good aspects to it. Its pretty easy for hero to get trapped into showing down mediocre 1 way hands and scooped.

I havent really spent too much time thinking about the theory here, but seems like i would learn a lot from the excercise.
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04-12-2019 , 02:33 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob...Chill
I'm not going to go into it to much, but you should 4 bet every badugi preflop
Ty!
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04-12-2019 , 04:50 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by monikrazy
A weak tri doesnt play very well oop.
But it plays better than a 2 card 5
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04-12-2019 , 01:03 PM
Anyone out there adventurous enough to take a crack at creating a distribution of hands along with probabilities assuming we draw to (258)4, (258), and (25)4?

That is a key thing to look at and understand when discussing this type of situation
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