Just getting into these now and managed to get a good sample in this week. I'm asking if any of you guys can point me in the direction of the best site for some videos on these or any good articles?

Fasttrack

What would you expect a solid regs win % to be?

About 6-7% ROI

What does the US facing husng scene look like right now? Pretend I fell asleep on April 15th and just woke up.

Stack Eff. (BB) 75 Pot 150
EV = %RangeH*((EquityH*Pot)-((1-EquityH)*Pot))-((1-RangeH)*BB)

Is this Correct?? Should i call with 22+, A2s+, K2s+, Q2s+, J5s+, T7s+, 98s, A2o+, K2o+, Q5o+, J8o+, T9o (50%).

P.d.: Sorry, my english really sux.

I think the center part of the equation should read ((EquityH*ChipsWon)-((1-EquityH)*ChipsLost))

ChipsWon includes the pot + the remaining effective stack. ChipsLost is only the amount Hero has to call to make the play.

I've just recently been trying to brush up on my NLH math so I'm not 100% but I think that's right.

I'm also not sure if the last bit should be ((1-RangeH)*BB) or ((1-RangeH)*pot). I think the latter. This represents the fact that you are forfeiting any claim to those chips when folding.

Your result will further depend on what you are assuming your opponent's range is, so no one can answer your question unless you post the range you think villain is shoving with.

Hopefully someone else who understands the math better can chime in and clarify. Just listening to me may be a case of "the blind leading the blind."

I play the €30s atm. but i have over 100BI to the €50s, problem is that everytime i try to move up i lose.

Any suggestions?

Is it possible the reason is that you get sat by regs a lot when you try to move up?

If so, it may be that you need to think about how to adjust to better opponents because they will probably keep it up unless/until you show them they don't have much of an edge over you. Do you belong to any of the coaching sites? Are you participating in the monthly session reviews? Participating in the forum's strat discussions? I think there's also a skype group going? These are all ways of improving your play, but if you get to know people, they may also be less likely to give to you a hard time.

The other alternative is to switch to cash since you'll have more control over who you play.

I'll give u 2 (perhaps out-of-the-box):

(1) Usually a nice heater gets you the BR to move up. Once u r on to the next stake, that heater turns cold (as is poker), and often people don't see this and think they're not as good when it's the cards that have turned on them. Solution: fight through it.

(2) People overplay (fancy play, over-aggro etc.) when they reach a new stake thinking the players are far better and they need to match up skill-wise. Solution: not to sound conceited but I don't care what stake I play, I have the confidence to play thinking I'm better than my opponent. Whether that's true or not, it keeps me within my game and I don't deviate unnecessarily and so far I haven't run across anyone who's dominated me (other than through the luck of the cards).

Thanks for the response themuppets and bunzablood, very solid points.

About that heater thing, is it something to really consider in the future?

I told myself "when i get my roll to €x i will take another shot at the €50s", and yesterday i won 7BI at the 30s which got me to my goal but before i started i thought to myself, no way i can even win more now after winning 7bi at the 30s already.

Can somebody explain what bumhunting means?

Brokerstar mentioned it in one of his videos, seems to be something bad.

"Bumhuntiing" is basically just refusing to play better players, or players who you feel you don't have a huge edge against. The concept is more applicable to cash games, where you can refuse action to any opponent who sits you.

It does happen in HUSnGs as well, however, especially on sites where there are multiple tables for each stake, or, as was the case with FTP, a new table is created each time one person starts an SnG. The "bumhunters" will prefer to create a second table, rather than sitting the regular who is already waiting.

Whether or not it's bad is a subject of much debate. I'm basically of the opinion that you should have the right to game select (hence the reason I keep quoting the term "bumhunting" above). It does present some challenges, however. For example, people often ask what fish must think when they open up a lobby and see 10 regulars unwilling to play eachother. And obv, the more regulars there are sitting, the less action for each particular regular. One advantage of the HUSnGs is that regulars can "police" their lobbies by repeatedly sitting worse regs until they become discouraged and stop sitting at that particular site/stake.

Interesting u say this..first time I tried the 30's, I was up 7BI right away, then I lost ~ 24BI to end the day! Next day, I recovered 12BI or so. It took a few days to get back to black. It was a horrible downswing where I didn't get any cards, opponents were drawing out on me with 2 outers and 3 outers and gutshots and once I went allin with 22 and an idiot called me iwth 48s (at 23bb) and he caught a 4 and won...so, yeah, it's something to consider.

I think what u need to do is just put in tons of volume and try your best not to worry about the ups and downs...just play, improve your game as best u can, adjust to the slightly better talents of the new stake and don't be so results oriented and you'll be fine.

Yeah, bumhunting is the ultimate form of table selection so one can't player hate. But it is a bit sleezy too. My ONLY problem with bumhunting is if the fish get scared of all those regs sitting and run off. As you said, FTP was bad for that. Stars is good. So I have no issues with it now. As long as the fish find their way to the lobbies and feel comfortable and want to play, then bumhunting totally fine....

Is there any point in cbetting A-high/3rd pair on dry boards against villains who won't abuse the fact that we're never check back a strong hand? Folding out his equity share doesn't seem to be a good enough reason when I do the maths.

I mean wet boards -.-

The main flops I check back to start are the ones where all cards fall in like the 6 - J range, especially if the flop is two-tone. I usually c-bet low running flops to start just to see how they react, but will back off if they frequently peel or fight back.

Also, if a villain's fold frequency is unusually high, I will just hammer every flop regardless.

I'm def not saying I know this is an optimal strategy -- just throwing it out there for further discussion.

For me, it's really hard not to c-bet every flop, just a habit from my HULHE days. I also call down too light sometimes!

Depends on the eff. stack size. What is this for? 75bb, 50bb, 30bb, 20bb, 10bb? Generally, the deeper the eff. stack, the more I feel I can check back, the shallower I am the more I'm betting 3rd pair or overcards. FE is key at <15bb after all.

Nevermind, there was an error in my calculation. Cbetting turned out to be profitable when I fixed it.

Hi. First post. I have been a lurker but not in the HUSNG forum. I just started playing HUSNGs about a month ago.

I feel like I handle LAGs and loose-passive players well in general, but I feel completely lost when playing against TAGs or tight-passive players. I am wondering what sort of general adjustments I can make, especially against TAGs.

It's a super broad question. I think it would be a good project to find a few examples of hands against such opponents that you found especially tricky or hard and post them in the forum. Also, begin commenting on existing threads and see how your ideas line up against those of the other posters.

What is the best way to improve as a player?

I just started playing HUSNG's and have a decent understanding of the basic theory (I've read threads here and watched some beginner videos from HUSNG.com). So I'm wondering what I should be doing to improve. Should I just play a bunch of games and then read over the hand histories and analyze the games? In roughly what proportion should I playing vs studying theory vs reviewing hhs?

I'm not really a fan of putting players into certain bins of player types. for instance, someone may start out playing very tight but will loosen up during end game. you need to be playing attention so you can adjust on the fly. This will help you from thinking too one dimensionally when you are facing said player type. You shouldn't have a specific game plan for a category of players; but rather adjust and have a plan for your individual opponents.

If you are facing someone who is very tight out of position, then you should be raising way more on the button as they are folding too much oop. If they are raising their button and cbetting a ton of flops and they seem to give up too easily, c/r them when it seems fit on the right boards.
GL

***** Hand History for Game 66371948928 ***** (Poker Stars)
Seat 1 is the button
Seat 1: xxx ( $500.00 USD )
Seat 2: Hero ( $500.00 USD )
xxx posts small blind [$10.00 USD].
Hero posts big blind [$20.00 USD].
** Dealing down cards **
Dealt to Hero [ 5h 5d ]
xxx raises [$50.00 USD]
Hero raises [$130.00 USD]
xxx raises [$440.00 USD]
Hero ???

ST First hand. Easy call?