Hey all have 3 hands and a theory spot about another hand.

H1- 30k stack at 200-300 (300 bb ante) and have 99 in big blind. Utg+2 starts a limp train at 7 handed table. Ok so 4 players end up limping and small blind completes. I pop it up to 2k and everyone decides to call. Flop 224 (R) pot-12.3k and I Cbet 4K. Utg+2 calls and button calls. Older Asian gentlemen (small blind) lwho I would consider snug pops it to 12.5k and I just muck. Is this fine? I couldn’t see what hand he would do this with that is worse than 99. Normally I would call or pile here but feel that he’s not raising this spot after I Cbet and 2 others flat it. Do we ever raise bigger pre here? I was trying to get it to a heads up or 3 way pot and don’t expect 2k to get all calls honestly. The sb I felt could have some goofy 4s in his range and maybe 22. I didn’t think he would obv have 10-10+

H2- I have 60k at 500-1k 1k and open QQ to 3k utg and get flatted by aggro bluffer from utg+3 and older gentleman calls from small blind (he’s kinda bad from pat play with him). Flop qj5 (r). I check, aggro bets 6.5k, old man calls, I call. Turn 7 with a flush draw possibility. I check with intentions to XR, both Villians check back. River 5 with no flush on board. Pot is 33.5k and I lead 25k. Aggro calls and old man tank folds. Do we ever take a different line here to actually get stacks in? Can I ever donk lead turn which is kinda awkard. I felt I should probably bet turn but idk. Agg said he had AJ so I found his call a little odd based on my sizing but idk.

H3- I have 100k+ after running well so far. 600-1200 and we have 66 1right of button. 2 limps, one from mp and one from one right of me. I limp behind which is weak and not normal from me but I’m trying new (maybe stupid)things. Table is pretty short compared to me and average is prolly 40-45k. Sb folds and bb oks flop. 56j. I lead 1/3rd pot, bb calls, fold and older Asian with short stack calls from button. Turn 7, I 1/2 pot (around 5k about I think), bb calls and button jams for 12k. I call, bb calls. River is a 3 (brings in flush with 3 of one suit on board) and bb checks to me. What do we do here? I elected to value bet 25k bc I didn’t think she would check super strong hands or have a 4 in her range. She sigh calls with 47o and we lose.

To defend myself, in the hand I didn’t realize it was an odd pot I limped behind in and she was a bb seeing a free flop basically. Simple check back on river correct? Also do we raise turn shove? Meh I felt we were losing value if we shove and I’m trying to go for max value which is why I elected to not click it back over the shove etc.

Final hand theory. What kind of odds do you look for live when set mining. If an older man Isolates over some limpers what kinda pot odds are you looking for. My coach from online poker way back when said 15-1 was the minimum we take. The other day I limped behind 55 and a bb older man raises to like 7k over 1.5k limps and I wanna say I had 10.1-1 to make the call (5.5 to call with a tad over 55k behind). The other limper called and I was just wondering what is your rule for set mining?

Normally I stick to 15-1 however I’ve wanted to test 10/12–1. I feel like I almost never build gigantic stacks early in live mtts which really hurts my results. Maybe I just run meh and never have god mode days but I feel I might play too passive in spots and too aggressive when not called for. I think I have solid fundamentals most of the time no doubt but my errors tend to be big errors and really need to be cut out. Thanks for thoughts. Example- h3 above is a check back and a spew of 25k when we almost never get called by worse.

H1. 100bbs deep I just check my option pre most of the time from BB. Iso'ing is ok in theory (bc it's so likely that you have the best hand, etc) but I prefer hands that play better post. Imo it doesn't make sense to play big pots (especially OOP) with marginal hands...99 is actually a "good" hand but the vast majority (~88%) of the time, you will not flop a set and (~80% of the time) there will be at least 1 overcard on the board and you will be in a marginal spot (even the <1% of the time when you are HU.) I'd rather iso something like A5s, which doesn't flop much better but still plays very well in raised pots (especially when it's multiway.) You can semibluff or check and have enuf equity to continue sometimes with as little as a bdfd (b/c it's to the nuts)+bdsd (wheel draws are always very well hidden, which increases their implied odds.)

As played sizing pre is ok...I just use a formula of 3x+1bb per limper and I always add 1bb when I'm OOP. When you bet 4k into 12k, I think you have to continue vs a smallish raise (and hope that the other 2 callers fold) and call again on a lot of turns. You're really only losing to 1 combo of 22 and A2s for SB (since 44 always slowplays.) If the villain is indeed tight, he will probably check it down and you will win a good % of the time. I would CBet bigger tho...~60% pot.

H2. Once you check the flop you really shouldn't be doing much leading on future streets. Check raising is fine otf at a low freq and ott but as played, I would probably rather go for the c/r otr on a safe board like QJ575xx. I will say that you ended up getting max value by leading vs AJ but you also will just fold-out all the missed draws that could elect to bluff. If QJ5 flop had a FD then I would Cbet like 2 combos of top set when it's multiway.

H3. I limp behind almost always but bet bigger otf and ott. FWIW I think this is a better spot to iso than H1, but still not that great with this holding. I would DEF 3bet the turn and iso btn (results aside - this is by far the biggest mistake imo*.) The pot is already big and your hand needs some protection with the bdfd and 3 to a str8 on board. There's way more value in denying equity to the BB than there is in slowplaying since the board can have a lot of bad runouts where you will either be beat or it will be much tougher to get value. As played the board otr is: 56J73xxx...just check back, although it might be closer if BB is the type that is likely to lead when they complete their draws. If you're gonna bet for thin value on 4-str8 boards then you gotta really size down to get value from 2pr (usually ~1/4 - 1/3 pot is good.)

* I was just calculating the potsize and it should be ~15k ott, so if you bet ~7k and btn jammed for <14k then it wouldn't reopen the betting afaik. If you bet 5k (which would be 1/3 pot,) the 12k jam would reopen the betting.

Re: the implied odds theory question, there are some good older threads where this question is debated at length. I believe that the conclusion (that the good players came to) was we need a minimum of 15 to 1 implied IP and 20 to 1 implied OOP to profitably setmine. Check it out tho.