I am thinking about getting serious with BRM but I only have a 4k live roll and the home games I play at are 1-3 or 2-3. Most people buy in with 100bb

In order to keep myself in the game consistently, I am considering to buy in with 60BB, top of to 100-150BB if the game is juicy and set the stop-loss at 250BB. Provided that I can beat the game in the long run, is this a solid BRM plan?

put your whole roll on the table and have fun

If you are a winning player at that level, you usually don't need much of a roll. Unless you are getting cooler after cooler, a winning player wouldn't shouldn't have much more than a 5-10 buy-in downswing at this level. This of course depends on rake and level of competition (I'm using live 2/3 casino games with a 4-5 dollar drop as a proxy).

Yeah it's really just how good of a player you are.

For a solid winning player at 1/3, 4k is plenty ime

Confirmed that the 2/5 game at the Hard Rock is softer than soft.

Nice run. I've been playing there a fair amount lately. We probably would recognize each other.

Solid winning players wouldn't be caught with a small roll.

If you have a proven track record of beating the game, I'd buy in for 100 BBs. You still have 13 buyins.

BRM = bankroll management.

Main idea behind the management is to avoid busto. Here is a RoR calculator:

http://pokerdope.com/poker-variance-calculator/

A lot of young players lack motivation and many of them use the fear of busto as driving force to remain focus in the game. Kind of like how "higher" limit players would sit in a lower limit game and begin spewing because they think money on the table is less of value. So it can actually be negative EV to maintain too much BR for some of these players.

For more developed players, not having to worry about session variance or even monthly variance can be very +EV to their game. In order to do that, you would definitely need a big roll.

BRM has to do with mental game as much as physical game, beyond RoR.

So I have played online for many years (steady for the last 5/ profitable), and on a whim decided to find a live game and check it out.

I play a lot PLO online, but mostly NL in the past. .25/.5 and .5./1 mostly, but have explored a little higher. First thing that caught my attention was how much deeper the game is. several were 300bb and couple of 500bb stacks seem to be the norm. Then much more limping and so many more pots are multi-way even in a raised pot. This style took some getting used to, bc so much online is 6 max (this game is mostly a full 10), online there is so much heads up to a pot. Anyway, I think I over adjusted to the game way too much at first, but the last few sessions I'm more comfortable, and have booked some pretty sweet wins of late.
The play isn't great, and the winning regs all seem to be nitty (only 3 bet KK+, seen them flat AK a bunch now), why the losing players are just degenerate bad. The bet sizing is horrendous, and few seem to understand pot or implied odds.

I've decided to keep the bankrolls, online and live, separate. Not sure why, maybe this is a good question to start off with. But here are the questions I do have.

Considering, the game when is good time to quit. My bankroll is around 2k, but like I said this isn't fixed. I have other money, online, savings etc.

How deep should I play in these 1/2 games? 600-800 seems super deep to me, but I guess it is standard for live. Should I play deeper than this? Playing PLO online, it plays deeper than NL online so I've played a bunch 300bb deep, so I know what adjustments to make not to risk it all certain situations.
Do any good winning regs have a certain quit point? I have not just flushed a huge stack yet, but I am trying to avoid doing that.

I usually pick up if i have more than 20% of my BR on the table.

If you know you're not willing to get it in with anything short of the nuts AND the game is playing in such a manner that your stack can be leveraged at any point -- that's when its time to go.

For example, I had many sessions early in my 1/2 career where I was 1k deep but would never dream of getting it in, but I didn't have to pick up because nobody there was going to put me in difficult situations to risk my entire stack, if anybody even covered me at all.

Nowadays I wouldn't dream of leaving a super-loose-aggressive deep table and know I'd be able to handle the high variance of getting 300bbs in with 1 pair sometimes. But that's because I'm rolled for it. Don't put yourself in super-high variance spots if you don't have the roll to sustain it

I usually get up if I have 10-15 percent in play.

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....to be clear, that is assuming it's at risk, right? With a 4k roll, I wouldn't mind having 1k on the table if the next biggest stack was 300.

People obsess over risk of ruin from the cards... much more likely life bites your roll, not poker

- medical
- family
- women
- cars / home
- degen habits (drugs, pit, sports betting)
- theft

... about the only people immune to the life risk are those with high paying jobs. And for those people, you don't need a roll for LLSNL

If you are a winning full time player - poker is not going to sink you, everything else might

Go search google for a list of banks that refund atm fees and also research the atm limits. I don't carry much on my person (~3BI). If I'm low I hit my free local bank atm before I get to the casino and then, if I need to, I can hit the atm at the casino with the reimbursement account.

You should consider requesting a copy of your information returns from the IRS.

I recently requested several years of IRS income info and yes any reported W2G income from casinos was on there. So this is good advice.

Due to a drastic change in my work schedule, I've been absent from the boards. Very little time to play cards these past few months. Thankfully, my schedule has since been adjusted, which has made room for poker again.

I was only able to log five sessions in about 80 days. I actually finished my longest losing streak during that streak (6 losers in a row).

I've crossed the 500-hour mark, which has taken about 20 months. It's a long time for us recreational players. Still a long way before I can eclipse 1000 hours.

502 hours, 45 minutes
$22.11/hour
$11,115 earned
93 sessions played

Win rate is still over $20, which is good. Though it has dropped a little over a $1 since my last update about 170 hours ago. My session winning percentage is pretty low too, at 65.6%.

I can attest that being active on the forums and studying is a huge part to playing my best. Hope everyone is running well!

Why do you think that is a low session winning %? Over a similar sample, mine is slightly lower despite having longer average sessions and a higher win-rate (so far)

Regardless, the stat isn't very interesting, so I wouldn't worry if it is high or low.

Mine is 52% and I'm doing fine. Dumb stat that has more to do with playing style than win rate.

A more meaningful stat would be average wins vs average losses.

If they're about the same, maybe because you're staying too long to chase back losses.

If loss is above win, maybe you need to stay longer when you're winning.

If win is above loss, you're awesome!

Yeah, probably poor word choice on my part. I'm not discouraged by my number of winning/losing sessions, just noticed my percentage has dipped lately.

If your average wins and losses are the same, then obviously % matters. If not, then % doesn't matter.

% becomes the effect in the cause and effect relationship, hence it really doesn't matter.

Win / loss % doesn't technically matter but if I had a choice between

a) Win $500 on Monday..lose $100 on Tuesday
b) Win $200 on Monday..win $200 on Tuesday

I'll take B.

Get a job.

Is that choice "C"? I'll stick with choice "B"