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Winrates, bankrolls, and finances Winrates, bankrolls, and finances
View Poll Results: What is your Win Rate in terms of BB per Housr
Less than 0 (losing)
5 6.41%
0-2.5
0 0%
2.5-5
6 7.69%
5-7.5
8 10.26%
7.5-10
15 19.23%
10+
26 33.33%
Not enough sample size/I don't know
18 23.08%

03-08-2018 , 02:44 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by NeA
You don't need 4000 hours to have proof that someone's crushing a game, do you even variance calculators?

I have won 16.5bb/hr in 18300 hands with a std dev bb/100 of 210 at 1/2 NLHE. There's a ~97.7% chance I have an EV bb/hr of at least 10. I'm not in the top ~2.3% of rungood and I'm a better player now than I was before so I'm pretty sure that makes me a 10bb/hr winner. I play deepstacked against a fairly small player pool in a somewhat decent game so that is advantageous for me but aiming at >10bb/hr at 1/2 should be a realistic goal for a lot of players.
Please don't make me post my first 2000 hours winrate vs my last 2000 hours winrate again (it's too embarrassing).

Gcongratsonyourfirst610hoursatyourdeepstackgame,im oG
Winrates, bankrolls, and finances Quote
03-08-2018 , 03:15 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by niceguy22
I would disagree with this. A few thousand hours will very often accurately show the edge you had (or didn't have) over your opponents during that time.
You are not running the full gamut of hand distributions and all their permutations over a few thousand hours - not even close.

If you think about all the possible outcomes there are in a normal distribution, the majority of them are clustered around the middle. This is where you are realizing your edge - calling a river bet with 35% accuracy when you need to be good 30% of the time. Things like that that are highly repetitive and add or remove fractional amounts from your win rate.

Then you have the entire subset of hands that occur on the tails - scenarios that only come up every 250, 500, 1000, 2000+ hours. Think about how long it would take to experience all of those fluky scenarios *AND* achieve an EV of those outcomes. It would likely take a lifetime (if not more).

My guess is if everyone always ran at exactly EV there would be a lot less people and money in this game because there would be an enormous cluster of people around break even wondering what the hell they are doing wasting their time playing this game.

People here for some reason ignore the tails which is where the majority of your win rate comes from. There's a reason nobody is sitting around playing chess for money like they are poker - because there is no variance in chess. Variance is the entire foundation that poker is built on.
Winrates, bankrolls, and finances Quote
03-08-2018 , 03:37 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by johnnyBuz
You are not running the full gamut of hand distributions and all their permutations over a few thousand hours - not even close.

If you think about all the possible outcomes there are in a normal distribution, the majority of them are clustered around the middle. This is where you are realizing your edge - calling a river bet with 35% accuracy when you need to be good 30% of the time. Things like that that are highly repetitive and add or remove fractional amounts from your win rate.

Then you have the entire subset of hands that occur on the tails - scenarios that only come up every 250, 500, 1000, 2000+ hours. Think about how long it would take to experience all of those fluky scenarios *AND* achieve an EV of those outcomes. It would likely take a lifetime (if not more).

My guess is if everyone always ran at exactly EV there would be a lot less people and money in this game because there would be an enormous cluster of people around break even wondering what the hell they are doing wasting their time playing this game.

People here for some reason ignore the tails which is where the majority of your win rate comes from. There's a reason nobody is sitting around playing chess for money like they are poker - because there is no variance in chess. Variance is the entire foundation that poker is built on.
I see what you're saying. But even losing 2 - 1000bb pots that you had 99% in each, over 3000 hrs, only turns a 10bb / hr winner into a 8.6bb/ hr winner. And that's pretty much a worst case scenario
Winrates, bankrolls, and finances Quote
03-08-2018 , 03:40 PM
You are not counting a lot of important variables other than luck that is making your last 2K hours much worse than your first 2K hours. The fact that you are unwilling to acknowledge other variables shows your closed mind set to improving your winrate.
Winrates, bankrolls, and finances Quote
03-08-2018 , 03:50 PM
GG, your casual use of the word rape is pretty upsetting. Maybe consider removing that from your lexicon.
Winrates, bankrolls, and finances Quote
03-08-2018 , 03:51 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by johnnyBuz
Then you have the entire subset of hands that occur on the tails - scenarios that only come up every 250, 500, 1000, 2000+ hours. Think about how long it would take to experience all of those fluky scenarios *AND* achieve an EV of those outcomes. It would likely take a lifetime (if not more).
The example I ran into recently during my big downswing was having my 77 vs 55 lose on a J75 flop (getting in a BI+ on the flop). Basically I'd have to set over set someone ~49 other times and win them all in order to run at EV. Considering it would take multiple lifetimes to get that many set-over-set examples, I'm doomed to running -EV in this particular situation. Course, I've likely already guaranteed myself lifetime +EV in other situations which I've run good in, so some of these probably balance out.

ETA: And considering that set-over-set case that didn't work out in my favour cost me about 2 BI in a year where I won 17 BI, you quickly see what a massive affect these outlier events can have.

Gbutstill,validpoint,imoG
Winrates, bankrolls, and finances Quote
03-08-2018 , 03:52 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ranma4703
GG, your casual use of the word rape is pretty upsetting. Maybe consider removing that from your lexicon.
No offense intended; I'll try to remember that going forward.

GcluelessoffensivenoobG
Winrates, bankrolls, and finances Quote
03-08-2018 , 03:56 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by gobbledygeek
Anyhoo, no one else has attempted it and I didn't want to leave brown's attempt hanging, so here's my attempt, which will lead to my point.

If like most (say 80%) of pots go to maximum rake, then I initially guessed like 2 hands won per hour for a tight player, so each $1 increase affects the winrate by $1.60.

But then I began thinking about what happens when we stack someone. If they have more than us, only our effective stack is in play, but of course it's $1.60 shorter per hour that we've played (costing us that much when we stack them). If their stack is less than ours and brand new (thus not being affected by rake), there's no extra raping. But if their stack is less than ours and has been at the table a while, it's being raped over that time and now we lose money when we stack them. If mean, if it's been there 4 hours and they are a loose player winning 3 hands per hour then that's another $2.40/hr we're losing when we stack them. But then there stack is only getting raped if they're winning (and yet are shorter than us, which might be difficult); of course, they coulda lost most of their stack to a shorter stack (but then they didn't lose as much due to that shorter stack also being raped). Anyways, I really had the confuses attempting it this way and really had no idea how much to add on for rake raping in stacking situations.

So instead I simply said 30 hands per hour, 80% reaching max rake, our fair share of that at a 10 handed table is $2.40 / hr per $1 increase. Of course that doesn't tell the whole story either cuz as the $1 increase in rake goes up then the percentage of pots reaching the maximum rake goes down. But, all in all, I figured that at for each $1 increase in rake that costs us approximately $2.50 to our bottom line. I can be convinced otherwise.

So, what does that mean for our 10bb/hr crusher at 1/3 NL? Well, if his game moves from a $5 maximum rake to $7 maximum rake, that means he's lost $5/hr off his winrate, which now puts him at 8.3 bb/hr. The 2/5 NL crusher drops to 9 bb/hr. But what about the lowly 1/2 NL crusher? He drops to 7.5 bb/hr. Now of course this might not be totally accurate either as the 80%-of-pots-reach-maximum-rake was dealing with a 1/3 NL example, so likely the 1/2 NL pots won't reach them as often (although if you think the game plays much worse then it might be fairly close).

So, a mere $2 increase in rake (all other conditions staying exactly the same) is annoyance for the 2/5 NL crusher (costs him 10% of his winrate), but for the lowly 1/2 NL player it's devastating: it costs him 25% of his winrate.

Now what about those 7 bb/hr solid players? The 2/5 player loses 14% downgrading to 6 bb/hr. The 1/2 NL player? His winrate takes a 36% loss, and now he's a toiling at a pedestrain 4.5 bb/hr (read some books, amirite?).

The same sorta thing can be discussed in terms of what percentage of the average pot rake makes up. The smaller the game and the smaller the pot, the more damaging the rake is. The lines between crushing vs doing ok vs even beating the game become much much thinner.

This is the only point I'm attempting to state. Having a blanket claim that 10 bb/hr is achievable in "low steaks live pokr" is lazy and misleading (and, from everything I've seen produced in this thread, totally unsubstantiated). What's achievable at a 2/5 NL 200+ BI game isn't going to be close to what is going to be achievable at a 1/2 NL 100 BI game.

That's all I'm saying. Really have no idea why some think this is controversial.

GcluelesscontroversialnoobG
Solid reasoning GG. I'm curious how you get bashed on this one.
Winrates, bankrolls, and finances Quote
03-08-2018 , 06:04 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by johnnyBuz
You are not running the full gamut of hand distributions and all their permutations over a few thousand hours - not even close.

If you think about all the possible outcomes there are in a normal distribution, the majority of them are clustered around the middle. This is where you are realizing your edge - calling a river bet with 35% accuracy when you need to be good 30% of the time. Things like that that are highly repetitive and add or remove fractional amounts from your win rate.

Then you have the entire subset of hands that occur on the tails - scenarios that only come up every 250, 500, 1000, 2000+ hours. Think about how long it would take to experience all of those fluky scenarios *AND* achieve an EV of those outcomes. It would likely take a lifetime (if not more).

My guess is if everyone always ran at exactly EV there would be a lot less people and money in this game because there would be an enormous cluster of people around break even wondering what the hell they are doing wasting their time playing this game.

People here for some reason ignore the tails which is where the majority of your win rate comes from. There's a reason nobody is sitting around playing chess for money like they are poker - because there is no variance in chess. Variance is the entire foundation that poker is built on.
It sounds to me like what you're essentially saying is that sample variance/standard deviation (and therefore standard error and confidence intervals) are not accurate at all unless you have many thousands of hours of play logged...

Yes, there are some long tails in the profit (per hand) distribution. But IMO, all of this evens out in a way that's "close enough" before too long. Like that rare 300BB spot does not need to average out exactly if you've got a bunch of 100 BB spots in your history.

So using plain old statistics stuff is fine. If statistics tells us (by assuming normality in the distribution and looking at sample standard deviation) that we are 85% or 96% or whatever probability likely to be a 10BB winner over the past 1000 hours, then I think those numbers are about as good as it gets.

This does not account for changing game conditions, though. Just because we played as a 10BB/hour winner over the past 1000 hours does not mean that the same play will allow us to be a 10BB/hour winner over the next 1000 hours... It also does not account for our playing strength increasing or decreasing over time.
Winrates, bankrolls, and finances Quote
03-08-2018 , 06:26 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by gobbledygeek
Anyhoo, no one else has attempted it and I didn't want to leave brown's attempt hanging, so here's my attempt, which will lead to my point.

If like most (say 80%) of pots go to maximum rake, then I initially guessed like 2 hands won per hour for a tight player, so each $1 increase affects the winrate by $1.60.

But then I began thinking about what happens when we stack someone. If they have more than us, only our effective stack is in play, but of course it's $1.60 shorter per hour that we've played (costing us that much when we stack them). If their stack is less than ours and brand new (thus not being affected by rake), there's no extra raping. But if their stack is less than ours and has been at the table a while, it's being raped over that time and now we lose money when we stack them. If mean, if it's been there 4 hours and they are a loose player winning 3 hands per hour then that's another $2.40/hr we're losing when we stack them. But then there stack is only getting raped if they're winning (and yet are shorter than us, which might be difficult); of course, they coulda lost most of their stack to a shorter stack (but then they didn't lose as much due to that shorter stack also being raped). Anyways, I really had the confuses attempting it this way and really had no idea how much to add on for rake raping in stacking situations.

So instead I simply said 30 hands per hour, 80% reaching max rake, our fair share of that at a 10 handed table is $2.40 / hr per $1 increase. Of course that doesn't tell the whole story either cuz as the $1 increase in rake goes up then the percentage of pots reaching the maximum rake goes down. But, all in all, I figured that at for each $1 increase in rake that costs us approximately $2.50 to our bottom line. I can be convinced otherwise.

So, what does that mean for our 10bb/hr crusher at 1/3 NL? Well, if his game moves from a $5 maximum rake to $7 maximum rake, that means he's lost $5/hr off his winrate, which now puts him at 8.3 bb/hr. The 2/5 NL crusher drops to 9 bb/hr. But what about the lowly 1/2 NL crusher? He drops to 7.5 bb/hr. Now of course this might not be totally accurate either as the 80%-of-pots-reach-maximum-rake was dealing with a 1/3 NL example, so likely the 1/2 NL pots won't reach them as often (although if you think the game plays much worse then it might be fairly close).

So, a mere $2 increase in rake (all other conditions staying exactly the same) is annoyance for the 2/5 NL crusher (costs him 10% of his winrate), but for the lowly 1/2 NL player it's devastating: it costs him 25% of his winrate.

Now what about those 7 bb/hr solid players? The 2/5 player loses 14% downgrading to 6 bb/hr. The 1/2 NL player? His winrate takes a 36% loss, and now he's a toiling at a pedestrain 4.5 bb/hr (read some books, amirite?).

The same sorta thing can be discussed in terms of what percentage of the average pot rake makes up. The smaller the game and the smaller the pot, the more damaging the rake is. The lines between crushing vs doing ok vs even beating the game become much much thinner.

This is the only point I'm attempting to state. Having a blanket claim that 10 bb/hr is achievable in "low steaks live pokr" is lazy and misleading (and, from everything I've seen produced in this thread, totally unsubstantiated). What's achievable at a 2/5 NL 200+ BI game isn't going to be close to what is going to be achievable at a 1/2 NL 100 BI game.

That's all I'm saying. Really have no idea why some think this is controversial.

GcluelesscontroversialnoobG
GG, this stuff about rake impacting villains before you play a hand with them is kinda irrelevant... Like, sure, rake can globally affect game conditions. It ultimately removes money from the poker economy at large. But your villains have the option to put more money down on the table. And what about when this high rake causes a villain to bust and leave the poker room and allows for a whale/donator to come join the table? Won't the people who donate the most stick around the longest when the rake is higher? Surely, that's a good thing.

No I don't actually think increasing rake will have benefits to your winrate. But my point is if your villains are staying short in the game, then yeah that's a meaningful variable, but it's separate from rake, even though the two things may be loosely related.

I think I read in a previous post that you're dropping up to $7 and most villains have between $100 and $150, many with less? Then yeah, that's just awful game conditions. I wouldn't play it... Despite that, my guess is that a good player probably *still* could win over 10BBs / hour - especially since you described the game as a passive limp-fest.
Winrates, bankrolls, and finances Quote
03-08-2018 , 06:39 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by pocketzeroes
GG, this stuff about rake impacting villains before you play a hand with them is kinda irrelevant... Like, sure, rake can globally affect game conditions. It ultimately removes money from the poker economy at large. But your villains have the option to put more money down on the table. And what about when this high rake causes a villain to bust and leave the poker room and allows for a whale/donator to come join the table? Won't the people who donate the most stick around the longest when the rake is higher? Surely, that's a good thing.

No I don't actually think increasing rake will have benefits to your winrate. But my point is if your villains are staying short in the game, then yeah that's a meaningful variable, but it's separate from rake, even though the two things may be loosely related.

I think I read in a previous post that you're dropping up to $7 and most villains have between $100 and $150, many with less? Then yeah, that's just awful game conditions. I wouldn't play it... Despite that, my guess is that a good player probably *still* could win over 10BBs / hour - especially since you described the game as a passive limp-fest.
I don't believe rake has any factor whatsoever on who plays at the table if all rooms in the area have similar rakes / steaks. The lone exception might be people attempting to play professionally who eventually realize it's not worth the effort compared to other money-making options (I can think of a few people off the top of my head that may fit this bill assuming that's what their recent disappearance from the scene means).

My game is not a passive limp-fest. I did a 10 session 10 hour sample last year where 2/3 of pots are raised at non crazy/maniac tables and think that's likely a fairly accurate description of how many pots are limped vs raised.

GcluelessNLnoobG
Winrates, bankrolls, and finances Quote
03-08-2018 , 07:03 PM
GG where do you play? I'll be sure to never play poker in your area.
Winrates, bankrolls, and finances Quote
03-08-2018 , 07:11 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by LordRiverRat
GG where do you play? I'll be sure to never play poker in your area.
Do you think things will stay the same as they are in your area?

If so, why?

Gnothinginthepokerscenehaseverstayedthesame;expect ingittodosoisdelusional,imoG
Winrates, bankrolls, and finances Quote
03-08-2018 , 08:02 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by LordRiverRat
GG where do you play? I'll be sure to never play poker in your area.
Why??....if GG can make $21 per hour....how bad could it be?
Winrates, bankrolls, and finances Quote
03-08-2018 , 08:25 PM
You guys have no idea how badly I want to move to GGs area and play in his poker room for a while.
Winrates, bankrolls, and finances Quote
03-08-2018 , 08:25 PM
GG, next time you go play, start a $2/5 1k max interest list and ask players at your 1/3 game if they wanna play 2/5.

seems like that's an easy way to out pace the rake dontchathink?

DCifyoubuildittheywillspewFT
Winrates, bankrolls, and finances Quote
03-09-2018 , 01:57 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeStarr
You guys have no idea how badly I want to move to GGs area and play in his poker room for a while.
It is the Frozen North. It will probably kill your Florida accustomed ass.

Warm weather all year = 2bb/hr WR. Easy.
Winrates, bankrolls, and finances Quote
03-09-2018 , 06:56 AM
I'm very recently getting back into live play, I hadn't played at a casino in over 4 years prior to last week. Trying to seriously beat $1/2 NL for the first time in my life, I was always primarily a limit player in the days of abundant online US poker. If only I lived in California or Nevada, I wouldn't have to try to get good at no limit

I was just thinking about my last 2 sessions. The first one I got up to about double my buyin (100 BB buyin), my session was growing long and I glanced around at the table. 2 solid players matched my stack and the bad or mediocre players all had 50 BB or less. I got up and left.

Then, my most recent one, I had tripled up my buyin (100 BB buyin). One probable pro/semi-pro had me covered and 2 other middling players had probably 200 BBs. I got up and left.

I set aside a very limited amount of money for my current poker foray, an amount that wouldn't hurt me in any real way if it was lost. But the limited amount means I really need to reduce variance when I can. I feel like when I get up to 200 BBs, I really shouldn't play anymore unless all or most of the other large stacks are poor players. I don't want to play like scared money but I also don't want to risk playing for stacks when I have multiple buyins on the table against strong players.

I'm just spit-balling, sorry if this is kind of a thought salad. What do you guys think? Should I be ashamed to leave for 30 minutes (or whatever the rule is) and start fresh when I run it up?
Winrates, bankrolls, and finances Quote
03-09-2018 , 07:31 AM
Yes, you should be. Either leave for the day or buy back for what you left with.

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03-09-2018 , 07:46 AM
Consider for a second your own observations; the good players play deep and the fish play shallow. Which one are you?

The truth is you will never have game changing nights, weeks, months, or seasons without playing as deep as you can possibly get. You can have career changing sessions that put you so far ahead in terms of winrate that you are able to withstand any future downswings for quite awhile. Those 50BB fish still have a collective 200BB on the table worth taking. So dont butt heads with the regs, or go after them when you have the advantage such as being in position. It's not like they're so significantly better than you that they're going to pull out all the tricks and chip away at your stack until you're back to 100BB's.

You wont do well long term if you only win 100BB on your best nights, because it is very easy to lose more than that on your worst nights, repeatedly. Your results graph needs to have big upswings to counter those big downswings. What you should really be doing is setting a stop loss, not a stop win. Play until you start screwing up. Last night I punted 2 buyins at 2/5 live, once when villain check-raised into 2 of us on a dry flop so I called with TPTK and we got it in on the turn. The other was when I misread the board not realizing my opponent could have likely a ton more equity on a turn card that I put him allin and got snapped off by the nuts. I was getting sloppy and immediately quit. I still ended the session 200BB's in profit.

Just force yourself to get comfortable playing deep. Set yourself something like a 200BB stoploss so even if you're up 1000BB's you quit if at any point you donate 200 of that back.
Winrates, bankrolls, and finances Quote
03-09-2018 , 07:51 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by xSlingshot66
Yes, you should be. Either leave for the day or buy back for what you left with.

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I usually do leave for the day because it's typically been hours at this point. However, I don't really see the harm in taking a break to reduce my variance. Putting in a stop win when being a large stack isn't particularly advantageous seems smart, especially when you're on a limited roll. Your entire stack is always at risk in NL, and once you win money, it's yours after all. If I'm playing with $600 in a $1/2 game with lots of other $600 stacks, it's not all that much better than if I were to just buyin full to a $2/$5, which I would never do on my limited roll.
Winrates, bankrolls, and finances Quote
03-09-2018 , 07:59 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by javi
Consider for a second your own observations; the good players play deep and the fish play shallow. Which one are you?

The truth is you will never have game changing nights, weeks, months, or seasons without playing as deep as you can possibly get. You can have career changing sessions that put you so far ahead in terms of winrate that you are able to withstand any future downswings for quite awhile. Those 50BB fish still have a collective 200BB on the table worth taking. So dont butt heads with the regs, or go after them when you have the advantage such as being in position. It's not like they're so significantly better than you that they're going to pull out all the tricks and chip away at your stack until you're back to 100BB's.

You wont do well long term if you only win 100BB on your best nights, because it is very easy to lose more than that on your worst nights, repeatedly. Your results graph needs to have big upswings to counter those big downswings. What you should really be doing is setting a stop loss, not a stop win. Play until you start screwing up. Last night I punted 2 buyins at 2/5 live, once when villain check-raised into 2 of us on a dry flop so I called with TPTK and we got it in on the turn. The other was when I misread the board not realizing my opponent could have likely a ton more equity on a turn card that I put him allin and got snapped off by the nuts. I was getting sloppy and immediately quit. I still ended the session 200BB's in profit.

Just force yourself to get comfortable playing deep. Set yourself something like a 200BB stoploss so even if you're up 1000BB's you quit if at any point you donate 200 of that back.
You're absolutely right that it's not optimal to quit just because I have a lot of chips if I have an edge in the game, but risk of ruin has to take precedence over maximizing value. I disagree with your observation that you have to be willing to play super deep to be a winning player, that's simply not true. You could potentially buy-in with 25BBs and play raise-shove poker and leave every time you double profitably. Very boring way to play though and there's not much money in it.
Winrates, bankrolls, and finances Quote
03-09-2018 , 08:00 AM
#1 Rule of Gambling: Leave while you're ahead
#1 Rule of Poker: Table selection
#1 Rule of Life: Listen to your instincts

If you are happy with a 50 or 100BB win, then leave, nothing wrong with that and I wish I'd done that lot's of times.

If the regs are dominating the table and it doesn't feel profitable, leave.
A $50 win is a lot better than a $100 loss. Sometimes small ball is good.
Winrates, bankrolls, and finances Quote
03-09-2018 , 08:40 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Angrist
It is the Frozen North. It will probably kill your Florida accustomed ass.

Warm weather all year = 2bb/hr WR. Easy.
Maybe I could become a snowbird?
Winrates, bankrolls, and finances Quote
03-09-2018 , 09:10 AM
There’s nothing wrong with leaving a table when you’re deep stacked and the only other deep stacks are better players. That’s simply good game selection. But this really shouldn’t happen that often at 1-2, and if you find yourself getting up too frequently, then maybe you’re just playing scared.

A nine-handed table can still be good even if you have a significant skill disadvantage against two other players, as long as there are also a couple of spots at the table. Just stay out of the way of the good players. If you’re a winning player, they won’t be seeking you out either.

Also, you’re probably greatly overestimating how good your opponents are if you think you are routinely facing multiple strong players are 1-2 or 1-3. It just doesn’t happen that often. And when it happens in my rooms (The M8trix and Bay101), it’s because they’re waiting for the 2-5 game and in another 30 minutes or so they’ll leave the table anyway. Just wait them out.

Finally, there are other options besides packing up and going home. If your room is big enough, you can ask the floor for a table change. Or the next time someone in a better position gets up, you can ask for a seat change closer to the left of the good player. He’d have to be quite a bit better than you to make up for a positional disadvantage six or seven out of nine hands dealt, especially if you’re both deep.


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