dude that's awesome, nice job

I am familiar with the treacherous ways of mtt variance. I am just curious about the stats i asked because live is far softer.

Hey guys, Bit of an interesting spot for me developing in bankroll management.

Poker is my main source of income and my current roll is around 12k. 1/2 is my main game.

At the end of the month a casino will be opening up just 10 miles from my house and should prove to host some good action. the current casino I go to is slighty over 2.5x the distance from my house and while the games are generally good the selection is slim and they do not run 247.

The smallest game this new casino will spread is a 1/3 300 cap.

Lets assume my roll is the same 12k by the time they open for simplicity purposes.

What should we do?

A) Continue to grind the 1/2 and deal with the extra gas/miles and poor game variety

B) Short stack the 1/3 at the new casino for $200 buy ins

C) Buy in full at the new casinos 1/3 which would cut our bankroll by 1/3rd to 40BI

And if the answer is C is it plausible to

D) Buy in short at the 2/5 in the new casino?

Any advice or recommendations are incredibly appreciated!

If I had 12K br there's no way that I'm not playing 2/5.

I would say either B or C. Try to get a feel for how good these games at the new place are, and how they change at different times. Also try observing or even min buying at 2/5. Leave no stone unturned

Isn't 1/2 at your current room 300 max?

New place will be a different kind of soft.

You'll be really short at 2/5 800 max.

It is 300 max at my current 1/2 but probably 90% of my buy ins are 100bb. I find that the game generally does not play big enough to top off the extra 50bb

If you are a solid winner, it looks as if it s an overabundance of caution to fear that 12 thousand isnt enough.

Buy in full at 1/3.

Play the 2/5 when the game looks good

+1. 40BIs are more than plenty at low stakes.

From my experience, the raise sizes at 1/3 aren't too different from 1/2 so if you're not comfortable buying in for $300, $200 should be fine. But surely you've played 150bb deep at 1/2 before? I also think $12k is plenty large for a full buy-in at 1/3.

Casinos vary.
But at all the casinos that I have played in 1/3 raises are certainly different than 1/2 raise sizes. A normal opening raise in 1/2 with no limpers if $10 - $13. + $1 - $2 per limper.
At 1/3 it's $14 - $17 + $2 - $3 / limper. It's about the same in terms of big blinds but larger in absolute terms.

I'm a fairly new player so take this for what it's worth....

I have short stacked 1/2 for a couple dozen hours. Is it profitable? Definitely. But it's boring and much less profitable than deep stack. Your giving up tons of situations where you would win big pots or stack someone by short stacking. It's not hard to get your money in +EV at the low stakes. Giving up the ability to set mine, or play SCs is a major pitfall. I recall numerous situations where I know I would have stacked someone if I were deep but ended up folding preflop hands that I would have played normally.

People pay you off with crap when you get it in with monsters. I can't remember the last time I shoved 1/2 short stacking and didn't have at least a 10%+ edge.

So I would either short stack 2/5 or even better play full stacked 1/2 or 1/3. The players are bad enough(I only play on weekends, FWIW) that I really think deep stacked is better if your decent at poker. At higher stakes I do think short stacking would work until they catch on to what your doing.

I recently started buying in for the min at every table I sit down for. I go a few orbits and try and learn the players before buying in deep. Since the behavior of the players doesn't really change your playstyle when short-stacking, you can just focus on reading them and getting a rough idea of who the fish and sharks are. Then put down your full stack. You just need to be able to change from short stacking to deep stacking in an instant.

My opinion, buy in full at 1/3.

It's a perfect scenario to gradually ease your way into 2/5. You've been playing 100bb 1/2 now you can use 100bb 1/3 as a step up. Once you are comfortable with that take some shots at the 2/5 game. When one shot hits stick there. GL

This exactly. IMO never play a game with < max buy-in.

Buyin for 100BB at 1/3. It probably doesn't seem like a big difference now, but it is a huge difference from 1/2. You'll probably notice a diminishing return on BB/hour as you move up stakes, but I think the first decrease comes at 500NL. Whatever BB/hour you make at 1/2, you'll probably make the same at 1/3, and it's 50% more $. 40 BI is plenty at the lowest stakes, variance increases as the stakes increase: 1/2 & 1/3 aren't too swingy.

So far you have not been given good advice.

What are your monthly volume targets and your monthly life expenses?

What is your life roll? Does the $12k encompass your combined life roll +poker roll?

Standard BRM states that you need to have 6 months of expenses saved up as your emergency savings (this could come out of a separate life roll). Then, you probably need $6k dedicated for 1/3 NL grind or $10k dedicated for 2/5 NL grind. Numbers needed go up if you are only a smaller winner at those stakes and/or you play a high variance style.

All the above assumes that you are a winning player.

The 12k is almost everything. I have a monthly nut of only a few hundred dollars. So I don't bother keeping a desperate life roll. I could make 1000 dollars last 6 months if need be. My wife has a decent job too.

I suppose I have some things that could be sold if life ever got hairy.

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Keep a separate life roll. At this stage, be a bankroll nit. Build a cushion so you can shot take in comfort when your separate poker bankroll reaches the point where you can lose 2-3BI (at higher stakes) without "feeling" it. (Set clear goals with realistic expectations). In my experience, people who play with a combined roll play in fear. That's their rent/mortgage on the line, after all. Scared money may as well be a table donation, IMO.

Make sure your liferoll has the requisite 6 months, etc.

I've had 3 situations arise in last year where my bankroll (which is used to find unexpected and emergency issues that arise... part if an arrangement I have with my wife) has taken an unexpected 20 BI hit.

There are some thing you just can plan for, so you better plan for them.

Hi guys , another boring question about average Winrate. What would a good player average in a &euro;2/4 game?
Average stacks is 100 BB and there are always 1-3 big fishes at the table .
Rake Is as follows :

- 0&euro; Rake when the pot is <75&euro;
- 5&euro; Rake, when the pot is 75 - 250 &euro;
- 10&euro; if 250 - 750
- 15&euro; if 750 - 1250
- 20&euro; if 1250 - 1750
- 25&euro; if 1750 - 2250

I know the Rake sucks but it's the best I can found in my area atm (germanys casinos sucks).

Do you think the game is beatable ?

In my area run another 2/4, with Rake 10% cap 10 Euro und max buy in 200BB. Do you think Is this game better or worse als the other one ? Player pool and skills are the same .

Sorry for the bad English !

I think the first game mentioned is a better rake structure.

I don't know much about European games but I'm gonna guess that 25-30/hr is solid with 40 probably being the max.

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Currently mired in my worst flatline and downswing at live 1/3NL:

Flatline: -$627 over last 154.5 hours (18 sessions, 10 wins vs 8 losses, -$4.06/hr)

Downswing: -$1967 over last 44.3 hours (-$44.40/hr)

Apparently, **** can happen. Who knew?

Goverall$28.53/hrover1818hoursG

It'll turn around eventually. Use this downer as motivation to improve your game though based on your posts, you seem pretty solid.

Your monthly nut is a few hundred dollars and you are married. Do you live in Eastern Europe or something?