So - I am in a bit of a quadry here about playing a flush draw in your "typical" 1/2 NL game.
First - let me describe "typical" here in Southen California. I play in casinos where 1/1 or 1/2 is anywhere from 20BB to 40BB buy in. For the majority of the players, position hs something to do with sex, and any two cards will play. It is pretty much impossible to put any range of hands on any player (e.g., last night, I was sucked out by the BB who came in on a 97o *after* I PFR with KJs, c bet the flop after hitting two pair (KJ) and shoved the turn. He hit his inside straight draw on the river). I play tight, but for most of the folks I play with, this really doesn't mean aything.
Here's my question - say I am out of position. I am working on a flush draw - say nuts or 2nd nuts post flop. Do I lead out with a bet? How large? Check it back and get a free card? How do most of you that are profitable at the 1/2 level play this?
Now - say I am in late position. Same deal. Checks around to me. Do I lead out with a bet? How large? Equity portion of the pot? Or do I check it back for a ree card? A shove probably will not result in folds, and in fact may result in at least 2 callers.
Thanks for your help. I *really* do want to get better, but I need to build some BR playing at this level for a while....
Really? TPTK often doesn't fly becuase it gets sucked out quite often. If you read the post, note how it says nut or 2nd nut draw because if I'm playing it's a AKs or an AQs. AJs is not in my opening range on these tables....
To clarify, you shouldn't be playing any suited cards, really. With stacks this short (compared to 100bb) suitedness becomes a lot less valuable and high-card strength is exaggerated. As such the only flushdraws you should ever find yourself holding are FD+overs, which should give you enough equity to shove.
what i'm saying is that with 20-40BB stacks flushdraws lose their value.
Hmm. Now you've caught my attention. I understand your point, because often on these tables, TPMK causes a 1/2 pot bet to occur. So you're saying that you would check it down unless you flop a flush with these type of hands?
Hmm. Now you've caught my attention. I understand your point, because often on these tables, TPMK causes a 1/2 pot bet to occur. So you're saying that you would check it down unless you flop a flush with these type of hands?
like Kurt said, if you have FD + overs, its not bad to just shove. You should stop playing hands like 9Ts or 78s since at 40BBs they are not profitable.
like Kurt said, if you have FD + overs, its not bad to just shove. You should stop playing hands like 9Ts or 78s since at 40BBs they are not profitable.
Boy. Been there done that. The only way I play those is if I'm in a blind and itgets limped to me. Then I'll limp along.
To clarify, you shouldn't be playing any suited cards, really. With stacks this short (compared to 100bb) suitedness becomes a lot less valuable and high-card strength is exaggerated. As such the only flushdraws you should ever find yourself holding are FD+overs, which should give you enough equity to shove.
To clarify, you shouldn't be playing any suited cards, really. With stacks this short (compared to 100bb) suitedness becomes a lot less valuable and high-card strength is exaggerated. As such the only flushdraws you should ever find yourself holding are FD+overs, which should give you enough equity to shove.
