Quote:
Originally Posted by feel wrath
15 foot waves at my home beach today.
Have been sitting on the headland watching them come in all morning. It’s transfixing. Half a dozen surfers out - there’d be more but it’s almost impossible to paddle out
I learned the basics of surfing at one point, but the paddling out part has always been my bane. Other had difficulty popping up or catching waves, but my problem was just getting to the waves. Because of that, I often surfed the shore break, which tended to end in getting ground against the sand.