Oh ok. 10% capped at $6 is cheaper than most casinos so I agree. Just saw the dollar amount and didn't know what to do with it. Good luck.

This is what I do but realize this makes the variance surreal and you basically don’t have a winrate anymore. Just a recreational start of year and end of year “how much money do I have” view.

One of the last times I played I lost the equivalent of a used car. Back when I was pumping out 100hrs a month I would have shrugged this off and grinded it back over the next month or so...but since I only play once every few months now...I still toss and turn at night from that session sometimes.

Yeah, I realize that. Spending lots of hours in a casino isn’t high on my life enjoyment list so that’s why I would prefer bigger game/less hours. But I also make better money playing cards at 2/5 (so far) than at my “real” job so that’s difficult to pass up or ignore too. It’s a nice side gig for now, but less hours will be good.
I am pretty good at letting bad sessions go. I get most frustrated when I play really bad in the key situations of the session. That bothers me more than $ lost, but of course 3K gone in a 5/T session would def sting awhile. I don’t think I’d ever have more than that available for a single session. My stoploss is generally 2.5 buying with the .5 used mostly for top offs.

My roll is around 70k, my 1000 hour winrate is $60/hour at mostly 2/5, and I still usually skip the 5/10 game when it runs because 2/5 is more profitable AND more fun usually. 5/10 gets filled up with backpack pros and dick swinging regulars, the average raise size pre is $30, and meanwhile I'm sitting at a 2/5 table with the straddle on every third hand, preflop raises to $40 go 3-4 ways to the flop, and people are actually talking / messing around instead of staring at their phones.

But, if I wanted to swing my dick, I'd want confidence that I'm the best player at the table 95%+ of the time when I sit at 2/5, and $30,000 in my roll, for 100bb shots at 5/10. $50,000 for 200bb shots.

(I say this but I sat T/25/often straddled to $50 with a 30k roll cause the game was good; if the game is good, shot take with as much of your roll that will let you continue to play your normal stakes if you lose it all)

super duper ****ing solid advice in this response.

Also between the lines is some nice "put your phone down and make sure that game face is a smile and a laugh"

I know its beating a dead horse but I still see a lot of the younger "pro's" berating and mean mugging and just all around being boring at the table. Get involved - get a hobby or research common topics or simply be passionate about something that isnt math/poker Order a drink, take a sip and then dont drink any more - just APPEAR like you are there for the party and not for the conference.

Yeah, super solid advice by all the last few posters. Really appreciate it.
I’m usually pretty relaxed and easygoing at the table. I get along with regs and recs. Generally help with keeping the table vibe relaxed and friendly. Usually keep my phone turned off when playing unless I want to record an interesting hand, which I go for a walk to do. Usually try to talk about things that aren’t poker.
Ranma makes a good point about 2/5 often being the better game even when a 5/T is running and I’ve noticed this too. Often the 5/T game plays tight from what I’ve seen. I’ll only hop on under optimal conditions for the next few months.

I still don't get the berating of players. I think this is a form of tilt that some people just can't get a hold on and they would be a better player if they could. I actually get mad at myself if I let out a guffaw on a 3 outter or something and the player notices.

And once it becomes undeniable that you play lots of poker you gotta find a way to keep it light hearted. Find ways to deflect the loud and obnoxious guy who keeps screaming that you are a 'pro'. My most recent joke is asking a friendly rec player how many stacks do I need to punt/call off before people don't think I'm tight.

Marsh

I love it when "regs" berate crap players after a suckout, it's a perfect opportunity to make the fish feel better about himself and make the crappy reg go on tilt.
Something as simple as saying: "what do you mean he sucks etc, he's got the money hasn't he?" works great at getting the fish back in a happy mindset and the reg on monkeytilt.
Just go with the moment and get on the regs nerves while reeling the fish back into playing stupid.
Keeping a good game good is a pretty important skill to have in a live setting I'd say.

If you have to ask questions like these, you’re almost certainly not ready for 5/10. Also, don’t think anyone who’s only making 8bb/hr at 2/5 should be regularly playing 5/10 unless he’s just a rec playing for the thrill or unless he’s just thinking super long term.

8bb/hr is crushing.

I'd consider taking a shot without the proper bankroll for it anytime I'd feel comfortable spending those 1 or 2 buy ins risked on some other stupid thing.
That new set of wheels can wait another month if it means you could be making 2x as much money by taking a shot.

If this is directed at me I think it’s amusing that you’re assuming my skill level based on a very open ended question. And as Kato says 8+bb/hr long term is crushing.

LMAO!

I mean, I don’t have much of opinion on your game obviously. I just believe that if someone is asking such a question, he’s not prepared to battle regs who study the game and who’ve been grinding for many years. And no, 8bb/hr is not crushing. Most good 5t regs would have significantly higher win rates at 2/5. Nothing wrong with 8bb/hr. Still pretty solid.

^
The 5/T game doesn’t even regularly run so I play a lot of the 5/T players at 2/5. Usually some of the better 2/5 regs play the 5/T when it runs, usually some of the better 2/5 players stay at 2/5, like myself. But it’s not from feeling like I’d be overmatched at 5/T. I study. I know the game well. I was more just curious if people had opinions on how WR might correlate to the bigger game.
And I’m pretty positive the number of 12+bb/hr players at 2/5 is close to nonexistent in my room. There’s 3-4 at the very best, I’m quite sure of this.

Almost no one has the sample size to distinguish between 12bb/hr and running hot and 8bb/hr and running poor/average.

Gotcha. What are the different buy-in amounts at each level?

$500 max for 2/5. $1,500 for 5/T, but many buy in for $700-1,250.
I also think my game gets better when I’m 150+bb’s, not worse.

I will probably bring a couple $1,100 bullets, with a bit extra for top offs when I start playing it.

Oh, very nice. Those buy-ins are pretty low...making an 8bb/hr a bit more impressive.

Yeah, I definitely wish it wasn’t $500 max, but it gets 200bb deep somewhat fast.

Hi all,

I will he posting my full win rate information, graph, etc in about a few months once I reach my 1000 hours lifetime at 1/3

I am in my early-mid 20’s so don’t have a lot a ton of hours yet.

I have about 200 hours live in Las Vegas and the rest is at my hometown casino which has 5 dollar max rake and 2 for promotions.

I play for mainly a part time income type thing in addition to my day job. I definitely take the game serious and want to improve. I usually play 2-3x/week (Friday-Sunday)

Over my last 800 hours roughly (I have about 965 hours live but my last 800 I started buying in for the max-300) I am winning 19.92/hr at 1/3 and lifetime at 1/3 16.35over 882 hours(I consider myself a generous tiper and will frequently tip 2-3 dollars for pots I shouldn’t)

What is usually the missing link or missing like step to bring the winrate to about 30/hr

I know this question might not be able to be answered (not knowing how I play and stuff) I consider myself a decent TAG. I generally try and play a lot in position. ISO weak players C bet on good flops.

I am working on squeezing more IP with dead money out there.

Even if I do play great/ run good I understand my game might not be beatable for $30/hr (due to tipping, short stacks, slow play, etc)

Any 1/3 game with 100BB or more max buy in with $5 +$2 rake is beatable for $30+/hr

I remember those thousands of hours ago when I reached my 1000 hours of 1/3 NL at 9.6 bb/hr, and then my 2000 hours at 9.4 bb/hr. At that time, if someone with a 5.5 - 6.6 bb/hr winrate (like yours) woulda asked the same question, I wouldn't have naively answered something like "you're almost there, you probably just gotta plug up some leaks and tweak a few things".

But I would be embarrassed by those sorts of responses now, as I've learned that ~1000 hour sample sizes ain't ****. Like seriously, they are so lol and meaningless. You begin to realize that when you post a 1300 hour sample size of 4 bb/hr (same dude, playing the same way, in the same game, at << 1/2 winrate, wtf?). See my giraffes from a couple of months ago for lol's.

I think it was Richard Parker (or a previous incarnation of him) that sorta alluded to that to me early on (but I likely didn't listen). Really wish he was still around to follow up with him on that and give him props. If you search way back on this thread you might even find it, I'm too lazy too.

Not exactly sure what I'm trying to say, but in a rambling way I think I'm saying that there is a lot finer line than you likely realize at this point between vastly different winrates (and a lot of it will simply be variance over lol lifetime sample size). As tough as this is to say (especially from me who has a zillion different filters on my PokerJournal filtering my winrates eleventeen different ways): try not to sweat the winrate so much, as it probably doesn't mean nearly as much as you think it does.

IMO.

GgoodluckG

And Ill say what has been said here many times, when you play super tight and/or short stacked, more of your hands are all ins. You rely more on showdown winnings so you are at the mercy of the poker gods and will have a higher variation in win rates over certain time frames.

People who play more LAG and are good at it, meaning they have a higher win rate and more money is won without showdown, will have win rates that are more consistent over 1000 hour periods. 1000 hours is NOT lol sample size for everyone.