How are you doing overall results-wise / sample-size wise?

If you're crushing, you might just be a lot better than a lot of the posters here / see the game in a different way than they do / etc. and there's simply nothing here for you to learn / apply to your game.

If you're sucking, I doubt anything will change if you don't put in strat work.

Ggoodluck!G

Well, I did not come to the forum a few months back to learn but to increase efficiency in execution.

Now, unlike test taking for example, I wonder if less is better...less study. You know with tests a handful of students would out perform their professors if the exam was written and administered by a third party.

I’m going to roll with Garrick’s advice for a season...just pick a topic, dwell on it, work it in, move on...not spending too much time/effort “shotgunning” as he said.

GthanksmanG

Math Q

Jc6c4d5c board. I have 44 no club and I am 99% sure I am beat.

130 in pot on turn after bet and a call of 35 from the 2 other players. I have 80 left.

23% to improve on river. How do I math assuming I call turn and 1 person will call my 45 on river when board pairs?

35 call to win 175? 35/175=20?

oops wrong place

This is an important subject IMO.

I've lost a lot of money strat leveling myself. I've thought that I'd be better off not learning too much strat. But over time, I've won way more using strat to make improvements.

I'm more of an intuitive guy. Maybe you are too. I think what happens is it takes a while for me to synthasize new strat into my thinking. At first you might find yourself trying to force it where it doesn't belong.

Overlappingly, you also have to shape it to your games and even a particular game. A lot of high level strat doesn't apply directly to LLSN. See Jon Littles absurd contention that you should always use a 3x open at any stakes in any game.

Man, I remember when all these mediocre online players were forced to do live and were doing dumb stuff like raising their button whenever limped to no matter how many times it blew up in their faces. That was awesome.

No need to balance your bet/3bet range on the river. Don't call the OMCs all in on the river because you have a spade blocker.

But, you can learn a lot to sharpen up your game as you figure out how to integrate it. An obvious example is hand selection. Who among us doesn't get too loose pre? Assuming you 3b light at least sometimes, hand selection is proably MORE important in LSNL because of the times you are called. When making hero calls/folds the blocker/range stuff, along with improved hand reading, can be pretty important. Just don't overdo it and allow it to override the things you know about Vs and the language of your game.

Make your hand reading assumptions based on what your Vs actually do, not what a well balanced V would do.

When strat does blow you up, adjust rather than discard. Yes, Vs in our games will sometimes just call with QQ, and even KK or AA when there is a weak open and 2 callers in front of them. So sometimes you will get raped when you squeeze them. So squeezing is slightly less valuable, but that doesn't make it worthless.

You learn by making mistakes. Apart from stuff like folding more UTG, you'll probably screw up a few times as you learn to do new stuff, just as in any other endevor.

Obviously, I don't know the specifics of your situation, I'm just using these examples to illustrate the point.

Ultimately, you are using the things you might learn from a Doug Polk to pick up an extra pot here and there. Maybe it doesn't happen for a few sessions. Maybe it happens 3x in one. Just don't become enamored of your shiny new toys and start acting like every hand is from a heads up match against a world class player.

Here's how I do it.
If you call, you'll lose $35 77% of the time, -35*0.77=-$26.95
With your assumptions, you'll win $175 23% of the time, =+$40.25
So on average, a call is worth an EV of $13.30.

A quicker, at the table way is to say "I'm being asked to pay x% of the pot, therefore I need >X% equity. So Id just say like you did 35/175=20, so I need at least 20% equity. I have 23%. I call.

This is using percentages, which I prefer to use as I never have to translate equity into odds. You can also use ratios (odds). I never use this style, so its possible I'll screw it up a bit.

You will hit 23% of the time and miss 77%, So your odds of winning are 77/23=3.35:1. You want a return bigger than that in order to call.

In this case you are being asked to pay $35 to win $175, so you are getting $5 back for every $1 you put in. In other words, including your implied odds, the pot is offering you 5:1 (175/35). 5>3.35, so call.

2/4 table 400 effective.
Hero: EP opens KQcc to 20, 5 callers
Flop [100$]: 2c5c10d
Hero bets 60
Loose passive fish makes it 210. Folds back to me.
Do I just go all-in here knowing villian will pretty much never fold, hoping to get it in vs worse flush draws at times. Can I call here and play turns / rivers?
Would it possibly have been better to c/c or c/r the flop?

Thanks. All my numbers are correct? I didnt add my 35 turn call or 45 left over on river into that 175 but I added one of the V's potential 45 if I hit on river.

Its not 220/35 or 255/35?

I typically go the odds route (I come from Limit) but whatever floats your boat.

So we're being asked to call $35 to win $130 (what is currently in the pot) + $45 (what we expect to get paid off on the river and assuming we always win when we boat/quad up) = $175. So $35 to win $175, so pot odds are $175:$35, so 5:1.

The chances of hitting our 10outer from the turn to the river are approximately 4:1. You can either memorize a pot odds table (if you're from Limit like me you've likely done this already), or you can use the Rule of 2 and 4 (I'll let you look up this useful rule) to estimate about 20% equity which is equivalent to 4:1.

Anyhoo, our pot odds are greater than the odds of us hitting, so easy call closing the action.

Gbutchancesofmedoingmathrightarefiddy/fiddyG

Well this is an important subject imo: execution.

There’s some value in knowing what’s trending. There’s way more value in learning things you must know. The most value is in execution.

Incantations?

“In short, encourage innovation, begin with execution, and name the strategy later.”

Harvard Business Review article by Kanter, 11/6/17: Smart Leaders Focus on Execution First and Strategy Second
hbr.org

Ok, do this **** for poker people.

Today...move your asses. Jkjk thought that would be funny.

No really though.

Ok, does this book help anyone in poker? ~

“The American Card Player” by William Dick, 1866
Smithsonian Libraries, library.si.edu

Probably not. But, I do have an idea...I’m going to create a thread in the beginners forum to build on that idea.

Bye, I think, yea bye. I mean...I’ll be in the beginners forum.

Yeah, if you're doing percentage, it should be what percentage your call represents of the "final" pot (including the call) but not including what you'd put in later only if you hit.

Sorry, I missed that part in your OP.

So for direct odds, you'd be paying $35 of a $165 pot at the end of turn action. That means that your call represents 35/165 of the pot, or 21.2%. So you'd want at least 21.2% equity to make the call.

As it turns out, you have that even without Implied Odds, but let's imagine that your equity were only 18% (instead of the 23% it really is, assuming for simplicity's sake that neither ever has a bigger set, so if you hit you are good).

Then you go to your assumption that one of them will call 45 when you hit. You don't need to add your $45 in to this pot, as you're only putting it in when you know that you will be getting it back. So the "final pot" is $165+45, or $210. 34/210 is 16.7%, so even if you'd actually only had 18% equity, this would still be a call.

How do you guys determine turn sizing with a FD on board vs thinking (good regs)?

Do I bet an amount that would be between a low FD and a FD with a potential over or should I bet an amount that gives both a bad price? What about a pair and a FD? Again, this is against "good" players and not fish. V's can put me on KQ, QJs AQ or better when I bet the turn. They will know I dont have a T when I fire twice but I could still have a NFD/combo draw. I think my flop bet was too small but lets not focus on that.

H $300 with AQo no diamond
V1 $600
V2 $225

H utg+2 raises 15
V1 CO calls
V2 BB calls

QdTx5d (45)
check, H bets 30, call, call
turn 4x (130~)
H bets ?

50/180 is 28% where a FD+over and Jd8d is 27% to hit.
65/195 is 33% where pair+FD is 32% to hit.
KJd, J9d, AJd, ATd are only 4 combos so my guess is we shouldnt worry about those until the ranges are narrowed further on the river. This also gets even more complex because if the first V calls its giving the other V a better price. What should I bet here assuming I want to give a bad but tempting price for a call?

^^^^

I think it's more complicated than that. Of more importance is whether we feel committed versus not committed. The more committed we feel, the more cool we are with building a big pot and working towards commitment. The less committed we feel, the more cool we are with keeping the pot small (and perhaps not even betting at all). And on top of that we have to add on opponent tendencies (such as bet/folding against ABC opponents but perhaps checking to induce against bluffier ones).

This particular spot is a really tough one due to being up against two different stack sizes, one we likely feel committed against and one we likely don't, which complicates things even further.

The only thing I'll say is that no one folds a draw on the flop (not everyone agrees with this statement), so with that in mind, if I feel committed, a PSB (or even a PSB+) on drawy boards is the route I tend to go.

Git'sadifficultquestion,imoG

Bet an amount that can get called by worse. Since the board is dynamic I'd lean towards betting bigger.

I strongly disagree with GG on this - we've got a very strong hand and no reason to believe we don't have the best hand a majority of the time. Bet $90.

So I am still severly overthinking this?

I was practicing my on table maths and decided to give a bad price for the majority of draws and maybe get KQ to call. I am super TAG, meaning I am ultra tight preflop and am almost always firing, probably should have added this. V2 I am 95% sure would pitch KQ or worse on the turn vs me, V1 is slightly more erratic and I am not sure if hes drawing but I also wanted KQ, QJ to call.

turn is a brick
H bets 75, 75/205=37% to give most draws a bad price but not terrible. V1 calls, V2 is getting 75/280=27% on a call.
both V call

river brick
(355) H ez jam for 180?

V2 said he had KJd. V1 didnt say but theres a good chance if he had a flush draw he would have told V2.

Shoulda made a seperate thread for this. MB.

Hi all,

1/3

V is very good. Young european man waiting to play 5-10 at the B

He raises button to 10 SB calls I make it 40 with AcKc in BB

He calls SB FOLDS

(90) Flop Qs 5c 7h

I bet 30 he calls

Turn Jc

I only have 180 left with a pot
Of 150

Should I check or jam?

^ if deeper I think I would like a x/jam better.
But you only have $180, so yeah. I’d just rip it in here.

^ I’d also bet flop about 1/2 pot

Hi all,

2/5, hero playing $290. BB is relatively unknown reg, 30 y/o Latin American guy. Don't know what he thinks of me. It is pretty early in hero's session.

Folded to hero who opens 99 BTN $20, SB calls, BB 3! $95. Hero?

Thanks,
DT

This shallow unless villian is 3betting light fold>jam>call

If we have 1k effective I can support a call and if he is 3betting light jamming is definitly a play. Given he is bb and unknown we have nothing to suggest this is light.

How much weight do you put into the BTN v. BB dynamic? He could think I am opening light myself.

Hi all,

1/3 game at the Aria

I have a great image. Showing down monsters I cover all.

I have 44 UTG and limp (sometimes I will just fold against a tough table) the game is very soft and multiple people have 300 dollar stacks

Euro kid raises to 9 next to act and 6 other people call

We think about just calling here but we make it 65??? Thoughts?? The dead money out there is so attractive honestly.

One player calls ( he has been avoiding me quite a bit we have a fun dynamic going he’s been saying all night I know anytime ur in u have aces so I’m out)

Flop 9Q7 two spades

We hate it but but 75 he jams for 225 so we fold

Thoughts on the hand? Very weird I know

I think you lost control a bit in this hand. Just call the initial raise don’t get fancy. What you did just injects unnecessary variance into your game. You actually want a multi-way pot with these pairs so you can stack someone with top pair or trips.