Were you button and called yourself a good player in the op?

On that turn vs 2 other players? Yeah you have to get it in because BB could have KT with Tc or some nonsense you don't want to draw for free. HU vs smart player if I didn't x/shove flop (I'd likely mess up the 2nd level thinking commitment planning at game speed) I'd check/call as my hands is basically already protected as he wouldn't fold anything that has decent outs against us (like AcKo). X/c because your hand is very bluff catcher now.

You rarely if ever have QTcc or 67cc here HU, you defended a 3-bet of your EP open. Need to include other JTs imo to get enough semibluffs into the shove range.

I wasn’t in the hand was just shocked by omc shove but was thinking it might not be so bad in hindsight. The questions how often does button pay it off if he has like aces or ak. If he just mucks them u are missing out on a lot of value

Yeah the fact that it's an omc who's not gonna have bluffs with his 2x shove here means he's not getting paid. I'm a young white bro with a super aggro image so I get paid.

Should you have an open complete range on the button in Heads up or always raise first in?

Playing heads up on app with some friends who are decent and beat live small stakes. I saw they open complete on the button heads up. I thought on the button in cash games always raising in was the play because blind steal etc. They don't like the idea of having to defend against three bets with that whole team but I'm not seeing that as a big deal. Maybe open limp button as a massive exploit against a guy that will see every flop and spew in high SPR pots but otherwise I like having a less define raise and defend to three bet range so they can't read me as easily.

My usual for HU is to open raise the button with somewhere between 85-100% of hands depending on the opponent's reaction (closer to 100% for people who fold too much and never 3-bet). I think it's probably easier to balance having no open limp range and just 4-bet a correct amount of the time than it is to balance your open limps and not get them attacked incessantly, but I haven't played all that much HU since about 2009...

Thanks, this is my thoughts as well but I was just checking. If villain is really passive pre and spewy postflop then maybe, but I'm raising these guys' completes or check raising Broadway boards a lot against their complete range and they have to give up against my air really often. I think it's a big leak for them. They are also playing really really wide ranges overall (it's heads up, bro!) but are size inelastic pre around 4-5x bb which I think may be hemorrhaging money. I think they are defending like 80%+ to 4x opens and at least one loathes three betting out of position.

Yeah I know HU not as much a thing for the live stakes forum, but right now with live private games moving to apps I'm having a lot of "live players in online situations' moments where we have audio or even video conference channels open. It's fun, still get the social aspect but get way more hands in at smaller stakes.

More success with bluffs early in a session or late?

Comparison between bluffs early/late?

More success with bluffs with winning image. Less with losing image.

Early in a session, physical characteristics and any previous history.

Yea, I probably threw away more with the losing image than the early morning bombs.

I have to write that down, thanks.

2/3, nine handed

Suppose it's folded around to you and you have 22-66 in the SB.
Assume BB is loose pre, passive postflop in MW pots. Assume no history in BvB or HU pots.

Would you raise these small PPs versus this BB?

Assume you raise, BB calls

Flop: A73
or
Flop: K83

How often would you c-bet flop?

Always raise absenta good reason not to. Always cBet on those types of flops where it's hard for V to have much.

It's different obv if BB is any good or you have history.

Offer to chop if 66- can't make a BBJ; otherwise coy "would you like to see a flop *nudge nudge wink wink*" and check it down (getting in required money if actually making BBJ hand), imo.

Gkeepyourcustomershappy/goodtablevibes,imoG

I'd cbet those boards almost always, ~30% PSB.

It is going to depend in detail on how fit-or-fold the villain is on the flop (or, if they are sticky on the flop, how often they fold on the turn).

I have been working with a polarized range in the SB that includes just completing (including having an limp/reraise range); however, that is best for playing against a tough villain.

Against a loose-passive sucker like this, I would size up my open (4x or more), and tighten up to a strong, linear opening range. This means giving up a substantial number of hands preflop. I might fold 22 or even 33, but I am definitely opening any bigger pairs.

As for postflop, we are going to have both range advantage and nut advantage on these boards, with lots of flush draws. I would be betting something like 1/2 to 2/3 pot against a fit-or-fold villain with a substantial fraction of our range. The c-bet only needs to work 33% (if half-pot) to 40% (if 2/3 pot) to be profitable, and a fit-or-fold villain is going to be folding 60 to 70% of the time. My smallest pairs are definitely going to be in my betting range for equity protection.

The stickier the villain is, the smaller and more value-weighted my c-betting range is going to be. If I know they give up on the turn a lot, I will bet a lot there; with a small pair, I would be more likely to bet them if one of my cards was suited to the front-door flush draw.

Does your checking range include some monsters for ballance? (I almost always c-bet here, but wonder if there is any significant money to be made in a 1-2 game by sometimes slowplaying.)

Balance matters a lot less against a loose-passive sucker. We are going full-bore exploitative here. No point in slowplaying monsters, because they aren't going to bet for thin value or even bluff. The way we make money against these players is (1) pushing them off of their equity (e.g. overcards to the small pairs OP is thinking about), and (2) betting for every shred of value we can against them. If they give up easily without a pair, then we emphasize (1). If they are sticky and call down with a hope and a prayer, then we put our effort into (2).

Bottom line: we are not trying to make them indifferent between folding and calling; we are trying to exploit their specific tendency of either folding too much or calling too much.

2/5 home game.

Utg straddles, there’s two calls and I’m cut off with QQ and go 60. Folds to bb who is aggro LAG, bluffs more than most but knows what he’s doing and he’ll see me as one of the tighter players at the table. He goes 165 and I call.

We’re only 600 eff as he just re-loaded

Flop is J 10 7 he bets 125 and I call.
Turn is offsuit 8 he checks. Do we bet or check back?

I check back

River is a blank and he shoves 330

Do we call and what do we do on turn?

I think i am stacking off pre with QQ to be honest at this stack depth in straddled pot. And save the flatcalls for KK and AA.

As played i am more inclined to shove the flop, instead of letting him see more cards with AK for example. Like i guess were not looking to fold an overpair to this guy?

Sent fra min SM-G981B via Tapatalk

Pre 3b sizing on the small side considering V is OOP.

Getting 2.75-1, so if we give him JJ/KK/AA, 15 combos. Would he 3b JTs? Let’s give him two of those for a total of 17 winners. We have few 99 combos by the turn, so his JT should continue, as well as JJ.

16 combos of AK, even with ½ of those we are getting correct odds to call. Throw in some AQ/AJs and calling seems like a slam vs. this opponent.

That said, wary of the pre sizing, as well as the river shove which offers attractive odds to call, i.e. little fold equity.

Unless you have a live tell, I’d follow the math and reluctantly call.

Pre – vs. this V in a straddled pot, I’d lean toward GII.

Yeah, I also now think pre is a shove against somebody who is pretty aggro.

Also think that once I flat pre, this is an above average flop and I should get it in. . From a range POV it’s actually really good for me vs him

4-bet shove the flop. As played preflop, the villain's flop bet size means all the chips are going into the middle, and so we should help them along. Shove on the flop. As played on flop, shove the turn. As played on flop and turn, sigh-call the river, confident that the money is now going in worse than if we had shoved earlier (but not much worse; see my comment about the villain's flop bet.)

1/2 6 max on poker bros. interested in POVs on a few decision points

200 eff. I've played two hands so have 'newbie' tag.

I open QQ to 6 from HJ, button (Wannabe Pro) calls bb calls.

Flop (19) is AQ8r, I bet 6, Button raises to 22, BB folds I call. (call or raise?)

Turn (63) is offsuit 2, I check, he bets 30, I call. (call or raise?)

Turn (120) is a J, I check he bets 55 (thoughts on decision?)

I haven't played on pokerbros on pokerbros in 2-3 months, but I'm assuming this isn't much different from .50/1 when I played last.

I would 3 bet flop to $70 to set up a turn shove. I don't want to call being OOP and unblocking top pair. The biggest problem I have with being OOP is that it's very difficult to play for stacks if he checks back the turn. Then again, as I think about it, I doubt he's checking the turn very often.

I would just shove the turn; I don't want to risk the river going x-x. I don't see a lot of triple barrel bluffing so I don't really care about folding out bluffs, and there are value hands that will call a turn shove but will check the river.

I shove the river. We beat 3 combos of 88, 4 combos of AQ, 2-3 combos of A8s. We lose to 8 combos of KTs/T9s.

Fold pf. As played probably click back flop, but calling has merit too. His raise seems weird/bad.
He's wannbe pro so should have a reasonable range pf. Value he only has A8s, Q8s, 88 maaaybe AQs. Not really sure what bluffs he can have. KT with a bd. Thing is some of these hands should 3bet pf.

If I call flop I prefer check call turn and check jam river.