This is in 1/2 nl and 2/5 nl.

to combat this, I just move to another game type and buy back in at 100bb.
ie: if 2/5 nl then move to 1/2 nl and vice versa

I want to figure out WHY I keep losing everything (and then some) after I win 3x+ my buy-in?
Any suggestions?

Gamblers annonymous

would help if you posted some hands.

The way to play 200bb+ stacks is fundamentally different than 100bb- stacks.

There are situations where you prefer to 3-bet OOP with hands with a 100bb stack that are much worse plays with a bigger stack.

Drawing to the non-nuts is also a lot worse when stacks are bigger.

Winning 3x your BI is hard, at least for me. It's something I didn't even do in 2015 nor so far in 2017.

Have you tracked results at all / are a proven winning player? What I'm getting at is that it's possible you're playing horribly every step of the way, and just lucking into 3BI wins (which of course your poor play will eventually lose). Last session out, the biggest whale at our table booked a 4BI win, but he's a big loser overall lifetime.

GcluelessNLnoobG

As the stack gets bigger the big-pairs and big-aces and big-kings goes down in value while small-medium pairs and middle suited connector go up. Big stacks are a liability for hands that flops over-pairs or TPTK. Probably, as your stack gets bigger you keep betting your over-pair or TP the same way you did when you had 100bb in the beginning of the session. As your stack get way up bigger you should play some of the bigger pair for a limp and set-value and also consider TP a medium or even a small hand. Except of course for AA and sometime KK where you want the most money to go in pre. All the rest starting hands must flop big in order for you to dig into the 3x-stack.

Especially the KK is very difficult hand to play proficiently if the stacks are big. I rather have QQ, JJ, TT, AK or any pair. Is there a T9 there for me? - I take it.., wtf! At least I'm blocking AA/KK and if I flop a set or something good with T9 I'm gonna clean villain to the felt.

I'm even going so far as to be so crazy that if you force me to call a preflop raise in deep stacks with KK or T9s or 88, I give the KK to someone else and take the little ones. I don't want to have an over-pair or TP on the flop. I want to miss or hit hard.

1/3 nl live

Mp (hero =A5): $900
Co: $1200 (lag, knows how to play position)

Preflop:
Hero limps, co raises to $15, bb calls, hero calls

Flop ($46): 6810
Bb,hero checks, co bets $35, bb folds, hero raises to $100, co calls

I'm trying to rep straight

Turn: k
Hero bets $250, co calls

Still trying to rep straight.
When he called, I put him on a set

River: A
Hero checks, co bets $300, hero calls

I check because a bigger straight hit and would look suspicious if I bet again.

He either has the nuts or bluffing.
Given his aggressiveness, I called with top pair.

How's my thinking?

I would have never done that flop check raise if I had a smaller stack.
Fancy play syndrome?

On the hand you posted, some will hate it but I think pre is fine.

Flop check raise is good but I probably go 125. Flop is not good for PFR and you have lots of equity v an overpair less than AA.

Turn is your first mistake. How does the K ever help you here? I probably check/evaluate here.

River call is pretty bad. What bluffs does he ever have here?

Pre... Why are we open limping. Seems like a clear raise.


Flop: When we're this deep, we're trying to commit with the nuts... not just when we might get them. No need to inflate the pot yet, especially when we can get pushed out of it. I like leading this flop. C/c while not as good is still better than c/r IMO. It's sort of ridiculous to try to rep a straight here. With only 1 street of action we can only rep a range of hands. Here, we most likely rep our exact holdings along with other draws more than 2p+. Those are more likely to lead to deny equity and get value.

Turn: If we had a straight, would we really bet so large? I'd probably just check this and hope for a check back or a really small bet.

River: Given the action, I think V can beat TPWK here.

so basically why I lose when I have 3x+ my buy-in is that I play like a fancy play idiot.
and switching to a different game, buying back at 100bb and pocketing the profit is major +ev for me.

just out of curiosity, what do you put CO on for turn and especially river?

Depends on how LAGGY he is pre and how sticky he would be to the flop raise. I'd say something like all sets, some 97 and T8, KT, maybe AT, some AK that floated flop raise,

What his range is, is not important. We are not trying to solve why you lost this particular hand, you want to resolve your FPS with a big stack.

Moving tables and cashing out doesn't solve your problem, it is only a bandaid.

When I get 300bb deep, I open my range up. But like you, I catch myself making bad plays. But I have been practicing being self conscious and I catch myself after the forst street or sometimes even before I make that first bad chip dump.

When I catch myself, I take a breather, close my eyes and reset myself mentally. Then I take a step back and play like a nit for a while. Until I catch a hand or two and scoop a pot or two and see my confidence grow again.

Then once I see I am back on my A game, I slowly start to open my range again. You need to figure out what wotks for you.

What are your poker goals? What do you currently do to achieve them? What do you do weekly to imorove your poker game? Do you work on yiur mental game at all?

Moving tables to a smaller stacked table can be seen as an integral part of good ~shortstacking (or, perhaps more accurately, avoiding deepstack) system.

Git'sasystemIoftenemployG

The example you give is a tough situation. It isn't bad in the "never do that" type of bad but you shouldn't be making that sort of big bluff very often.

The board is very wet and villain is should figure you for a draw more then a made straight. If you have 97 in your range then both 75 and J9 are also, plus flush draws and some pair+draw/combo draw type hands. So your flop bet probably won't have as much FE as you might hope. You really have to think about what the LAG thinks of your range on this board also, would you lead made hands or call or check/raise?

Villain's range is also hard to figure on this board because a LAG can be playing a draw against you. So his range includes both value and air by river. The total air gives up on the flop or turn and his one pair probably check river rather then bet, but might bluff after you check.

Agreed but it isn't helping him grow his game and he seems like he genuinely wants to learn. It also will reduce his winrate in the long run.

But its why I play small ball with hands like TPTK or even 2p. Also against another deep stack, I'm not playing for stacks with a middle set on a dry board. I want the nuts before I start getting in 200+ bb.

For the hand you posted, also think about what hands can call your flop check raise and turn PSB, but not beat top pair no kicker on the river. V can't have the NFD because you have it. The only hands I can think of that make sense for this are J9dd, 75dd and possibly Kdxd. Does LAG raise J9s or 75s pre? Maybe, maybe not. If he has Kdxd, does he ever turn it into a bluff on this river? Probably not. On the river, your hand is completely a bluff catcher, and requires V to have called two big bets to show up with any bluffs.

Not terrible

River call was atrocious but i've done that before.

Turn bet is meh - you can check this turn back sometimes. it's just not a very good turn card. Would prefer to bet a J975432 and check back any QKAT86

Maybe checking back diamond? Depends on player

pre flop i don't mind the open limp in a 1/2 or 1/3 game depending on the table dynamic. flop c/r is fine too. I will do that some along with balancing by c/c and even an open lead sometimes. Flop bet is way too big imo. If he is floating you on the flop with AK or AQ then a half pot bet would accomplish the same goal. The river call is just terrible. No too many draws call a psb on the turn. Maybe 78dd or 79dd? Many will even let those go. Think river is an easy c/f