Quote:
Originally Posted by Paolo C
The thing I guess I don’t understand is this: What I’ve been trying to work on is my post flop play - cbetting, reading opponents, bluffing/semi-bluffing, calculating draws n outs, implied odds etc. But from what you’re saying this all becomes irrelevant if the SPR is < 3. I’m still not sure I understand why. Wouldn’t a read on an opponent that they have you dominated despite your top pair on the flop be better to fold than to GII on the flop or over the remaining streets? It could save you 250 of your remaining stack (assuming you started with 300 and you put in 50 preflop)? Don’t you lose out potentially by not post-flop strategy?
The issue is you're pretty pot committed. When the pot represents a large portion of your stack, you shouldn't be making tight folds.
That being said, you don't have to automatically stack off in low SPR situations, particularly when the flop isn't favorable and you went multiway.
Ex. if the flop is 9hThJh and there's significant action before me I'm snap folding black Aces on the button.
For the most part, this is why you should be raising more pre with strong 1-pair hands. Find the table's pain threshold where you only get 1-2 callers. If V outflops me after calling 1/3 of my stack preflop then good for them—I'm printing money on all the times they *don't* outflop me since none of their hands have that much equity against aces.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Paolo C
Also this is making me think about reassessing my buy-in amount. The option at these tables is to buy-in for 100-500. Is 300 a mistake? Should I be buying in for the max 500 so I get caught in these low SPR situations less often?
If you think you can outplay your Villain's, conventional wisdom is to buy in for the max. If you can't, you should probably not be playing at all.
If you're not comfortable stacking off with 1 pair in low-SPR pots, first step is to figure out why. Then either buy in for less (so it's trivial to stack off) or more, so your stack size is less awkward.
Buying in for the max isn't always the only good strategy though. Ex. there's one bizarre 1/3 game I go to with uncapped buy-ins. There are players there who live to stack each other super deep ($1-3k) and are quite competent at deep stack. I'm not yet very good at deep stack, so I just buy in for $300 and shove premiums. Many of them call for the chance to play against each other (and I often get outflopped), but in the long run this is a very profitable shove.