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Floating Floating

01-11-2018 , 12:14 PM
As a LAGtard who plays like a brain dead mouth breather until my opponents refuse to utter the word "fold" to me anymore I often find myself struggling in some situations where I float at the wrong time or get floated and put in awkward spots. Against balanced regs I find myself in tough spots in later streets where I either have to call down light or give up. That said, if we assume that regs (or fish) float against me more frequently than against other players what can we do to try and fix the leak in general other than simply tightening up?

Also, with my play style, when is it (if ever) appropriate to float otf or turn? Or are there just too many factors in play here for there to be a correct answer to this question?
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01-11-2018 , 03:24 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Izen
As a LAGtard who plays like a brain dead mouth breather until my opponents refuse to utter the word "fold" to me anymore I often find myself struggling in some situations where I float at the wrong time or get floated and put in awkward spots. Against balanced regs I find myself in tough spots in later streets where I either have to call down light or give up. That said, if we assume that regs (or fish) float against me more frequently than against other players what can we do to try and fix the leak in general other than simply tightening up?

Also, with my play style, when is it (if ever) appropriate to float otf or turn? Or are there just too many factors in play here for there to be a correct answer to this question?
Do you have 100% cbet frequency?
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01-11-2018 , 03:29 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Izen
Or are there just too many factors in play here for there to be a correct answer to this question?
This.

But to state some obvious stuff, floating works better if:
  • You're heads up
  • Your opponent is too loose
  • Your opponent has a high cbet percentage but will often give up or play straight forward on the turn and river
  • Stacks are deeper
  • Your hand has some equity (i.e. has a chance of being the best hand by the river)
  • You have position
  • There is no ace on the flop (Ax combos are the most raised hands)
  • You have a solid image
  • You have a blocker or two

As a LAG, if you think people are playing back at you by floating, you can:
  • Tighten up and play TAG
  • Let them do this and just give up in the small pots in the hope that your LAG image will help you get stacks in when you eventually hit top two or better
  • Empty the clip into them (fire multiple barrels) if stacks are deep and you think they're calling your flop cbet too light and they will eventually have to fold on later streets

But... if you're asking these questions you should probably just not float or try to counter floating and you should probably just tighten up and play TAG.

Typically what are the effective stack sizes in OP's local game?

Last edited by Nogyong; 01-11-2018 at 03:41 PM.
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01-11-2018 , 03:39 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nogyong
This.

But to state some obvious stuff, floating works better if:
  • You're heads up
  • Your opponent is too loose
  • Your opponent has a high cbet percentage but will often give up or play straight forward on the turn
  • Stacks are deeper and river
  • Your hand has some equity (i.e. has a chance of being the best hand by the river)
  • You have position
  • There is no ace on the flop (Ax combos are the most raised hands)
  • You have a solid image
  • You have a blocker or two

As a LAG, if you think people are playing back at you by floating, you can:
  • Tighten up and play TAG
  • Let them do this and just give up in the small pots in the hope that your LAG image will help you get stacks in when you eventually hit top two or better
  • Empty the clip into them (fire multiple barrels) if stacks are deep and you think they're calling your flop cbet too light and they will eventually have to fold on later streetr

But... if you're asking these questions you should probably just not float or try to counter floating and you should probably just tighten up and play TAG.

Typically what are the effective stack sizes in OP's local game?
Floating%
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01-11-2018 , 04:43 PM
100 bb 1/2 and 1/3 and stacks in these rooms are hardly ever super deep. How would we go about working option 3 into our game better?
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01-11-2018 , 04:45 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nogyong
This.

But to state some obvious stuff, floating works better if:
  • You're heads up
  • Your opponent is too loose
  • Your opponent has a high cbet percentage but will often give up or play straight forward on the turn and river
  • Stacks are deeper
  • Your hand has some equity (i.e. has a chance of being the best hand by the river)
  • You have position
  • There is no ace on the flop (Ax combos are the most raised hands)
  • You have a solid image
  • You have a blocker or two

As a LAG, if you think people are playing back at you by floating, you can:
  • Tighten up and play TAG
  • Let them do this and just give up in the small pots in the hope that your LAG image will help you get stacks in when you eventually hit top two or better
  • Empty the clip into them (fire multiple barrels) if stacks are deep and you think they're calling your flop cbet too light and they will eventually have to fold on later streets

But... if you're asking these questions you should probably just not float or try to counter floating and you should probably just tighten up and play TAG.

Typically what are the effective stack sizes in OP's local game?
This is a really good post. I simplify it a bit (I like rules). I never float out of position, and never float in multiway pots.
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01-12-2018 , 05:45 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Izen
100 bb 1/2 and 1/3 and stacks in these rooms are hardly ever super deep. How would we go about working option 3 into our game better?
Sir, if its only 100bb deep with standard 6bb raises, tight is right. Maybe it depends how you define "lagtard" but in 2018 I'm not sure it is possible to consistently find tables where you can be profitable playing a "lagtard" style at 100bb stacks.

Anyone?

With a spewy image and only 100bb, you typically wont have enough ammo to blow your opponents off top pair weak kicker.

If you're determined to play loose at 100bb effective stacks and can find weak opponents, maybe its possible to profitably play a loose passive style where you end up giving up a lot of pots but overbet once you get 2-pair or better and any time you get to the river and think you have the best hand. They'll get curious and call you down eventually. You can also give the appearance of being spewy without losing EV by playing monster draws aggressively. That may also help you value bet them to death when you have it.

Or even better... rather than pre-determining how you intend to play every time you go to the table, how about playing TAG for an hour first and observe your opponents closely while you decide what is going to be the most profitable strategy for the particular table you're at (which, with only 100bb in effective stacks, is likely to be... TAG).

Many years ago, I wanted to be a professional computer gamer. Unfortunately, I found out that it was almost impossible to make a decent living as a pro gamer and also that I was not very good at playing computer games.

I'm saying that maybe you should focus foremost on trying to be profitable rather than focusing on trying to play a style of poker you enjoy.

Last edited by Nogyong; 01-12-2018 at 05:55 AM.
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01-12-2018 , 09:21 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nogyong
This.

But to state some obvious stuff, floating works better if:
  • You're heads up
  • Your opponent is too loose
  • Your opponent has a high cbet percentage but will often give up or play straight forward on the turn and river
  • Stacks are deeper
  • Your hand has some equity (i.e. has a chance of being the best hand by the river)
  • You have position
  • There is no ace on the flop (Ax combos are the most raised hands)
  • You have a solid image
  • You have a blocker or two

As a LAG, if you think people are playing back at you by floating, you can:
  • Tighten up and play TAG
  • Let them do this and just give up in the small pots in the hope that your LAG image will help you get stacks in when you eventually hit top two or better
  • Empty the clip into them (fire multiple barrels) if stacks are deep and you think they're calling your flop cbet too light and they will eventually have to fold on later streets

But... if you're asking these questions you should probably just not float or try to counter floating and you should probably just tighten up and play TAG.

Typically what are the effective stack sizes in OP's local game?
What should we really be looking for when we decide to triple barrel and make sure we don't get called down too light? Also should we be tightening up our range significantly in ep and mp to try and play more pots in position and maybe get a lot more of our hands to showdown?
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01-12-2018 , 10:00 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Izen
What should we really be looking for when we decide to triple barrel and make sure we don't get called down too light? Also should we be tightening up our range significantly in ep and mp to try and play more pots in position and maybe get a lot more of our hands to showdown?


If you’re looking to float a lot you definitely want to be doing it IP so yeah tighter ranges in early positions. Most villains will tend to play rather honestly so you have much more information when floating and bluffing later streets if you’re in position.


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01-12-2018 , 03:14 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Izen
What should we really be looking for when we decide to triple barrel and make sure we don't get called down too light?
The best hand relative to our opponents'range. If they are going to call you down light then you should value bet light even if this results in variance (you'll value own yourself from time to time). The main benefit of having a spewy image is they are going to pay you off lighter than they would if you had a nitty image. Therefore if for example you raised ATs from the cutoff or button against 1 or 2 limpers, and the highest card on the flop was a T, you might want to bet 3 streets for value, including potting the river even if a K or a backdoor flush comes.

If you have a spewy image, its generally not a good idea to be triple barrel bluffing into a player with no equity. When they check/call the turn, they usually intend to check/call the river. But if you are going to try this, its better to do it against an opponent who likes folding and on a board which changes on the river. For exampe if a flush card arrives (and we have a blocker) or if an A or a K hits the board.

If on the other hand you have an extremely tight image and players are aware of this, you have more reason to empty the clip with a hand like AK against an overly loose opponent capable of folding. If they haven't seen you play a hand in the last 2 hours, its scary as phaark when yoy suddenly come to life and barrel 3 streets.

But if one of the main weakness at your table is villains calling down too light (and it often will be), it doesn't make sense to create a strategy around barreling with air. When you bet the river, you will want to have value more often than you have air.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Izen
Also should we be tightening up our range significantly in ep and mp to try and play more pots in position and maybe get a lot more of our hands to showdown?
Yes, we should be tightening up our range significantly in ep and mp.

There really is not much excuse for ever opening e.g. K9s from ep or mp when stacks are 100bb. If you do this, whether you realise it yet or not, you're probably just bleeding money.

If on the other hand you are in the cutoff or buttion and 1 or 2 loose/weak players limp to you then K9s could suddenly become a playable hand.

You'll want to think about stack sizes:

1 limper to hero ($200 effective stacks)

Hero raises to 14, 1 call
Flop: Hero bets 20 into 27, V calls
Turn: Hero (with equity) bets 40 into 67 threatening a bet of 126 into 147 on the river.

I'm not sure what you mean by trying to get more hands to showdown. Getting to get to showdown is something you do with a hand which has showdown value but if we bet we're only getting called by better. With 100bb effective stacks getting to showdown is not something we're trying to do with TPTK. If you have a spewy image and top pair or better, presumably you want to bet the same amount as you do with your bluffs or perhaps even more. They will get curious and call you eventually. Generally speaking, just bet the same amount and leave the decision up to them. That's just general advice. Obviously there are going to be some board textures and situations where it makes sense to vary our betting size.

Last edited by Nogyong; 01-12-2018 at 03:23 PM.
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