I've had a few hands over the past few weeks in which I flopped a set, and an over turned. I don't love these spots. A lot of the times when I c bet bone dry boards with complete air, I'll then bet the turn for between 1/2 - 2/3 pot when an over turns, because I know it'll be more likely to get a fold. I'm wondering how we do this when we have the goods; I know it's 2/5 so balance is largely irrelevant, and we can get away with using different sizings when we're bluffing and when we're value betting. Anyways, here we go:

Hand one 2/5, 9 handed, $600 effective. Hero has a very aggressive image. Hero is playing TAG, but may be seen as more loose than I actually am, just because of the aggression factor. Villain is the typical LLSNL loose passive. The other villain is a complete unkown, but not very relevant.

OTTH

Hero opens J J $25 UTG, and villain calls +1, and the uknown calls OTB.

Flop ($82): J T 4. I'm usually just checking the flop here HU because I have the board so locked down. Hero bets $30, villain calls, unkown folds.

Turn ($142): Q. Hero? Sizing?


Hand Two 2/5, 9 handed, $1.1k effective. Villain is semi-professional, but admittedly likes to mess around a little too much, and isn't the main source of income in his household. He is a sporadic bluffer, but makes pretty good folds/calls. Hero has a solid TAG, maybe slightly looser than the traditional TAG image.

OTTH

Hero raises 9 9 $25 HJ over loose passive limp UTG, and only villain calls OTB.

Flop ($62): K 9 4. Hero bets $25, villain calls.

Turn ($112): A. Hero? Do we ever check here vs a villain like this?


Hand Three 2/5, 9 handed, $1.3k effective. Hero has a TAG, maybe even nitty image to villain. Villain appears to be a loose passive, that is slightly less worse than the traditional LLSNL villain, but very very far from a winner. If he 3 bets pre he has QQ+, and if he shows aggression post flop, the very minimum he has is two pair.

OTTH

Villain straddles $10 OTB, two loose passives limp, hero raises CO T T $70, and only villain calls.

Flop ($162): Q T 7. Hero bets $80 and villain calls.

Turn ($322): A. Hero? Sizing?

For sets with less than 200bb effective, my only concern is getting stacks in.

Hand 1: Checking this flop HU is awful. Betting $30 into $80 3-ways is beyond awful, $50-75. You must hate $$$. As played, $125 OTT IMO, buy my guess is you went for a x/r and it x thru.

Hand 2: You're not making much here unless V decided to flat pre with a big-K or big-A. Bet so that his FD hands don't get to see the river for free. $75-90 is fine. Obviously we're 3b if he raises us OTT.

Hand 3: Loose passive villain who didn't raise pre, I'm potting it OTT. Let him show me he can fold 1P+SD... I don't think he can.

Hand 1: This is not a dry board. Any two high cards have some sort of pair or draw. There are lots of hands that will call one bet and the ones that won't are not likely put money in at any point.

Turn is a terrible card because AK is now a straight. It is suddenly hard to get money from worse hands and better isn't going to go away. You still need to get some value but you can't go too big. I would go with $75 here.

Hand 2: If your going to down bet the flop you need to hammer the turn or your giving up too much money. The board is now fairly dangerous so $90/$100.

Hand 3: $200 looks good. Once the ace hits either villain has something reasonably good or he gives up. It's an ugly problem if villain raises but you can't let that keep you from betting here.

H1: Agree with others, you didn't bet enough on this flop. $50/135/390 or so gets all the money in on clean runouts against one villain. No reason to do anything else really.

H2: This is the only one of the three I'd consider x/r, for two main reasons -- first, V sounds a bit splashy, so they're less likely than average loose-passives to check back. The other is this is the only one of these three hands you can't just bet/bet/bet and get all-in, but check/raise does get you to a pot size you can ship rivers with if you want to. Stacks are such that you may set yourself up for a guessing game that way, so it's fine to just bet $75 here and check/call flush rivers that don't also pair the board, since V might make a bigger bluff on the end if they miss their flushdraw but see the other come in. But check/raise assuming they give you an amount you can make it about $350 over seems fine.

H3: $225, $550 or so on clean rivers.

Bet bet bet
Just size it like u would with broadways that pick up equity. Imo balance is way UNDER-rated in lower stakes games. If u rep the straight draw, u get paid off lite.

low stakes live? why do you think that

So game dependent.

I play in a room where balance can be a significant factor and in games that when you have it, just pile in the money every chance you get.

I default to piling in the money every chance I get.

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Anyone with modest hands reading skills will know what your ABC lines look like. Just mix a little bit with the ABC line and they make bigger mistakes.

H1:
Flop – I’m not sure the “down” bet should be implemented in multi-way pots. KQ/98s are OE, so I’d value larger.
Turn – Size up after small flop bet. Gave AK/98s a cheap turn, but I’d still go for value.

H2:
Flop – larger with a money card and FD; $40.
Turn – NFD part of his range now pairs, bet for value.

H3:
Turn – ½ PSB. KJ got there, still have to value 77/2-pr/draw part of his range.