I've tried to generate a push fold table that's easy to remember in my head. This is what I've got so far:

Take the highest card:

A = 10
K = 8
Q = 7
J = 6
T = 5
9-2 = Face value / 2

Add the following:

4 if the next highest card is one lower than the highest card (and at least 4).
3 if the next highest card is two lower than the highest card (and at least 3).
2 if the next highest card is three lower than the highest card.
1 if the next highest card is four lower than the highest card.

Add one if suited.

Pairs are just twice the value number + 4, i.e. TT = 14.

This is pretty quick to calculate in my head.

I push in the small blind (assuming no antes) in these situations based on stack size:

2BB: 5
3BB: 6
5BB: 7
10BB: 8

I push on the button on the above, but add 3:

2BB: 8
3BB: 9
5BB: 10
10BB: 11

Cut off is one higher again:

2BB: 9
3BB: 10
5BB: 11
10BB: 12

And any other position:

2BB: 10
3BB: 11
5BB: 12
10BB: 13

I remember (8,9,10,11) for the button. Before each hand is dealt, I look at my stack size, and pick either 8,9,10,11 depending on that. I then take away 3 if I'm small blind, or add 1 if I'm cut off or 2 otherwise. That gives me a number. I can then look at my hand and quickly calculate it's number to decide whether to push or fold.

When it comes to calling pushes, I will call at 2BB based on the same conditions that an opponent would push on (assuming they're me), with 3BB I'll call if my hand is one better score than what my opponent would push on, and with 5BB or greater I'll call if my hand is two better than what my opponent would push on (always assuming they're using the same table). So if my opponent pushes from early position and I've got 10BB, they'd push on 13 so I'll only call on 15, which is JJ or AKs. The effective stack size here is based on how committed I could be to the pot, if someone pushes with a small stack but I've got a large stack AND I've got people to act after me I'm generally more cautious and push up the effective stack size depending on the stack of those after me. I also generally 1 for each flat caller, and with a few callers and late position with marginal pushing hands I'll sometimes call instead.

All these tables assume a final table situation with a 50/30/20 payout. Take away 1 if you're heads up. Be more cautious as approaching the bubble (perhaps add 1), particularly when calling. If your opponent understands the bubble, don't be more cautious pushing, but if they don't (and are likely to call) don't push as much near the bubble.

Anyway, I know this is just a guideline, and I've made these numbers by plugin some scenarios into the Nash generator, but I've been noticing some situations where my numbers are a bit off. Is there an easy to remember and calculate during a live game push/fold/call table/formula (that works beyond heads up), because I feel mine is far from perfect and there's probably one out there that's either easier to remember, more accurate or both.

I understand adjusting to your opponents is important, but I feel it's really important to have a baseline. I've made one up myself which is easy to do during a live tournament but I have a feeling I'm re-inventing the wheel and someone has probably done a better job at it than me.

you may be interested in the SAGE system

http://pokerartikelen.blogspot.com/2...-heads-up.html

As far as I understand it only works heads up. I'm looking for something that works also with 3 to 8 players.

you are just making it more complicated

I thought so. It seems as though you've inadvertently omitted a simpler system from your answer. Could you include it?

assigning number values to your cards and then doing addition to find out the strength of your hand preflop is ridiculous. you should already intuitively know that AQ is better than KJ. decide a stack depth / position /situation to shove each hand and go from there.

They came up with a point system to rank hands and then solved for the HU shove/fold equilibrium under the constraint that the SB's strategies are of the form "shove with hands with at least X points" and BB's strategies are "call with hands with at least Y points". Thus they obtain an easy-to-remember approximation of the shove/fold game solutions.

You could use the same point system and strategy parameterization and then solve 3+ player shove/fold situations to get an easy-to-remember system that's less arbitrary than what you describe in the OP.

There isn't any system out there that I know of for Push/Fold for multiple players except this nash website:

http://www.holdemresources.net/h/web...s/nashicm.html

The web link above is super useful. My thanks go to the person who made it.

To help improve your system thing. I think you should add more value to suited cards, because they are more powerful than what meets the eye. Also know that the more people you have to act after you the more important it is to have the cards be closer together. For instance with 7BB in effective stacks, on the button it is better to shove with 76s than it is to shove with K6o. Then again, maybe a system isn't the best way to go at it.

I actually prefer to memorize the Nash equations instead of making a system. I think it is a good idea for you to build flash cards and memorize the power of the cards for each position at the table. For example on a note card write "J6s" on one side. On the other side write "push:19 call:7", rounding the push of 18.6 to 19 is easier to remember and the round off error isn't that much of a problem. This would be for heads up. Once you have those memorized you can do some more from the button, cutoff and so forth. This will take quite a bit of work , but if you want to know them this will help.

I use mnemonic devices to help me memorize all the numbers and such, you should too. I've used them effectively to memorize the push section of heads up Nash. If you don't know what mnemonic devices are look them up on Google. Trust me it is worth it. I have a mnemonic object for every number 1-100. It actually will help with memorizing phone numbers and addresses too, but that is a little off topic so back to the main focus.

People on forums will always tell you to "play the player." This is good advice, but you need a standard to back up on. If I am at a certain push or fold stage in a tourney then I will follow Nash as standard. If the table is calling a bit tighter you can loosen up your range. For instance, say you are short stacked at a 10 player table with 7BB and you are UTG. You can shove with QTs according to Nash. But with Q9s you must fold. However by playing the table you can adjust a bit and say "ehhhh normally I wouldn't shove with Q9s from UTG, but the table is quite tight. I can make this play."

Playing the player is correct, but if you don't have a standard then how can you adjust , because without a standard you can't "play tight" or "play loose" you have to have a range first and then adjust it accordingly. A lot of people get pissy at nash. Don't listen to them. Use nash while adjusting to people and the results will be amazing.

On another note don't fall in love with nash play. For instance if someone limps from middle position don't think that you have to play nash as if you were from early position. Just take into consideration of his general range. If you have the suspicion that he is limping with premium holding then clearly by all means don't push. But if he has been limping frequently then you should be more prone to coming over the top. I was once at a table with a holding of KTo and shoved all in with about 17 BB, because there were quite a bit of frequent limpers. Shoved all in and everyone folded. It was a bluff, but it had backup value. I knew it had value, because I know Nash sort of well.

It looks to me like you play SNGs. As of late I have too. I don't have an incredible edge over the field near the beginning as I do toward the end. The end game in SNGs is crucial for success and Nash will significantly help with that. When it comes down to 2 players at SNGs I win 4 to 1 on average. My sample size is kind of small, but I can definitely see that my opponents are giving away the lead by calling my pushes too tightly. I might shove with a hand like 93s at 8BB just because my opponent is a nit. In order to keep my opponent from adjusting to me I might shove every 3 out of 4 hands. I won't really even take a good look at my cards! Except if I have a hand like TT or something. Then I am looking at my cards and there is no way in hell I'm folding that.

Sorry about my ridiculously long post, but I got in a groove with typing and I hope it all makes sense, because I just rambled it down. If you have any questions or objections let me know.

Thanks for the detailed reply TheGodson. I'll add a few comments below:

I've been using this to site by pluging in various values to determine the numbers above, however on re-examination I've found my numbers might be too high (you can probably push any Ace on the button at 10BB). Reducing them all by one seems fairly safe.

It's just a very manual process and I thought someone had already done it better than me.

I've noticed that, particularly at low stacks were you may get multiple callers, lower suited connectors may be better. The other two will often have one dominating the other (i.e. AK v AQ), which means with low suited connectors you've got two cards to hit whilst they've only got three. Add in straights + flushes, putting that into a calculator gives a 37% chance of tripling up. If none of the other players have a card of your suit you're actually a slight favourite (39% vs 38% for the dominating hand).

I think my system somewhat accounts for that, K6 gets 8 points and 76s gets 3.5+4 (for connectors) +1 (for suited) which gives 8.5.

However, I like you thought maybe the value for suited of 1 was too low, but thought 2 was too high. Is AJs really as good as AKo in a heads up or even 3 way situation? I was thinking of valuing suited around 2 points for more multiway pots (like earlier in the tournament), but later on I value suited at say, 1.5. Basically I add one and if its borderline I'd usually go with suited cards. For example, lets say I'm on the button, and using my previous adjustments I say it's 10 for 10BB and 9 for 5BB. Lets say I'm on 7BB. I'll probably push with K6s (usually 9 points, but lets say 9.5 because they're suited) but not push with K9o (9 points). I'll push with KTo though, which is 10 points.

This is the same idea I had. I'm also no expert player (and have no strong desire to invest the sort of time to become one) I just enjoy playing at some local pub tournaments and I'm happy to break even, anything else is a bonus.

I don't think the nash tables given from that site even consider early limpers. Towards the end of the tournament, I'll generally either push or fold, but if there's early limpers, I'll generally call with drawing hands (particularly in late position), but push if I've got a particularly strong heads-up hand.

I'm playing 20-40 player tournaments, but particularly in the tournaments with closer to 20 players I have little trouble making the final table, but sometimes I'm there with a chip stack similar to what I started with. Learning to build my chip stack earlier on is important for me, but there's more subtlies in deep stack play that I'm slowly getting the hand off. With some relatively simple analysis I hope to get an edge when perhaps its more important, when the chip stacks are larger (and have more expected value in dollar terms).

That's fine, it was interesting reading, and I think I've beaten you in length with the reply.

HOW DO YOU DEAL WITH ALL INS FROM THE EARLY PART OF SPIN AND GO WHEN MANY PLAYERS(SUCCCCESSFULLY ) PUSH ALL IN FROM THE OUTSET BASICALLY ALL THE WAY THROUGH