Since i am not able to solve 3 way spots i am kind of lost especially when being on the button.

so basically i am looking for a way to figure out how to construct my range vs 2 ranges.

Are we pre flop raiser? So its us vs blinds? Or player opens we cc on the btn and a blind completes?

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I thought cbet implied we raise preflop.

Yeah we are the Preflop Raise. That would be a Hand example.
On this flop we do have all the sets, all the 2 pair combos, all the straight draws, the best Top pair combos but still that is all not very specific on how to construct my range vs 2 players. I assume there should be flops we X range yes ?!

PokerStars - $0.25 NL FAST (6 max) - Holdem - 6 players
Hand converted by PokerTracker 4

Hero (BTN): 146.4 BB
SB: 205.92 BB (VPIP: 24.30, PFR: 19.01, 3Bet Preflop: 11.24, Hands: 292)
BB: 276.36 BB (VPIP: 21.66, PFR: 15.47, 3Bet Preflop: 9.25, Hands: 1,174)
UTG: 123.32 BB (VPIP: 27.42, PFR: 19.35, 3Bet Preflop: 8.33, Hands: 66)
MP: 100 BB (VPIP: 25.64, PFR: 19.66, 3Bet Preflop: 8.89, Hands: 123)
CO: 104.88 BB (VPIP: 22.94, PFR: 16.93, 3Bet Preflop: 8.01, Hands: 923)

SB posts SB 0.4 BB, BB posts BB 1 BB

Pre Flop: (pot: 1.4 BB) Hero has K T

fold, fold, fold, Hero raises to 3 BB, SB calls 2.6 BB, BB calls 2 BB

Flop: (9 BB, 3 players) J 7 Q
SB checks, BB checks,Hero

Construct your range into 4 parts
1) nuts
2) medium value
3) high equity draws
4) air

cbet with ranges 1 and 3 at a 90% freq, (save 10% for balance), check back with ranges 2 and 4.

that does not really help because we dont know yet what hands are valuebets and what hands are "medium" value and how to determine the best betsize.

If you're OOP, do a LOT of checking multiway (you wouldn't be making a huge mistake if you checked 100% of the time). When you're in position multiway, your c-bet frequency should generally be a fair bit lower than if it was heads up, but you can still bet all your hands with decent equity. (Don't bet total air multiway though. That's mostly just gonna be throwing money into the abyss).
With your "decent" hands/draws, there's a lot of benefit to be gained by getting the pot heads up by the turn (i.e. equity denial is important), and if you check back too often, you lose much of the ability to win pots without a showdown, since so much of the EV of the weaker parts of your range comes from fold equity.
One benefit of c-betting your draws (like that KT on QJx) is that you'll frequently be able to take a free card on the turn if either (or both) player(s) call on the flop.

P.S. Bet-sizes should often (but not always) be smaller (as a percentage of the pot) than usual when multiway, so that you've still got some stack depth to play with on later streets. You don't want the pot to get hugely inflated and be faced with a commitment decision too soon.

Yeah being OOP i am checking range on pretty much all flops.
But being on the button 3way i feel x range is not too good. I think KT is an easy bet but what would i be doing with QT? do i wanna bet a hand like K5cc (have a couple of backdoor draws). since i am checking back a lot in that spot i feel awkward when turning a Flush/straight draw and facing a turn probe.

K5cc is probably too loose multiway. On that exact flop I would probably still cbet stuf like T8,98, etc with back door flush draws on occasion though. Maybe not all of them depending on players and their propensity to defend/raise.

QT probably depends a little bit on how low you're raising Q's on the button but you probably can't go wrong with mainly checking to call down and betting sometimes.

The way I think about it is to consider what I do heads up, and then move some of the more marginal HU c-bets into checks when it's multiway.
So QT is gonna be a bet both HU and multiway, but Q9 could be a check heads up, so I'll move into the checking bucket 3-way.
Since K5s would be a marginal/occasional c-bet heads up for me, it becomes a routine check multiway.
Basically, with those mid-strength hands and draws that probably utilize mixed strats heads up (betting or checking) all become clear check backs multiway.
Another way of looking at it is pot-size. If it's heads up (with about 6bb in the middle) you're looking at a turn pot size of about 12bb if you c-bet and get called, and that might be fine with a hand like Q9, but if it's multiway (with 9bb in the middle to start with) the pot could be 25bb or so by the turn, which is not really the size of pot you want to play, so taking a street off (by checking behind) could work out better.

Exactly. The 3way betting frequency should be lower than the heads up frequency after raising preflop.

I also have a loose idea that in 3 way pots only value hands and real draws are profitable bets, though this doesn’t mean that I bet every time; since checking is also profitable, there’s a good possibility that mixed frequency bets with draws in 3 way pots are a part of your balanced breakfast.

i somehow share that idea

It’s because of the way opponent folding frequencies multiply by each other, creating a low product:

Two opponents: 50% fold frequency each: 25% effective fold equity.

Two opponents: 30% fold frequency: 9% effective fold equity.

Add another opponent and the effect is even more dramatic.

This is why I think that 3 handed value ranges might be able to support a complementary range of draws for betting, but also that on boards without real draws available, the highest equity backdoor draws should be bet at frequency as default up to the point of draw saturation (where the value hands can’t support any more draws in the betting range).

OOP just check range and be prepared to fold a lot with one pair type hands (especially when there are other people left to act behind), IP bet less frequently and bet smaller. Realize that in multiway pots one pair hands that do not have redraws to straights/flushes or nut blockers lose a lot of value and should be played very passively.

Most people have the mentality of betting their one pair hands for "protection" before the board gets scary. In fact the correct way to play is the opposite, you play passively and wait for the board to run out favorably for your hand.

Your betting range should mainly be strong hands, strong draws and a few nut blockers.

This is intuitively true, and it's simply because you need a stronger hand to beat multiple players. So a hand that may be strong enough to bet for value heads up is not strong enough to bet for value multiway. Since your value range is smaller, you can't bluff as much as you would heads up, so when you do bluff multiway it's mostly going to be with big draws that can make the nuts and win big pots. e.g. You can bet a marginal flush or gutshot draw heads up, knowing that making any flush/straight is likely to win you the pot. Multiway, your small suited connector is in danger of 'improving' to a very costly second-best hand, so you should be less inclined to c-bet it.

Its important to point out that range construction as a general strategy in real games (for example 25NL online), is completely different than range construction as in estimate of what GTO strategy should be.

My guess is that human players on average severely overcall raises from virtually any position which means you should have much higher cbet percentage than what GTO play should dictate. At the same time, people will overcall flops and underbluff. So a result of this is you can actually get away with making thin value-cbets fairly easily, so I completely disagree with the idea that we should be checking a lot of medium strength one-pair hands.

For example Q9s on a QJ7 board, IMO is a clear cbet (in average online micros) against a SB and BB call. You get value from jacks and sevens, don't really fear a check/raise, don't get a lot of value from turning your hand into a bluff-catcher since villains underbluff, and the protection aspect is very real as random Kx and Ax that have outs against you. I think you can even make the same arguments for AJ and KJ.

All that changes when the games get tougher, and even online micros can be tough at times.

I do agree with "villains underbluff". but they also overvalue hands. I.E. on QJ7 as long as Villain bets with J9 or K7 or 88 i dont really care if he "bluffs" or "value" bets the turn. If i would be betting Q9 here and get two calls i would be lost and pretty much any turn.

for HU spots i do use a lot of ranges i created by just checking population stats but 3 way it is kind of a big mess.

You're in position though, if you get two calls your opponents likely just check to you and you can just check back lots of boards if you want so your position is not really that tough. You can also possibly bet small on turn and check back river if you really want to value-exploit.

I suggest you study the value of checking back the turn and river, while reserving the right to bet when checked to on good turn and river cards. Then compare that ev to the ev of checking the flop vs an Ace and King heavy set of ranges for your opponents.

exactly. the in position player has the last word in many pots. figure out how to use this to your advantage. hint: unless you're drawing dead, checking is always profitable. the closer you are to the button, the more you get to profit by checking. For example, I once chopped a pot with the nut low. While this outcome was unlikely, it still added to my winrate; it was an undeniable source of profit for me.

To put it another way, if you never win free showdowns, you either bet way too much or you're in a very wild game vs players that try to win every hand.

Some very tight preflop players can get away with the "bet too much" qualifier above, as the ev they lose from missed free showdowns is gained as protection value earlier in the hand. Some tough opponents out there use this strategy as default and make exploitive strikes from that advantageous position. Tight tags are not to be trifled with.

Loose players are those that benefit the most from the free showdowns, naturally, as the more equity they realize for free, the more correct a wide range approach becomes.

Right. Think about button range construction and which spots are those where the button makes money? If you're getting action on your button raises, you want the action to come from the big blind. Only huge hands really welcome the action from the small blind. With the (avg hand in your range) you prefer they all fold, but if someone is going to play I'm hoping it's the big blind. Thus naturally the button's ev will suffer as a result of the small blind calling(if someone is profiting by calling in the small blind, they're taking away profit from the bettor and sharing it with the big blind).

This is why it's imperative to tighten your button range with a loose aggressive player in the small blind.

This is also why (tight small blind + loose passive big blind) is the ideal blind combination for the button's ev as you can play a lot of hands and realize a ton of equity for very cheap on average.

So how does that all relate to cbet freq 3way in a SRP with strong opponents? Preflop range construction dictates blind defense range dictates flop strategy. Postflop play then is a "crime of opportunity" in the sense that we are presented with decisions preflop that lead us to postflop situations and the opportunity to make good plays or bad plays postflop.

What do you(anyone) think a good set of (btn vs sb vs bb) ranges look like for 2x bb pfr, 2.5x bb pfr, 3x bb pfr, 3.5x bb pfr? Of course it should happen most often in a 2x bb pfr pot and least often in 3.5x bb pfr, and the ranges for each should vary with preflop raise size.