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Categorize Flop Combinations Categorize Flop Combinations

07-12-2019 , 07:02 AM
Hi all,

I want to create my own library of flops. Thus whenever I study a new- or old flop-situation, I can store, or find it quickly in the relevant folder.

I attached an image of I think all the flop-combinations, but I found it hard for me to recognize the right flop-type,out of the long list.

Question: Is there an easy way to categorize or learn all the flop-combinations.

Thank you in advanced.

Categorize Flop Combinations Quote
07-12-2019 , 02:45 PM
I think this has mostly been done already. Here's
a link for subsets of flops. I'm sure they're categorized somewhere (I've seen this done before, I just don't have the charts myself). https://www.piosolver.com/blogs/news...the-whole-game

(Think that's what you're asking about, sort of)
Categorize Flop Combinations Quote
07-12-2019 , 03:06 PM
I know of the subsets method, I just wondered if there is a shorter list for categorizing them, or a way to recognize and learn all the flop-types I attached, I am really bad in this.
Categorize Flop Combinations Quote
07-12-2019 , 05:20 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by TH3CLOWN
I know of the subsets method, I just wondered if there is a shorter list for categorizing them, or a way to recognize and learn all the flop-types I attached, I am really bad in this.
Think you mean to like put them into software to study or?
Categorize Flop Combinations Quote
07-16-2019 , 02:46 AM
That is not the best way to go about it. Rather, for each position couple you should categorize flops on a spectrum from maximally favoring your range to maximally favoring the opponents range.

So when you study say AK7r you don't say, "oh this is what I do on two high card rainbow board", instead you say "this is what I do on a flop that's very close to the top of my range". The distinction is subtle but important because when categorized in this way two very different textures can actually end up playing very similarly. If you imagine a situation where the opponent's range only contains middling combinations, then from your uncapped perspective AK7r and 233r are actually very similar boards, even though the card ranks would tell you otherwise.

Essentially the range advantage tells you more about how you should play a flop than it's texture. So I would either categorize flops by equity or EV or nuts advantage or an average of those 3.
Categorize Flop Combinations Quote
07-16-2019 , 03:58 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by getmeoffcompletely
That is not the best way to go about it. Rather, for each position couple you should categorize flops on a spectrum from maximally favoring your range to maximally favoring the opponents range.

So when you study say AK7r you don't say, "oh this is what I do on two high card rainbow board", instead you say "this is what I do on a flop that's very close to the top of my range". The distinction is subtle but important because when categorized in this way two very different textures can actually end up playing very similarly. If you imagine a situation where the opponent's range only contains middling combinations, then from your uncapped perspective AK7r and 233r are actually very similar boards, even though the card ranks would tell you otherwise.

Essentially the range advantage tells you more about how you should play a flop than it's texture. So I would either categorize flops by equity or EV or nuts advantage or an average of those 3.
This is super informative and enlightening, thanks for sharing.
Categorize Flop Combinations Quote
07-16-2019 , 05:35 PM
+1 thanks for sharing @getmeoffcompletely
Categorize Flop Combinations Quote
07-16-2019 , 10:10 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by getmeoffcompletely
That is not the best way to go about it. Rather, for each position couple you should categorize flops on a spectrum from maximally favoring your range to maximally favoring the opponents range.

So when you study say AK7r you don't say, "oh this is what I do on two high card rainbow board", instead you say "this is what I do on a flop that's very close to the top of my range". The distinction is subtle but important because when categorized in this way two very different textures can actually end up playing very similarly. If you imagine a situation where the opponent's range only contains middling combinations, then from your uncapped perspective AK7r and 233r are actually very similar boards, even though the card ranks would tell you otherwise.

Essentially the range advantage tells you more about how you should play a flop than it's texture. So I would either categorize flops by equity or EV or nuts advantage or an average of those 3.

Spicy stuff here! Thanks for sharing
Categorize Flop Combinations Quote
07-19-2019 , 01:55 PM
I tried to categorize a range of flops last year and came up with a more simple list of general "types". IIRC, they were:

(1) A-high dry,
(2) Broadway-high dry,
(3) Number-high dry,
(4) A-high double suited,
(5) Broadway-high double suited,
(6) Number-high double suited,
(7) A-high paired,
(8) Broadway-high paired,
(9) Number-high paired,
(10) A-high paired & double suited,
(11) Broadway-high paired & double suited,
(12) Number-high paired & double suited,
(13) Three-to-a-straight,
(14) Three-of-same-suit (ex: 2s6sKs),
(15) Three-of-same-card (ex: JsJcJh).

In other words, I more or less ranked them from least "scary" (top) to most "scary" (bottom). The only thing I don't like about your list is counting 1-gappers and 2-gappers as their own type of flop; this seems overly complicated and confusing. When I use the term "Broadway-high", I mean boards where the highest card is either a King, Queen, Jack, or Ten and when I use the term "Number-high" I mean boards where the highest card is 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, or 9 specifically (yes, I included Ten as a "Broadway" card; technically true or not, the idea is the same in terms of just trying to easily categorize them). Also by "Dry," i mean no connected or suited cards.

If you take into account this general list and the idea that it does rank them from least "scary" to most "scary", I remember concluding that when my opponent double or triple barrels the further down the list of flop types, the more polarized their range. Or in other words, the more scary the board and further down the list, the more times we could expect an opponent to be bluffing based purely on the board (obviously not factoring in things like position or range advantage).
Categorize Flop Combinations Quote
08-27-2019 , 04:36 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by TexasKK
I tried to categorize a range of flops last year and came up with a more simple list of general "types". IIRC, they were:

(1) A-high dry,
(2) Broadway-high dry,
(3) Number-high dry,
(4) A-high double suited,
(5) Broadway-high double suited,
(6) Number-high double suited,
(7) A-high paired,
(8) Broadway-high paired,
(9) Number-high paired,
(10) A-high paired & double suited,
(11) Broadway-high paired & double suited,
(12) Number-high paired & double suited,
(13) Three-to-a-straight,
(14) Three-of-same-suit (ex: 2s6sKs),
(15) Three-of-same-card (ex: JsJcJh).

In other words, I more or less ranked them from least "scary" (top) to most "scary" (bottom). The only thing I don't like about your list is counting 1-gappers and 2-gappers as their own type of flop; this seems overly complicated and confusing. When I use the term "Broadway-high", I mean boards where the highest card is either a King, Queen, Jack, or Ten and when I use the term "Number-high" I mean boards where the highest card is 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, or 9 specifically (yes, I included Ten as a "Broadway" card; technically true or not, the idea is the same in terms of just trying to easily categorize them). Also by "Dry," i mean no connected or suited cards.

If you take into account this general list and the idea that it does rank them from least "scary" to most "scary", I remember concluding that when my opponent double or triple barrels the further down the list of flop types, the more polarized their range. Or in other words, the more scary the board and further down the list, the more times we could expect an opponent to be bluffing based purely on the board (obviously not factoring in things like position or range advantage).
Hello!

How are your tests going? What is your feedback about this categorization you suggested? I'm studying ways to categorize flops in order to study using solvers, but I didn't decide yet which categories I'll use.

I was wondering using your list, but at least adding a "2-5" and "6-9" categories before.

Oh, and what do you mean by "(13) Three-to-a-straight"?

Thank you. :- )
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