FICS regularly has around the same number of players logged on as ICC these days, and I think BabasChess is a far superior interface to any of the others. Here is a screenshot gallery that I maintain for it:
http://gorgonian.tumblr.com
FICS lacks on the high end of competition, but for non-titled players, there is plenty to play against. There are titled players there, too, they just prefer incognito on FICS, so they aren't always labelled.
I think playchess's interface is lolbad, personally.