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6/1* 6/1*

04-26-2014 , 12:44 PM
A lot of times in the early game (by the 3rd - 5th move) the computer recommends taking 6/1*. This comes up so often. Are there any general rules about when moving 6/1* is a good idea and when it isn't, especially in regards to the very early game? This comes up so many times that I figured it was futile to post any specific position.
6/1* Quote
04-26-2014 , 01:15 PM
Even though it is an anti-positional move it's used often as a tempo play, f. e. when oponent has several builders for the 5Point. By hitting on the 1Point you can prevent him from making the point and often it's right to split your back checkers.
6/1* Quote
04-26-2014 , 02:27 PM
You have to hit the one point even when your opponent slot the bar point. I.e. Something like 6-2: 24/18 13/11 5-4 changing coordinates split 24/20 and 6/1*
6/1* Quote
04-26-2014 , 03:15 PM

Black to Play 5-4

It can happen as early as the second roll.

In the position above, White’s builder on his 9pt has created many new point-making rolls for him. Those rolls include 21, 41, 43, 52, 54, 62, and 63, which make his 3pt, 4pt, 5pt, or 7pt. That’s in addition to the 31, 42, 53, 61, and doublets that White would have even without a buider on the 9pt.

Hit and split (X = 24/20, 6/1*) is a viable option against that kind of point-making power. Equally good is the non-hitting split (S = 24/20, 13/8). Run (R = 24/15) is very close.




Black to Play 5-2

In this third-roll position, Black was hoping to make his 4pt, 5pt, or 7pt. Instead, he has this indifferent 52 to play. Although White’s 11pt builder is not as potent as a 9pt builder, hitting and covering the 11pt (H = 13/11, 6/1*) makes the best use of a 5 by Black. It is natural to make the 11pt using the 2, and that means there are few ways to play a 5. Black’s second-best 5 is to slot his 5pt, but that play is a small error.

Mike
6/1* Quote
04-26-2014 , 03:22 PM
Thanks Taper. Are there any similar positions where not taking 6/1* is a large error, or is it usually just a small difference in equity in these early game situations?
6/1* Quote
04-26-2014 , 04:53 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ender1204
Are there any similar positions where not taking 6/1* is a large error, or is it usually just a small difference in equity in these early game situations?

Black to Play 5-1

What would you play in this position?

This time it’s a whopper to make the tempo hit (X = 24/23, 6/1*)! The best play is to create a distraction by coming out to the bar point (U = 24/18). You are likely to be hit there, but many of the rolls that hit are duplicated. White could also use them to make a point. For instance, after Black plays 24/18, how would you play 41 as White?

I am sure there are cases when failing to make a tempo hit is just as bad as hitting would be here.

Mike
6/1* Quote
04-26-2014 , 05:21 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ender1204
Are there any similar positions where not taking 6/1* is a large error, or is it usually just a small difference in equity in these early game situations?

Black to Play 5-2

In this second-roll position, not hitting is a pretty large error, more than 0.05. The best play is hit-and-split (X = 24/22, 6/1*), which duplicates 6s and threatens White’s builder in the outfield.

Note once again, the potency of the 9pt builder. Failing to hit after an opening 62-split is also an error, but not nearly as large as when your opponent has a builder on his 9pt.

When your opponent opens with 63-split, and you roll 52, hitting is optional. It is not an error to forego the hit. Can you explain the difference between this and the other 6x-splits?

Mike

Last edited by Taper_Mike; 04-26-2014 at 05:27 PM.
6/1* Quote
04-26-2014 , 06:44 PM
Intrigued to read what's different about the 63-split.

Also, in the position above, I don't see the duplicated 6s after the 24/22 6/1* move.
6/1* Quote
04-26-2014 , 08:54 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by uberkuber
In the position above, I don't see the duplicated 6s after the 24/22 6/1* move.
Whoops! My mistake.

The opponent will have bad 6s from the bar, but there is no duplication.

Mike
6/1* Quote
04-28-2014 , 12:07 AM
My Summarized comments from Robertie 501 Problems:

From early on in the book...
Hitting on the ace-point…
a. Especially common when your opponent has split to your bar.
b. Also common as a tempo move – take away half your opponent’s roll if you are under pressure.
c. Once you hit the ace, cover it up at the earliest opportunity.
d. Note with the better board and less material available to prime, your game plan now is to attack.

Later on in the book...
Hitting on the ace point …
a. In general, be reluctant to hit on the ace-point, especially if you have no board, or the position is complicated.
b. If you have hit on the ace-point, be eager to cover the blot, rather than leaving it around to be hit later. A strong home board is worth having.

hitting on the ace in the opening...
Building on what Taper_Mike posted (these are my comments now)

a. If guy splits with 21, 41, or 51 and you roll 41 it is right to hit two with 6/2*/1*.

* Note if guy splits to your 5 point then you never hit two with 41. (example: 54 split 24/20, 13/8) you play 41 6/5* and either 13/9 or 24/20 to fight for the five point. Don't hit the ace.

b. Hitting loose on the ace as a tempo play. Only when you roll a bad 5 against 6X, or in case of 41S-54 (13/9, 24/23).

* as taper_mike mentioned the 9 point builder is really strong so are hitting loose to distract him from playing the whole roll and making a good offensive point

* When opponent splits to the bar you are also hitting mainly to take away half the roll. Left undisturbed opponent would do something good for sure with his turn - anchor up make a point, escape.

c. if guy splits to the bar with 6X, and you roll 65, then play 13/7*, 6/1* (another case where hitting loose on the ace is right)

d. in all other reply rolls, it is wrong to hit two on the ace. meaning never play from the 8 point 8/5*/1*. Also never play 51 as 8/7*, 6/1* and never 41 as 6/5*/1*
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