Ok I'm bored, so I thought I'd write up another place high up on my list of recommended places to travel: Myanmar!
the infamous Bagan
This is one of my favorite places. If I was judging countries with a priority on having a unique cultural experience, Myanmar is my number one. I mean as far as tourist attractions go, once you get beyond the temples and pagodas there isn't a whole lot. But never in my life have I enjoyed just wandering around and watching daily life go by as I did in Myanmar. I'm not exactly sure why I was so smitten, but it's probably has something to due with fact that Myanmar is so underdeveloped and in many places you feel like you could be walking around in the 1950's or hell maybe even the 1850's. Plus I loved inquisitiveness and friendliness of the locals, the monks abound, the men's lungyi's and the women's faces painted with thanaka bark, the oxen prattling down the street, the little coffee shops, their love for football and beer, so many things.
Most people that go to Myanmar usually just come to visit the 'Big 4' meaning Yangon, Mandalay, Bagan, and Inle Lake. And while all those places are certainly worth visiting, especially Bagan, there are many more interesting places around the country, so I'm going to focus on them. More specifically the northern part of the country. If you like getting off the beaten track a little bit and somewhat more adventurous travel, Myanmar is perfect for you.
When I was there (2013) I flew to Mandalay first, then to Bagan, then bused it a little north to town called Monywa, then to Schwebo, took the train all the way up to Myitkyina, the capital of the Kachin State and then took a boat back south down the Irawaddy river.
blue for bus, green for train, red for boat. The boat journey from Myitkyina to Mandalay was supposed to take 4 full days, but we had enough after 3 and decided to go back by train instead.
Monywa: the big buddha looms in the distance
the laying down buddha:
countryside:
buddhas in caves:
wedding celebrations:
Train station at Shwebo:
The train is pretty interesting experience in itself. The scenery is nice, it's all locals, but it was seriously the most bumpy, swaying, and lurching train I have ever been ridden. At some points your ass is getting removed from your seat and getting solid airtime and there is just no avoiding it. Just make sure your stuff is fastened securely overhead! I did a side trip to a place called Indawgyi lake, which only averages one or two tourists a day during high season. You have to get off the train and then wait with the locals for a truck and then hop on back. 3 hours from there. Hopefully there is a nice bag of rice to sit on!
There is one guesthouse in town and by looking at the guestbook you can tell how few tourists the place gets. The first night I met an American NGO worker and his Burmese girlfriend, which was nice because I got to learn all the phrases I needed to in Burmese. But they left the next morning, so I had the whole place to myself after that. There are basically 3 things you can do here, rent a bicycle and bike as far as the military checkpoints will let you, take a guide and hike up a river to a waterfall, and rent a kayak to go out on the lake. They told me I needed a guide for this in case I'd flip over my kayak and drowned, but I wasn't having any of that bs. The kayaking is definitely the best part, but it does get hot as hell during the middle of the day in the middle of the lake. It's also fun to watch all the local fishermen.
my neighbors on the train
the ride on the back of the truck:
pagoda in the middle of the lake:
monk taking my photo as I took his, ha
on the lake in my kayak at sunset:
the morning fog and the fishermen coming in
getting the water
the dusty roads
After 2d3n I hopped on the back of another truck and headed back to the train station and then caught a train up to Myitkyina.
They love burning trash by the side of the road, which does make for some pretty cool photos
There really isn't a whole lot to do in town. There was supposed to be a local festival going on but it turns out the government had shut it down for the third straight year. Some of the minority ethnicities do not get along well with national government. Well that's an understatement. The Kachin Independence Army (KIA) has been fighting the government forces for years and the reason why most areas around Myitkyina are closed off to tourists. But I did find out the boat route back to Mandalay was open for the first time in a year or two, so why not?! The trip would be 4 days down the vast Irawaddy river.
My favorite town was Bhamo, a bustling port city, which also had a fascinating bamboo bridge stretching over one of the smaller rivers. But as much as I liked all the towns we stopped at, spending 8 hours a day on the wooden benches of the boat and not really seeing a whole lot scenery on the river got kind of boring. So we decided to stop at a town called Katha, which is known for being where George Orwell lived during his Burmese days.
foggy morning in Katha
We ended up taking the night train back to Mandalay, which was a thoroughly terrible idea, being how bumpy and shakey the whole thing is, but eventually we made it back to Mandalay. So besides the boat trip being a bit too long, I thoroughly enjoyed this part of country, which has a lot to offer tourists, even though you won't be encountering many others. My recommendation for you is to get to Myanmar because it's an awesome country and try and get outside the big 4 if you can!