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Old 05-16-2017, 11:46 PM   #301
Spenda
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Re: Spenda's Totally Livin...with Colitis Log

Exercise 123

Bouldering 2 hours

In my regular gym there are about 16 total sections that have routes from V0-V9 so I decided to go to each section and do a cycle of V1, V2, and V3. Moving to the next when done.

I flashed my first 4 cycles which was sweet. Some of the V3's were repeats but still nice. Finally failed on a V2 but picked up the beta from someone I struck up a conversation with and climbed with most of the night. He was hitting V5's so it was cool to watch and I learned a couple things footwork wise.

Overall I'm at a point where I can flash most V2's if I take a minute to plan my route. V3's I'd say I'm 50/50 to complete over a session. I can tell pretty quickly if the problem is doable.
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Old 05-18-2017, 09:53 AM   #302
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Re: Spenda's Totally Livin...with Colitis Log

In Houston for a few days. Staying at a nice marriot marquis, the gym is unreal as far as hotel gyms go

Exercise 124

Pull-ups 3x8xBW

SS1 3 sets
Horizontal rows
Rope pull downs

SS2 3 sets
One arm DB rows 8x75
Lat pulldowns

SS3 3 sets
Cable delt flys
DB shrugs

Ab and bicep work
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Old 05-19-2017, 11:37 AM   #303
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Re: Spenda's Totally Livin...with Colitis Log

Exercise 125

Press
7x100
10x75
10x75
10x75

Front raises 3 sets

Incline bench 3x10x95

SS 3 sets
Side raises
BTN press

Tricep push downs 4 sets

This workout felt better on my elbow than yesterday's back workout. So I guess I have no clue what's really aggravating it.
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Old 05-20-2017, 08:04 PM   #304
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Re: Spenda's Totally Livin...with Colitis Log

2.52 mile run in 21:00 (8:19 pace)

Exercise 126

Bouldering 3 hours

Started the session flashing all the V1's in the gym, 18 total.

From there just worked around the gym hitting random V2's and V3's.

Hit my first V3+/V4- today. Sadly recorded myself missing it 6x and when I actually sent it I wasn't filming.
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Old 05-21-2017, 10:55 AM   #305
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Re: Spenda's Totally Livin...with Colitis Log

Woke up super early to go play golf. Lightning storm on the way there so scrapped it and worked out instead. A lot of factors led to this being a ****ty workout but happy I got it in nonetheless.

Bench
4x155
8x140
10x125
8x115

Cable flys 4 sets
DB bench 3 sets

SS 3 sets
Cable flys
Incline push-ups
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Old 05-21-2017, 11:19 AM   #306
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Re: Spenda's Totally Livin...with Colitis Log

How does moving up to 8 reps for pullups feel?

I'm about to restart them treading in the 5-6 rep range, gonna kind of do what you did and attack volume before intensity.

18 V1's is a lot of ****ing climbing!
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Old 05-21-2017, 06:05 PM   #307
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Re: Spenda's Totally Livin...with Colitis Log

Quote:
Originally Posted by ActionJeff View Post
How does moving up to 8 reps for pullups feel?

I'm about to restart them treading in the 5-6 rep range, gonna kind of do what you did and attack volume before intensity.

18 V1's is a lot of ****ing climbing!
8 reps seems ok, doing them more for hypertrophy than climbing. For climbing doing heavier weighted chins might be better? I haven't done weighted chins in forever. Probably need to but I think that's what was bothering my elbows. I stupidly joined in on a pointless exercise yesterday, trying to campus a V1's with some guys I always bump into at my home gym. Felt it in my left arm afterwards. Idiot.

18 sounds like a lot, takes me about 40 minutes. Then I have the rest of my session to work on some projects.

Tried climbing this afternoon and my elbows were not having it. Probably because my hands weren't fully recovered and thus I was climbing with bent arms to make up for it. Bad decision to go but I work up so early and was bored by noon. Managed to complete just one V2 and failed a couple V3's that were doable. After each attempt I was in serious pain.

More grip/finger work is needed just have to figure out how to fit it into programming.
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Old 05-22-2017, 06:29 AM   #308
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Re: Spenda's Totally Livin...with Colitis Log

Ever considered rice bucket things (eg link)?
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Old 05-22-2017, 12:16 PM   #309
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Re: Spenda's Totally Livin...with Colitis Log

Quote:
Originally Posted by Aidan View Post
Ever considered rice bucket things (eg link)?
Seattle Bouldering Project had them, saw a few people doing some work with them. I had heard of doing the rice buckets but that was the first time seeing it in a gym.

I need to figure out where to place work like this into my schedule. I also need to improve my finger/hand/forearm activity recovery protocols as I'm doing nothing right now.
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Old 05-22-2017, 05:30 PM   #310
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Re: Spenda's Totally Livin...with Colitis Log

Exercise 128

DL
3x280 @9.5
8x230
8x230
8x230

Wiped out

BB rows 3x10x135

SS1 3 sets
DB rdls
DB shrugs

SS2 3 sets
Lat pulldowns
Leg curls
Read delt flys

Random shrug and curl work.

Main goal was 5x285 DL this "cycle". Clearly not happening but if I can muster 3x285 next week I'll consider that pretty good for me.
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Old 05-22-2017, 09:48 PM   #311
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Re: Spenda's Totally Livin...with Colitis Log

Quote:
Originally Posted by Spenda View Post
8 reps seems ok, doing them more for hypertrophy than climbing. For climbing doing heavier weighted chins might be better? I haven't done weighted chins in forever. Probably need to but I think that's what was bothering my elbows. I stupidly joined in on a pointless exercise yesterday, trying to campus a V1's with some guys I always bump into at my home gym. Felt it in my left arm afterwards. Idiot.

18 sounds like a lot, takes me about 40 minutes. Then I have the rest of my session to work on some projects.

Tried climbing this afternoon and my elbows were not having it. Probably because my hands weren't fully recovered and thus I was climbing with bent arms to make up for it. Bad decision to go but I work up so early and was bored by noon. Managed to complete just one V2 and failed a couple V3's that were doable. After each attempt I was in serious pain.

More grip/finger work is needed just have to figure out how to fit it into programming.
Weighted chins are probably better for climbing yeah. At least almost every one of the V12+ climbers I've heard on the Training Beta podcast do them. No one ever really talks about bw pullups being important.

That being said there's no way it can hurt to have a base of 15-20 pullups and these numbers are consistent with the strength to do a one arm chin
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Old 05-23-2017, 05:16 PM   #312
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Re: Spenda's Totally Livin...with Colitis Log

Exercise 129

Press
7x105

SS1 3 sets
Press 12x75
Chins 5xBW+25

SS2 3 sets
Arnold press
Front raises

SS3 6 sets
Side raises
Reverse crunches

Random push up, plank, battle rope and dead hang work.
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Old Today, 12:02 AM   #313
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Re: Spenda's Totally Livin...with Colitis Log

Mile run 7:03

Exercise 130

Bouldering 2 hours

Sent two V3+/V4- problems plus a handful other V2/V3's. Of course when I was filming I choked, maybe I'll have decent video of me completing some problems soon.
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