I've enjoyed participating and following along with several of the logs here, so I figured I'd start one of my own.
Goals: This will be my 5th season climbing. I've primarily bouldered and dabbled in sport climbing. This year I've decided to make a push to try and build out my sport climbing pyramid. I still plan on bouldering but sport climbing is going to take a front seat, at least until the absolute coldest months.
Ideally, I'd like to solidify myself at the 12a range on sport. If things go extremely well, perhaps I'm able to tick a 12b or two in the early spring. That may be optimistic though.
Weaknesses: Physically, I think I am already capable of climbing in the 12a range. The biggest thing to work on will be learning to really try hard on a rope. It is a different experience than trying hard on a boulder problem. Staying relaxed and moving fluidly while pumped and under duress are weak points for me. I'm hoping this improves as I get more experience.
8/30:
End of a de-load week.
I spent some time trying to dial a new ancap workout. Basically, I'll do two hard boulders separated by 30 seconds of easy climbing. I figure the problem in this video is roughly V3ish. If I can fire an 8-10 move V3-V4 twice with 30 seconds of easily climbing in between my strength endurance should be adequate for anything I'll encounter on a 12a route in the area.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rqWo_P2zRkw
A couple of things to note: 1) My form broke down a bit on the second rep. I just didn't drive hard enough with my lower body when I was tired. 2) I only did 15s of easy climbing. I'll need to add a down climb on the ladder to the right to hit the correct time. Ideally, I'll be able to add another hand move to this problem and do the 30s of easy climbing by the end of 6-8 weeks.
Also, I realized that I am holding too much tension on holds I don't like. This isn't a problem on an 8-10 move boulder, but has a big cumulative effect on routes. This is something more experienced route climbers talk about and is one of the many skill aspects to route climbing fitness that I am lacking. I understood this logically, but I felt it for the first time on the wall Friday.