4/24

DB bench 45x14 60x5
70x11,8

4/23 rest

4/22

Deadlift 140x3 3x1
DL+SLDL 125x5
Deadlift 125 5x1

Climb 1 hour

-DL rounded again on rep 2 and 3. However my SLDL at only 15kg lighter was totally fine even with me getting near parallel to the floor. Maybe next week I should just do 125x5 and then see what I have in me for a heavier set

-Hip still hurts trying to squat. Gonna rehab this week with some reverse lunges, stretching, one leg RDL, bodyweight squats, then try the bulgarian split squats again

-Going to work the 75's next week's max reps workout, and the 80's the following week.

4/25

Climb 1.5 hours

Worked V1 and V2. Sent an old V1 I've been working the start on for a month

4/26

rest

BW 185.8

11lb to go

Osteopath doctor diagnosed me with a strain in my right adductor. Since the same area was hurting when I squatted a few months ago, I guess I've had this problem for a while. Good thing I stopped adding weight at 95kg, that could have gotten nasty

I'm deliberating between getting physical therapy and just rehabbing it on my own.

Deadlifting this week either way. Gonna switch from 140x3 to 125x5 (with ideal form) and go from there

4/30 one arm pullups 1x2 right, 1x1 left (holding bicep with opposite hand)

climb 1 hour (medium intensity) projecting V2-V3

bw: 183.5

4/29 rest

4/28

one arm dead hangs: 17 seconds right hand (big PR)
3 sets of pullup lockoffs at the top to non failure

climb 1 hour

Forgot to log my last climb

CoC 1 and .5 20-25 reps the past week. Closing the #1 for 2-3 reps now on both hands. Moving up to the 1.5 soon

4/27

DB Bench 40x10 55x5 65x2 75 2x5 70 2x5
Incline 60 2x5

Pullups 12,7,7

Cable Row 130x10

Was super weak on bench and row so I went light and left without doing face pulls. Maybe I need a 4th rest day for bench after max reps day. Volume/intensity combo may be a little too high. That being said I've lost 7-8 pounds the past 3-4 weeks so this isn't surprising.

Questioning whether I should be bothering with Incline when I am this weak on DB bench and when my shoulder mobility is compromised. My shoulders are already taking a beating climbing.

nice to see another climber, glgl. do you mostly boulder?

Thanks, seems there are a few of us on here. Yeah, I've mostly been bouldering since I started earlier this year. I've experimented with a bit of top rope and enjoyed it, but I haven't ventured beyond the 5.8 mark yet.

4/30

Sent two new V2 and the old V3. Great short session

5/1

DB Bench 45x5 55x4 65x3 75x8 65x11

Had 10 minutes for a workout. Added 1 rep on the 75's. Pretty hard to improve on benching while losing weight, but my programming this past month hasn't been helpful

Been studying Sheiko and decided to revamp my bench program. Won't go full Sheiko until I'm done cutting

BW:182.5

5/2

bouldering 2 hours

medium volume medium intensity

Took down most of my old V2 routes and two V1s in the cave. Also fell on my face from 10 feet up attempting a heel hook.

5/3

Pullups close grip 2x2 5x5 2x3 2x2
total: 39

New setup

Pullups

Day A: Volume (2x2 5x5 2x3 2x2)

Day B: Intensity: warmup, 1x max reps

Day A's 5x5 will slowly progress to higher volume, reps Day B is just one set of max clean reps, with a max effort set where I grind an extra couple reps every 2 weeks. I think this may work better now than training pullups for a few high intensity sets once a week, but I'll keep experimenting.

Here's the Sheiko inspired DB Bench program I designed.

Day A 50x5 55x4 60x3 65 2x3 75 2x2 80 1x2 75 2x2 65 2x3 60x5 50x10
Day B 50x5 60x4 65x3 70x2 80x5
Day A 50x5 55x4 60x3 65 2x3 75 2x2 80 2x2 85 2x1 80 2x2 75 2x2 65 2x3 60x5 55x8 50x10
Day B 50x5 60x4 70 6x3
Day A 50x5 55x4 60x3 65 2x3 75 2x2 80 2x2 85 2x2 90 1x2 80 2x2 75 2x2 65 2x3 60x5 55x8 50x10
Day B 50x5 60x4 70 6x3
Day A 50x5 55x4 60x3 70 2x3 75 2x2 85 2x2 75 2x2 70 2x3 65 2x3 60x5 50x10
Day B 50x5 60 3x3 70 3x3

May make slight increases during the program depending on progress

Once my adductor is healed I'll be back to squatting and deadlifting 2x and 1x a week respectively. Physical therapy starts next Weds.

Wrote down the wrong Day B programming above. The program I was modeling off of was an A B C and the C day was essentially a rest day. I also slightly lowered intensity on day A because I think I'm a little overtrained on bench due to neglecting volume and over emphasizing intensity the past month or so.

I should probably man up and do day C but I'm dieting and I think that switching from 2 days to 3 might be a problem

5/5

Pull-ups close grip 2x2 1x3 1x5 1x11
1 arm dead hang (bent elbow) 2x3-4 sec/arm

DB bench Sheiko inspired program day 1
30x12 50x5 55x4 60x3 65 2x3 70 2x2 75x2 70 2x2 65 2x3 60x5 50x10
Face Pull 25x10 35x10 45x10
Cable row 80x10 120x10 140x9

Face pulls are back to my original technique with the elbows further down. The elbows further out/up seemed to be causing some shoulder impingement.

Left hand is a little sore around the pinky joint, might need a few days rest

5/4

Bouldering 1 hour

Program will peak at 90's for 2x2 Day B of week 4. If weight loss complications force the issue I'll lower to the 85's

DB Bench Press

Day A 50x5 55x4 60x3 65 2x3 75 2x2 80 1x2 75 2x2 65 2x3 60x5 50x10
Day B 50x5 60x5 65x4 70x4 75x2x3 80 3x2
Day C 50x5 60x4 70x6

Day A 50x5 55x4 60x3 65 2x3 75 2x2 80 2x2 85 2x1 80 2x2 75 2x2 65 2x3 60x5 55x8 50x10
Day B 50x5 60x5 65x4 70x4 75x2x3 80 3x2
Day C 50x5 60x4 70 6x3

Day A 50x5 55x4 60x3 65 2x3 75 2x2 80 2x2 85 2x2 90 1x2 80 2x2 75 2x2 65 2x3 60x5 55x8 50x10
Day B 50x5 60x5 65x4 70x4 75x2x3 80 2x3 85 2x2
Day C 50x5 60x4 70 6x3

Day A 50x5 55x4 60x3 70 2x3 75 2x2 85 2x2 75 2x2 70 2x3 65 2x3 60x5 50x10
Day B 50x5 60x5 65x4 70x4 75x2x3 80 2x3 90 2x2
Day C 50x5 60 3x3 70 3x3

Assistance: Pullups, Cable Row, Face Pull, Lockoffs, Dead Hangs, one arm pullups, hanging ab work (isometrics)

Adding in DB Flies for stretch/therapeutic benefits as Sheiko advises

Physical therapy for my adductor is starting this Weds

Left A2 pully is still sore but looks to have mostly healed overnight

5/6

Hanging V sit to L sit- hold
3 sets. 30 seconds on set 1.

One Arm Pull-up (right arm) 1x1
(left hand on right bicep)

One Arm Dead Hang (arm slightly bent)
2x2-3 seconds

One Arm Hanging L sit (hand on bicep, arm bent)
2x3-4 seconds right, 2x1-2 seconds left

Taking off climbing until next Saturday. Giving hands a break. These guys who say to tape your fingers and keep climbing are nuts

Coming week:

Sun Rest
Mon DB Bench (Sheiko Day B: 80 3x2). Face Pull.
Tues Pullups Volume 5x5. Dead Hangs. Hanging Isometrics.
Weds DB Bench (Sheiko day C: recovery). Physical Therapy (hip)
Thurs Pullups Intensity (1x80-90%)
Fri DB Bench Sheiko Day A (Volume). Cable Row. Face Pull
Sat Max Effort Climb
Sun Dead Hangs. Hanging Isometrics. (Could move to Monday depending)

Pinky continues to hurt. Started benching and realized I need at least a few more days for it to heal. Hope it's good to go for my climb Saturday. Pullups were no problem despite the grip width change

5/9

DB Bench 50x5 Quit

Pull-ups (medium-wide grip) 1x2 1x3 1x5
One arm pull-up (left hand on bicep) 3x1 right
Pull-ups (medium-wide grip) 5x5 2x3

total reps: 41
one arm reps: 3



5/8 rest

5/7 rest

Saw physical therapist. Going to be 4-8 weeks. Can climb on the hip no problem. My right hamstring is apparently overactive. No squatting. No V10 heel hooks.

Introducing a few new movements, clamshells and side planks and one leg rdls. I've been neglecting side planks because I thought my form was bad. But apparently its basically ideal. Sweet.

Quitting bilateral squatting semi-indefinitely. I need to lose weight and if any LBM has to go I would prefer it be in the legs. Furthermore, bilateral squats have almost no transfer to my sport at all.

That being said I am introducing *more* leg work than previously. Gonna get dynamic, start moving side to side and start doing one leg work. Just going to have to go slow, the goal is to strengthen the hip to heal it first.

I was given the OK to deadlift and will reintroduce those next week.

Unfortunately I did a right hand dead hang yesterday without the arm bent and my right lat sort of gave out. Never doing that again. It's mostly just tight, and the armpit area is a bit sore. Did pullups for 2x2 and experienced some discomfort. Pushing back pullups to Saturday.

After a ton of research into Sheiko on this forum: http://sheiko-program.ru/forum/index.php

I have figured some things out about pullup programming:

(1) The constant maxing I did when I re-started pullups only worked for a little bit. The high intensity training I did after that was OK but inconsistent and too low on volume and warmups.

(2) 50% average intensity is sustainable, even training 3x/week, for a large volume, and shouldn't interfere too much with climbing, which for me is almost entirely limited by technique and finger strength/endurance.

Intensity can peak as high as 70%+ eventually. But since I am climbing on the side and am in intermediate mode for pullups and bodyweight training in general, plus am doing high intensity one arm work, 50-60% avg. intensity is more than acceptable for at least one training cycle.

So That all being said my plan is, I'll increase volume throughout the month and then maintain volume and increase intensity. Avg. intensity of 50% is 6 reps, but I'll be pyramiding so I'll still be working with sets in the 8-10 rep range as the month progresses, and possibly a bit higher if my strength is increasing. I'm also adding in a low volume of weighted work, starting with 60% intensity or so and increasing to a heavy 1-2x2 over a month or so

5/10

V sit 3x5 seconds

Physical therapy: clamshells, marching glute bridges, side planks


5/11 pull-ups 2x2 3x3

tweaked my right lat or teres doing a right hand dead hang without arm bend. never again. Did light pull-ups for stretch. Will do the same Saturday and then go for my pyramid workout early next week.

5/12 RDL 60x20 DL 70x5 85x4 100x2x3

Re-introduced some easy light Deads to see how the movement felt, and see if my hip was OK with it. No problems. Will do 110x2 and 120x2 next week




No more SLDL until my right hip gets in order. Here's my last workout. So long, and thanks for all the gainz

5/12

CoC .5 1x3
No.1 1x4 (PR)

5/13

CoC .5 1x3 No.1 3x1
1.5x2 reps (no close)

Climb 4.5 hours

Sent a few new routes including flashing a new V2. V3-4 continues to be really hard. Getting pretty near the end of the route of a V3 on the wall.

left pinky mostly better, climbing was no problem.

How many problems/attempts are you doing in 4.5 hours?

I probably put in 7-8 attempts below V2 and sent them all eventually, 3 V1 problems and warmups at V0, and maybe 20 short partial attempts projecting and 12-15 attempting the full route

I also like to go on a V5-V6 and try a single move, or do isometrics hanging on to parts of the route for the V7-8 problems my climbing partner is projecting

Normally I go for 2 hours with decent intensity and long rests and work 3-4 different V1-V2 problems. Now that I'm projecting more V3+ I work slower and send a lot less

5/14

DB Bench Sheiko Beginners Program Day 1:

30x10 50x5 60 2x3 65 2x3 75 2x2 80x2 75 2x2 65 2x3 60x5 50x10





This was great. I blew through the first half of the pyramid and took longer rests between the doubles at 75 and 80, then sped through the remainder. I set my bench estimate 5% high or so for this training cycle and wasn't sure I'd be able to handle the volume, but NP.

Left hand didn't love the DB work, but it's fine the next morning

Still letting the right lat/teres heal from the strain, so putting off pullups and hanging work, as well as cable row, face pulls 2-3 more days. No reason to train through a strain when I'll be good to go in a few days and need rest anyway. Can't WAIT till I can start pyramiding pullups.

Coming week is looking like reintroducing training on the left hand, 2 sessions of hanging and gymnastics work, 2-3 sessions with the CoC, deadlifts and RDLs, two Sheiko bench press sessions, one session of rows and face pulls, and pullups and one arm work later in the week. Goal is to weigh 180 for Saturday's climb. Weight loss briefly stalled the past 1.5 weeks.

5/15

1 hour light climb. Worked Vb, V0, V1 about equally for 12 total routes or so

5/16

rest

Initial strain was last Thursday. Need at least two more days before I try pullups again. They aren't very painful but I don't want to compromise whatever is healing. Still tight under both arms, especially the right

5/20

DB bench Sheiko day 3:

35x12 50x5 60x4
70x6

DB flies 25 3x10

Bouldering 3:00

Sent one new V2. Still can't send an old V2 project. There's a really scrunched up position that's really hard for me.

Starting Db bench at 50x5 feels weird but I guess that's the program. 35x12 was a little too much for a warmup. Maybe 30x10 next time

Had to put off the CoC for a week while my hands recover. Pretty tired from the previous Sat-Mon climbing sessions and 4 sessions of bench. Left pinky is mostly healed. Right hand has a cut from campusing on Thursday. Right lat is almost there as well. Pull-ups incoming. Back to some one arm and gymnastic work this week too. Front levers were very hard on my upper back last time but worth repeating.

5/19 rest

BW: 181.5

5/18

DB bench Sheiko day 2

50x5 55x4 60x4 65x4
70x2
75x4x2

Obstacle course training- 2 hours

2x2 2x3 pull-ups 1x5 L sit pullup
Rope climb 2 sets
Campusing 2 sets
Salmon ladder 2 sets
Weird pole transfer strength stuff 3 sets

Bench: 60-90 seconds between sets at 75. Shoulder felt good. Glad I didn't put off this workout after yesterday's issue. Shoulder feels fine the next few days, happily

Obstacle training involved a relatively easy warmup with some hard quadrupedal movement. I did a few obstacles and tried the course once and basically couldn't do it. I also had trouble running up the warped wall where I almost fell backwards on my 2nd attempt and kind of psychologically blocked myself from trying the rest of the session. I did manage to do the salmon ladder for several good reps. Pole was pretty hard and I could only make a few transfers between poles before my hip acted up (imagining my angry physical therapist). Rope climbing was much easier than expected and something I want to do again. A harder campusing problem swinging between globes wasn't doable.

5/17

CGBP

40(kg)x5
45x5
50x4
55x4
60x2x3
Quit

This exercise felt bad on my right shoulder without being painful. Maybe related to the lat/teres strain. Weight was very light. Regardless I quit to save my shoulder

Woke up at 2am with my right shoulder spasming (but not painfully)

5/16

Front lever attempts 2 sets
2 sets V to L sit

Coming Week:

Mon

DB Bench: 50x5 55x4 60x3 65 2x3 75 2x2 80 2x2 85 2x1 80 2x2 75 2x2 65 2x3 60x5 55x8 50x10

Bouldering med. intensity 2-3 hours

Tues rest

Weds rest

Thurs

DB Bench 50x5 60x5 65x4 70x4 75x2x3 80 3x2

Climb or Ninja gym

Fri rest

Sat

DB Bench 50x5 60x4 70 6x3

Bouldering 3-4 hours

Sun rest

-Pullups by Thursday. Will start with sets of 5-6 and build back to 10-12 over a few weeks. Can't wait to pyramid
-Front levers, V sit, L sit, dead hangs by Thursday. Lat needs to get better first. Will wait till I am 100% healed in my lat and left pinky for one arm work.
-Face pull and DB flies with DB Bench. Cable row when my lat is 100%
-Adding a little walking for cardio/NEPA this week to stay busy on off days. 2 weeks till summer semester to go
-Expect another 1.5-2 pounds of weight loss this week. Goal is to weigh 180 for next Saturday's climb.
-Unsure if I will be able to sustain Sheiko and the coming weight increases. 90x2x2 will be my heaviest bench since 2012

Adding Deadlifts back this week assuming lat/teres feels 100%. Will just work around 100-110kg.

Quitting bilateral squatting for an indefinite period of time

5/22

DB bench Sheiko day 4
50x5 55x4 60x3 65 2x3 75 2x2 80 2x2 85 2x1 75 2x2 70 2x2 65 2x3 60x5 55x8 50x10

Bouldering 3 hours

Sent V5! I have a video but it's not pretty.

This was huge and my goal for the year. I'm shocked that I was able to do this. My doubts are gone at this point.

Sent an old V2 I was struggling on as well. The hard move became randomly easy once I figured out to sit down.

Earlier in the day, db bench pyramid beat me. I was supposed to do 2x2 at 80 after 85 and went straight to 75 instead. Honestly I probably didn't rest long enough between 75, 80, 85 on the way up and most likely could have gotten in the 2nd 2x2 with the 80's given significantly longer breaks. I still think I made a programming error setting my max at 200. This is my first stint with higher volume in a really long time, plus I'm losing weight. Ideally I will do the 90's for 2x2 week 4 day a. Realistically if it has to be the 85's that will be progress. It seems like I made a pretty big error in my non existent programming a month or two ago when I lifted the 80's for 5-6 reps and didn't progress to lower reps higher weight. Umass gym has 85's and 95's so this won't happen again