Here is the promised trip report for
Caviar Russe, where I had lunch a couple Saturdays ago.
The restaurant is on the second floor of a former townhouse in midtown Manhattan, and you have to ring a buzzer to get in. Things started out on the wrong foot when we got upstairs and it took them a couple tries to find our reservation (made through their website on some non-Open Table system), despite us being the first patrons of the day.
The main dining room is opulently decorated (you can make out one of the frescoes in the mirror) with space for maybe 20 diners, and we had the place to ourselves for the first half hour.
We get another unpleasant surprise when the menu arrives with what seem to be dinner rather than lunch prices. I had been planning to order the 5-course tasting menu at $95, but now the 5-course menu was $145 and the 3-course menu was $95. We went with the 3-course menu and the one redeeming feature was the ability to pick any three courses rather than just an appetizer, main, and dessert. This allowed my wife and me to try almost all of the savory dishes.
There was another section of the menu devoted to caviar. I wish I had taken a picture of it since it's not available on their website. Prices range pretty wildly from something like $25 for a spoonful of "American caviar" to several thousand dollars for 250 grams of the highest grade Beluga caviar. A middle aged man seated next to us ordered a few grand worth a caviar.
I should also mention that their drink menu was pretty ridiculous, so I ordered the $8 tea service.
Anyway, onto our food.
Amuse bouche of Spanish mackerel and shaved truffles
This was one of my favorites: good flavor, nice mix of texture, and just the right portion.
Peters Point Oyster with Myer Lemon, Cucumber, Classic Ostra, Borage
A great starter. The caviar, cucumber and oysters worked well together. I was a little surprised that a pearl spoon wasn't included in the service, but it wasn't necessary since everything could be eaten from the shell.
Blue Fin Tuna salad
This was fine, but it was prettier than it tastes. Tuna seemed over-seasoned, and I think the cod dish would have been a better choice.
Foie Gras Terrine with Apples (toasted brioche not pictured)
The foie gras was excellent -- super smooth and rich. The only problem is it's hard to eat that much foie gras in one sitting (even when sharing) and they didn't provide enough brioche. Fortunately I had an extra roll from the bread service.
Egg with Sweetbreads, English Pea, Ricotta, and Prosciutto
Another favorite. This one had a lot going on, and it was very well balanced. The peas were a great touch.
Normandy Duck with Polenta, Watercress, Enoki, and Black Olive
I liked the preparation -- a tender hunk of breast and a cube of confit -- but it was just too salty.
Risotto with Lobster, Bone Marrow, Shiso, and Siberian Caviar
Another very rich dish. Can't complain, but by the point I started on this I was slipping into the early stages of a food coma. Again no pearl spoon, which would have been nice for taking a little taste of the caviar sans risotto.
The desserts looked intriguing, and I had been considering ordering one at some point, but I was too full by the end of the meal. In any event, our server brought us freshly baked honey madeleines as petit fours.
As far as ingredients go, the meal was probably the most decadent of my life. The only real off note was the too salty duck. The price point is definitely high. For comparison, Bouley, offers a 5-course prix fixe lunch menu for $55, even on Saturdays.