Hello;

At some point in my gambling career I would like to move into live games. I notice the casinos in my area run full-ring games. I am pretty well adjusted in the 6-max arena but my adventures in full ring have been less than optimal. What are some things I should keep in mind when playing full-ring that will not translate well from 6-max and what does translate well? Do I have to tone down my aggression and play a tighter game? Am I calling more often when lots of people limp into a pot?

Any comments and advice are welcome, here.

Thank you for your time and input.

Bray.

I don't really know the answer to this but I think the biggest change will really be the fact that you are moving to live games, which seem have a fairly different dynamic, rather than the 6max to full ring aspect.

I was worried my question was not well formed or defined.

I am trying stabs at 1/3 with short buy-ins but this is not really the thread for this discussion. I'll move it else where.

I agree that the change to live is probably more significant than changing from 6 to 9 handed.

However, in making that change.
You'll be playing more multiway pots which means that your pot geometry can do some weird things when you have three or more people feeding into a pot instead of just two. Bluffing is also harder since you need more folds. To me, this is the biggest difference between the games.

You need to be more patient and play fewer hands. A lot of this is because that you're going to have three more positions that are worse than a 6max UTG. However, you'll also be paying the blinds a lot less often. Your blind rate is 25 per 100 hands@6max, but only 17 @9max

Hand strengths are also stronger at 9 max.

Bluffing is harder at nit ring? Whaaaaat? Unless you mean trying to cbet into two villains instead of one of course but when you raise it seems like everyone puts you on sets at FR especially when you raise the turn. At 6 max there's much less fold equity in my experience. So to answer OP's question, for online poker bluff more and be careful what you stack off with cause from my experiences with zoom, everyone's a nit postflop. Live just play really tight in EP (< 10% range), over limp speculative hands like Axs/small PPs and don't bluff without equity except vs the weak tight guys.

First off 6-Max online is WAY more aggressive than live Full Ring. Light 3 betting is far less likely and 4 bets are almost all ways for value below 5/10. Limping behind with small pocket pairs and suited connectors is fine. Hands like AJ, KQ, even KJ can get 3 streets of value with top pair. I would still fold baby pairs and small suited connectors in early position. You can bluff certain villains but don't expect everybody to fold even when you know they're weak. Value bet thin and fold to aggression except from LAGS/Maniacs, you have to call them down light. Hope this helps and Good Luck!

Everyone puts you on sets because turn raises usually are sets.

Anyway, live vs. online is the big difference, FR vs 6max is basically:
- have tight RFI ranges in first 3 seats
- you will face more multiway pots
- more sets too (everybody setmines and numbers are not your friend if OOP)
- defending blinds aggressively is somewhat less important because you have 3 more seats to draw profit from + opening ranges are tighter so you will spew if you try to overplay hands OOP especially if it is multiway

Should I absolutely, always buy in for the full amount? I was thinking of trying small stabs for the minimum of $50.

That sounds worrying... could you elaborate, exactly how you're gonna approach bankroll management? If you haven't made a plan, make one! Otherwise you're very likely to hit Zero sooner or later.

As of now I am only bankrolled for the micros. I am switching from 6-max to full ring at the micro tables because the live card rooms are spreading full ring games. The goal is to grind up the micro bankroll to a point where I could try to take stabs at the low stakes live games. The premise, of course, is I have to be a winning player before that even happens. I was winning 6-max 4NL and was able to jump up to 10NL. But I switched to 10NL full ring and swung down like 5 buy-ins. I am taking this opportunity to do some studying before making another deposit and switching to full-ring games.

If and when I do deposit again I'll probably do something in the 10BI range and stick to tight-aggressive/Loose Aggressive play style depending on the situation. I will probably split my games between some sit-n-go's and FR games.

I hope I addressed your question about my plan. I think this should satisfy.

http://www.pokerolymp.com/articles/s...r#.VRxL_OF1HIM

^ Variance calculator.

If you start with 10BI, and your estimate you WR at 1BB/100 (let's not aim too high, you're only just starting FR,) you're actually a 6:4 favourite to go broke. ...playing to the best of your abilities, you might not even make one horrible decision. It's just the math of things.

Regardless, if you give a hoot about losing a hundred bucks, it's just bad BRM, and you're gonna hit 0 time and time again, if you move up too quickly.

40BI is standard, 100BI is pretty save.