Like other have said, I'd vote against a 1911 in .45 as your first pistol, even though they're awesome and an american classic. Given your price range, and everything you've been asking about an XD would be a good choice, as they're quality pistols. If you're looking for another option check out Smith and Wesson's M&P series. They run about $500, the regular models are small enough for CC, but not too small. I have one chambered in .40 and it shoots like a dream. The feel is perfect, and you even get different sized backstraps for whatever fits you best. I really can't endorse it enough. Plenty of police agencies around the country have made the decision to change their service pistol to the M&P because of its all-around quality. Hell, if you're left handed you can easily configure it that way without going to a gunsmith or any such stuff.

Wait on the 1911, you can't go wrong with XDs or Glocks, but for my money the M&P is the choice. Or you could get an AK for about $400 bucks. That thing's a sure bet to be banned if there's any sort of legislation enacted. You seem like you'd enjoy it

Also, do NOT buy crappy ass Wolf ammo. It's some of the cheapest, but its complete garbage.

Compact 9mm:





12 rounds per magazine

Sick.

Which do you favor MVP, the XD or the M&P?

Also, any opinion on the Para warthog line? I've been leaning towards their pistols, was thinking about the 9mm.

http://www.paraord.com/new/product_pistol.php?id=34

(or would you say avoid it because its a 1911 (it is right?)?)

I'd probably go with an M&P over the XD, but it comes down to preference. Ideally, you could fire both to get a feel for them. M&Ps, for being polymer pistols, are extremely well balanced and handle recoil from .40 and .45 rounds better than most of their plastic counterparts. That may be moot though if you're gonna go with 9mm, but I'm sure the recoil is virtually nothing.

I don't really know much about Para, but the reason I said avoid 1911s as your first pistol is because when I say "1911" I'm pretty much referring to those chambered in .45 ACP. It does look nice though. The price, however, is about $400 over what you'd be paying for an XD or M&P. With that extra scratch you could get an AK, or about 2000 rounds of 9mm ammo.

edit: it looks like the Para is usually around $750 instead of the $929 in your link.

edit edit: like I said, it ultimately comes down to what feels good, and what's comfortable for you to shoot. Just because I prefer the M&P doesn't necessarily mean you will, etc etc. There's really not that much difference between the M&P, the XD, and Glocks.

Yeah, I just noticed the price and was like 'wtf, I could have sworn I saw it for $700 while googling yesterday" - regardless, I'll be buying whatever I get used, I think.

Also re: ammo, buy some economy rounds for target shooting. I got some Blazer, which is pretty cheap, and have yet to have any issues with it, though I have it in .40, and don't know about their 9mm. After you get some target rounds, you should get some "kill rounds" for concealed carry,home defense, etc. The industry standard is currently Federal Hydra-Shoks, which run about $50 for 50 rounds (jesus christ, it was $32 when I got some and I thought that was expensive!). So buy target rounds in bulk, then a box or two of Hydra-Shoks would probably suffice.

I agree with what MFMVP is saying about leave the 1911's for later on. A basic Colt 1911 will almost surely need a gunsmith to smooth things out and get it running nicely, and the the expensive clones that run good out of the box are just so darn expensive. It's like you've got to experience everything else and then over 20 years you'll work your way to 1911's.

Also Taso, I agree with your reasoning about starting with 9mm. You've got a good plan about buying the cheaper 9mm ammo and shooting frequently to learn. And the milder recoil of the 9mm is better for learning to shoot.

This is why I started off with a 9 mm for my first pistol, along with the 9 mm's being noted as penetrating walls less. Killing someone who's got it coming is one thing, but I would be pretty devastated if I killed a neighbor by accident.

Have you actually held and shot that Para? You should shoot any gun before you buy it, but Paras in particular. They're fat, since they're double stack 1911s. Which changes one of the best features of the 1911, the grip. I'll never buy another Para.

wow, thanks for the warning jackblack. No, I haven't held it - I haven't held A) any pistol, ever, and B) any shotgun or rifle in probably 8 years.

I'm in NY right now, and from what I've been TOLD (by friends who prob don't know) you can't go to a gun store and ask to hold one without having a permit here (or, you can, but the store owner won't let you pretty much) Not sure how true this is. Anyways, so I'm trying to do all this research that way when I get back to Philly in a few weeks I'll have a general idea of what to ask for/look for when I go gun shopping.


What is everyone's opinion regarding single action vs double action for a first time gun user?

Para's are available in single stack as well. They are top quality 1911's. They also have a double action version called the LDA which has the best double action trigger pull on the market, period.

The only criticism I have of the Smith M&P is the trigger. Some have too much travel and are gritty. However, this can be easily fixed with a trigger job done by a gunsmith or even yourself. Some people like to replace the factory sights too. Fix those two things and you have the best autopistol out there now. I'm keen on buying the .357 Sig model or .45ACP with safety catch.

It is easier to shoot a single action versus a double action, but a trained person can shoot both equally well. There have been some unintentional discharges with light single action triggers under stress by police. The heavier weight of the double action can help prevent this, but good training is the best prevention.

I've read about the LDA's, and I've heard a lot of complaints about them - I think the general thing is that the factory has poor quality control. I don't know how true that is.

What is means 'too much travel' when referring to a trigger?

Can anyone plz to be explaining what is means '5-6lbs trigger', that's basically the amount of force needed to pull the trigger right? The heavier it is, the safer it is, but harder to pull?

The distance you have to pull the trigger before it fires

Amount of force needed to pull the trigger/fire the gun. I do not think the heavier the safer is necessarily true. I will say that if a trigger is too heavy it is usually harder to shoot accurately.

yea the more I think about it the more I wanna get my trigger worked on. Too much travel is right.

Thanks for the response fish - the travel one probably should have been self-explaining :P

Do you guys know anything about changing your residency/state citizenship? I plan on becoming a PA resident (New Yorker now) because the NY gun laws are oppressive and tyrannical imo, and its difficult to get a CCW permit here (sad that I have to, in a free society, but okay).

edit: Another question: Can I, as a New Yorker, buy a handgun in PA? If I was a PA resident could I bring my handgun into NY?

Actually, I have a ton of questions about this, perhaps I should just go to a gun store in PA and get all the info from them (unless some of you are from PA and know the PA gun laws)