It's #1 in terms of user rating, but not the best there is. You can sort by clicking on the column headers, and you can add columns like 4k and DQ. You'll find there is no 'perfect' SSD.

User rating is misleading fwiw. The M550 for instance is newer and not as wide spread as the EVO (3300 vs 20k votes), and therefore lower rated:

http://ssd.userbenchmark.com/Compare...6GB/1594vs2000

Which category is best to filter by to see best performance with running a database type thing such as HM2

From my understanding, high 4k read and DQ read values make for fast filtering processes and HUD updates, which is most crucial for everyday HM use, and high 4k/DQ write speeds make for fast HH importing (almost neglectable unless you frequently import whole DB's as even a HDD can import >10 HH/s afaik, which is more than fast enough even for masstabling). I don't know enough about how databases operate to be absolutely certain though, you best ask this in the HM support thread or get Fozzy to shed some light ITT.

leaning towards this one
http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-Electr...ywords=840+evo

But no clue if I need to get something to mount it which isn't included

http://apevia.com/productsInfo.asp?KEY=X-DMR4-NW-BK

This is the case you want to buy?

I decided to just upgrade my hard drive to ssd

From what I'm seeing you can just connect the ssd inside the comp it doesn't' require to be mounted.

Even if you need something to mount it that's just like $5-10 more. It's just some metal and some screws. Here are my two SSDs mounted in one 3.5" slot:

Ordering a new computer since current won't start. Since I already have a ssd do I just order a hard drive as the second hard drive? Or do I put the toshiba 2 tb drive as the primary for now and change it to the ssd when it comes?

Intel Core i5-4690 Haswell 3.5GHz (3.9GHz turbo) Quad-Core 6000K
Coolermaster Hyper101, Vertical, 2 Copper Heat Pipes, Extra Quiet CPU fan
MSI H81M-E33, Onboard Video, HD Audio, GB LAN, USB3.0, HDMI
8GB (2x4GB) PC10600 DDR3 1333 Dual Channel
HD Onboard 3D graphics Dual head, HDMI (only if listed with board)
2TB Toshiba 7200RPM SATA3 6GB/s 64m cache
LG 22x DVD Recorder Dual Layer +R/RW -R/RW
Realtek HD digital audio (onboard)
Ethernet network adapter (onboard)
Apevia X-Dreamer-4 Silver and Blue, front USB 2.0 & 3.0, Temp. display, Hot swap HDD
Thermaltake TR2 700W ultra quiet ATX Power Supply, SLI & X-fire ready
Black Windows Keyboard, 104 key
2-Button Wheel Mouse, PS/2 Black
Black Multimedia amplified stereo speakers
Microsoft Windows 7 Ultimate 64bit DVD w/SP1

Why do you even need a new case, DVD, HDD, PSU, and mouse/keyboard? What are you gonna do with your old parts? I would just replace board, CPU, and RAM. That said, here are my two cents:

• There are some downsides to the H81M board:
  • only 2 RAM slots; you'd have to replace the RAM kit if you ever want to upgrade
  • Haswell Refresh CPU's not supported out of the box (BIOS upgrade required)
  • the PCIe x16 slot is only v2.0
  
  -> I'd recommend a board with B85 chipset, eg. ASRock B85M Pro4 or B85 Anniversary

• I'd certainly recommend 1600MHz CL9 RAM over 1333MHz, eg. G.Skill Ares.

• The PSU is wayyy overkill as your system will peak (!) around 150W without a graphics card. 700W is for multi-GPU setups (Crossfire/SLI). This particular PSU also got a lot of bad reviews. You might want to look into Corsair's CX series instead - they're semi-modular, seem very reliable and quiet as they're getting great reviews, and are still very cheap. Considering a mainboard with only one x16 slot, 430-500W is more than well prepared for a decent GPU.

• Lastly, a mouse with only 2 buttons would tilt me nuts.

You can install your OS on the HDD and clone it to the SSD later using a cloning tool. There's no such thing as master and slave drives with SATA any more; the primary drive (C:\) is always the one you boot from. You can assign drive letters to the other drives as you please (within the OS). As soon as you boot from the SSD you can delete the OS installed on the HDD.

Thanks for the feedback, I'll make some alterations to the system and repost that shortly. I'm not concerned about the mouse as I use the Mx revolution mouse, the one listed was just to throw in.

Intel Core i5-4690 Haswell 3.5GHz (3.9GHz turbo) Quad-Core 6000K
Coolermaster Hyper101, Vertical, 2 Copper Heat Pipes, Extra Quiet CPU fan
ASRock B85M Pro4 , Onboard Video, X-Fire, HD Audio, GB LAN, USB3.0, HDMI & DVI
16GB (2x8GB) PC12800 DDR3 1600 Dual Channel
HD Onboard 3D graphics Dual head, HDMI (only if listed with board)
2TB Toshiba 7200RPM SATA3 6GB/s 64m cache
LG 22x DVD Recorder Dual Layer +R/RW -R/RW
Realtek HD digital audio (onboard)
Ethernet network adapter (onboard)
Apevia X-Dreamer-4 Silver and Blue, front USB 2.0 & 3.0, Temp. display, Hot swap HDD
Apevia 500W Extra Quiet Power Supply w/ 6pin PCI-E
Black Windows Keyboard, 104 key
2-Button Wheel Mouse, PS/2 Black
Black Multimedia amplified stereo speakers
Microsoft Windows 7 Ultimate 64bit DVD w/SP1

They didn't have any other Corsair's other then that one listed

You could go for 2*4GB RAM for now and add 2 more sticks should you ever need more (which I doubt).

I wouldn't recommend this PSU either. Make sure to get an 80+ certified one with active PFC.

Again, why don't you keep your old parts, especially the PSU if you can't find a better one?

Because I'm not sure what parts are damaged/still good based upon the current issues I am having with my machine. And the more days I waste without buying one will cost me more money from missed poker then what I spend on a new one. I just want a new machine asap.

Also not sure what this means or which would fit this criteria.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Power_s...er)#Efficiency
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/80_Plus

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Power_factor#Active_PFC

Link me to a shop and I'll try to find a good PSU for you.

http://magicmicro.com/smoreinfo.asp?iid=8751

i'm customizing this system

Holy crap, this shop sucks. Way overpriced, limited choice wrt RAM, PSU and CPU cooling... you'd be best advised to look somewhere else for individual components and assemble them yourself. Anyway, if I was forced to order from this shop I'd go for the 430W or 450W version of the TR2. Anything else seems either outdated, rubbish, or way overkill.

Ok appreciate the input, everyone values their time differently, for me it is well worth the time to just get it done for me.

Awesome, got my new PC today and it's damaged. Hard drive was supposed to be installed and was loose a sata cable and power cable were chipped. There isn't enough power supplies that reach to hook up my 2 other hard drives.

.

Most of their Reseller ratings look fake as hell and one-time reviewers are piling on the quick praise. Meanwhile their Facebook is a ghost town and they've amassed 6 followers to their Twitter page in 5 years. And you definitely overpaid.

I'd feel bad but after 65+ posts trying to help and Bao giving you a heads up...if I had seen it I may as well have pointed you to a Dell or something. That computer is all wrong.

My advice would be to take a bunch of pictures and contact them about a return for refund ASAP, if their policy allows for it. In fact maybe post some photos here I'd like to see their handywork

they sent me the replacement parts now I now pretty much how to install everything. It's fine now. Just have to figure out a monitor resolution issue