I'm just kidding. Ask away. I like reading everyone's questions regardless of O8 variation.

http://forumserver.twoplustwo.com/44...-group-956721/

Please note this thread is for newcomer's questions. Chat belongs in the monthly miscellaneous thread.

Thanks.

Buzz

Hi:
Thanks first for this thread im learn a lot reading this . One question im soo newbie in this of the omaha 8. ¿is necessary use the omaha manager? , if yes , ¿what stats i should use? and ¿ how i can interpret this (for example what is a vpip , pfr and agf for a fishy, good player,ect).

Thanks and sorry for the fishy Question

PD: sorry for the bad english

Welcome to the forum.

If you play on-line, I think you may find it useful.

No problem.

You may find some useful information in the following thread:
http://forumserver.twoplustwo.com/38...color-1114514/

I don't use Omaha Manager myself because I don't play on-line much. Anyone who has experience using Omaha Manager is welcome to chime in here with your advice. Thanks.

Buzz

So I have been playing some Fixed O8 (0.02/0.04) @ Stars and wondering should I be aggressive going up limits because lack of games. But I fear that I hardly got any experience 6 max (2 lowest limit is 10 max). So what kind of bankroll management you guys recommend based on these stats?

Deposited $12 for 300BB but I think its too much at least for 10 max tables (my opinion) but it seems there is only 6 max tables going on usually.

Your question is overwhelming for me. I hope someone else will give you a better response than mine, which is below.

The idea of having a bankroll is to keep you from going broke if you are dependent on poker as your primary income source.

Thus if poker is a hobby, if you’re a “recreational player,” and/or if your primary source of income is something other than poker, you don’t need a bankroll (in my opinion).

However, if you are playing several times a month and considering possibly turning pro, you might want to have enough in reserve to see you through a disastrous month. If you’re able to restrict yourself to one buy-in per game, then having enough in your bankroll to cover a month of losses with no wins is probably sufficient.

The standard bankroll rule is have less than 5% of your roll in play on one table at a time.

I'm a recreational player. Omaha-8 poker is my hobby. And I have excellent self discipline. When I go out to play poker, I don't take more money with me than I don't mind losing. And if I lose that, I stop playing, drive home, and regroup, carefully assessing my game and where I might have gone wrong. (I hate to lose, but if I do lose, the loss is not going to affect my lifestyle).

Google "bankroll for poker" and you'll get bankroll information you may find more useful.

Good luck.

Buzz

In these days of smartphones and various electronic devices you should be able to record hand info on there without it looking too out of place.

You obviously don't need to record every hand so I would think it will look to most people like you're just texting someone.

Having said that, even if people do notice they may:

a) Not be bothered

b) Not be able to exploit that info

c) Be mollified if you say in a self-deprecating manner that you're just learning the game or something similar.

Looking at the poster's graph above and was noticing his red line and thought to ask you guys if that's pretty normal? That is, to win a hand without showing down? I mean I guess it kind of makes sense seeing that it's probably hard to get people to fold in a limit game but was just curious.

Someone else can probably comment more intelligently than I can, but it looks to me like Hero is losing money on hands where there isn't any showdown... and the only way Hero can lose if there's no showdown is if Hero folds. Otherwise, if there's no showdown and the all Hero's opponents fold before the showdown and before Hero, then Hero wins.

Of course Hero loses when he folds. (But he may lose less than if he had continued with trash). So the red line seems to show that Hero is folding hands that would probably end up losing more if Hero continued with them. We don't know for sure... it's possible Hero is folding some winners... but my guess is Hero is probably folding hands that would mostly cost more if he didn't fold.

I'd be happy to have someone who knows more about this graph than I do respond and correct me.

Buzz

Just started getting into o8, I see lots of people mentioning how they devote quite a bit of time to self study and improvement outside of actual play - I'm already starting to watch videos and read what I can...but in regards to your own gameplay and results what are some recommended ways to self study and improve your game?

Welcome to the forum. O8 is my favorite poker game.

Study takes self discipline. It may be difficult for you to muster up the necessary self discipline to focus completely on what you're studying. Being genuinely interested in learning about what you're studying helps a lot in keeping your mind from wandering. Find a way to convince yourself that you need to know what you're learning.

I believe one gradually builds up a tolerance for study. And I believe once you develop the self discipline necessary to spend hours per day studying one topic, you will have gone a long way to establishing the self discipline to study another.

Getting a good coach, if you can afford one, may help to focus your study on what will be useful. I don't coach and I don't recommend coaches but there are a number of Omaha-8 coaches who post on the forum. Keep your eye peeled as you read the posts and you'll find someone who knows the game.

Play some hands against real opponents to get a real feel for Omaha-8. Then try sitting down by yourself and dealing out some hands. If you're playing six-handed, then deal out six hands. If you're playing in an eight handed game, then deal out eight hands. Etc.

Let's suppose you deal out eight hands. You'll use 32 cards and have 20 cards left over. Off to one side, split the 20 remaining cards face down into four different 5-card groupings to be used as boards. (Don't worry about "burning" cards for this exercise).

If you can't think of how you'd play each hand, turn over the first five-card board and determine which of the eight hands would make the best high hand and which would make the best low hand (if low is possible). Place a blue chip on top of the four card hand that would make the best high with the first five card board. Place another colored chip on top of the four card hand that would make the best low with the first five card board.

Then turn over the second five-card board and determine which of the eight hands would make the best high hand and which would make the best low hand (if low is possible). Place a blue chip on top of the four card hand that would make the best high with the second five card board. Place another colored chip on top of the four card hand that would make the best low with the second five card board.

Then turn over the third five-card board and determine which of the eight hands would make the best high hand and which would make the best low hand (if low is possible). Use a blue chip for high and another color for low.

Finally turn over the fourth five-card board and determine which of the eight hands would make the best high hand and which would make the best low hand (if low is possible). Use a blue chip for high and another color for low.

Reflect a minute or two on what won and what lost. Then shuffle, re-deal and repeat the process. You'll gradually learn what wins and what loses.

You can benefit from months of doing that exercise.

Another exercise is to deal out the same number of hands as players in your game, input each hand into a computer simulator, simulate, and compare.

Good luck.

Buzz

Wow those actually sound like really interesting exercises that I probably would have never thought of, thanks alot buzz

When you use the term "study" what exactly are you referring to? (im not really sure what to be studying to improve my game)

You're welcome. I assume you're aware that there have been numerous books written about Omaha-8, and there's an ongoing patter in this forum about Omaha-8.

If a game is not readily available to you, or if a game seems too risky with what you know now, reading a good book is probably a good place for you to start. We have a book containment thread. Here's a link for you:
http://forumserver.twoplustwo.com/44...04/index2.html

I somehow thought you wanted to learn about the game aside from playing or reading.

"Study," to me, means devoting time and attention to acquiring knowledge about a topic. (Now I vaguely wonder what the term "study" means to you).

I think you mentioned "self study" and I took that to mean studying outside of a formal environment (like a college or being directed by a coach).

I made a sort of breakthrough for myself over ten years ago when I discovered the most important factor in determining which of eight hands had the best chance of ending up the winner, aside from possible intimidation, was how well the hand fit with the flop compared to how well the other seven hands fit with the flop.

There's quite a lot more to being a successful player than just that, but that might point you in the right direction to getting started.

Your question was "in regards to your own gameplay and results what are some recommended ways to self study and improve your game?"

And I gave you my opinion.

Anyone else is welcome to write his/her opinion about "in regards to your own gameplay and results what are some recommended ways to self study and improve your game?"

Buzz

Hm I think I just misinterpreted your previous meaning, that cleared things up thanks!

some book or articles that recommend for a total newbie in omaha/8??

We have a book containment thread. Here's a link for you:
http://forumserver.twoplustwo.com/44...04/index2.html

Buzz

Hi i am new to the forum and o8 i am going to play pl and nl i quickly found what seems to be the plo8 bible Plo8 revealed but i cant find anything on nl o8 could somebody point me in the right direction? also how are the games are they still quite good even with the mid/low traffic i am not expecting to make a living out of playing o8 since i play live poker for my income but i still dont want to feel like i am wasting my time.
And sorry for the engrish

Hi Derp,

Welcome to the forum. I think your best resource for NLO8 is going to be this forum. I don't think there's been anything much written about the game elsewhere, but perhaps someone who plays NLO8 will correct me if I'm wrong.

Good luck.

What is a wheel wrap hand?

Playing Omaha-8, 5432A is a wheel, and the ranks that make up a wheel are called wheel cards.

Thus fives, fours, treys, deuces, and Aces are wheel cards in Omaha-8.

When the board has two ranks of wheel cards, a hand with the other three ranks of wheel cards is a wheel wrap.
-----
A wheel is always the nut low.
However, "nut low" does not always mean "wheel."
In other words, the nut low isn't necessarily a wheel.

For example, if you hold K,5,4,3 and the board is 7,2,A after the flop, 8,7,2,A after the turn, or 9,8,7,2,A on the river, then, in each case, you use the 4 and the 3 from your hand to make the nut low, 7432A, but it's not a wheel.

5432A would be a wheel.

Buzz

Ok, thanks

can i gett rake back with sportsbook?(poker) how does it work?

I don't know the answer.

Try the 2+2 Internet Poker forum. Here's a link:
http://forumserver.twoplustwo.com/49/internet-bonuses/

Buzz

I need a break from Hold-em, stumbled into Omaha 8.

Need some direction...any sites for practice hands or free play?

Kind of confused on counterfeited hands, sure I am not alone on that one.



Any help is appreciated.

I think so. Google "Omaha-8 poker free play" and I think you'll find more than one on-line site where you can play free.

You're counterfeited for low when one of the two cards from your hand that you want to use for low appears on the common board.

For example, suppose you hold A2QJ and the flop is 367. You have flopped the nut low (but without a very good chance to win high). The nut low is the best possible low. Your low is 7632A.

Now suppose the turn is the T. At this point you still have the nut low.

Now suppose the turn is the 2. You have been counterfeited for low. You still qualify for low with a "live ace," but you no longer have the nut low.
Your low is still 7632A, but now there are three possible six high lows.

With 3,6,7,T,2 on the common board, now the nut low is A4** (for 6432A), the second nut low is A5** (for 6532A), and the third nut low is 54** (for 65432). Flushes or straights don't matter when playing for low.

If you still don't understand, feel free to ask another question. Someone will answer it for you.

Welcome to the forum.

Buzz