I was wondering if the following concepts from a 2007 post from Sauce123 is still applicable.

Sauce's Guide to Beating NLH 6max

This is really a nod to the beautiful simplicity that was IlikeAces guide.

The purpose of this guide is to make decisions as simple as possible for us and as hard as possible for our opponents while retaining large amounts of implied odds and fold equity.

General Theorem: Project a nitty image but 3bet like a monkey because this stat doesnt come up on poker tracker/ HUD and our opponents are multitabling robots.

Preflop Play:

1. Open AK, AQs, 22-AA UTG.
Add AQ0, AJs, KQs, ATs UTG+1
Add AJo, KQo, QJs, JTs, KTs, KJs, T9s, 98s, 87s, QTs, in CO (you can add a few more from button range here as things progress)
Add AT0, 76s, 65s, 54s, T8s, J9s, A9s-A2s, 97s, 86s, 75s, QJ0, JT0 from Btn

2. 3bet ANY HAND in your opponent's (positionally adjusted) opening range from any position. This does not mean you have to 3bet every hand in his range every time you get it, but it is your default play. As a defauly 3bet with the top 1/2 of hands they open with. 3bet with a hand in the top 2/3 of their positionally adjusted opening range if they are a calling station or large donkey of some other sort. (MOST IMPORTANT PART OF GUIDE)

3. Isolate/raise limpers with any hand you would open with from the button.

4. Fold to a 4bet shove unless you have QQ+ AK if people aren't bat**** insane.

5. If you are 3bet- In position call with TT+ AK and 4bet with QQ+ AK OOP.

6. Call a raise in any position if the following conditions are present:
a) you are holding an SC or a PP
b) There are two or more people already in the pot
c) your hand is not strong enough to 3bet (not in the top 1/2 if their opening range from that position)


Postflop:

In a Raised Pot:

1. Cbet any flop containing 1-2 paint cards, any flop containing 3 cards 7 or lower, any flop containing disconnected cards and any flop which hit you. Do not cbet if you have not hit a flop with 4 or more ppl in the pot.

2. When OOP do you not put any more money in the pot past ur cbet if you do not have Top pair or an 8+ out draw. Bluff all scare cards on turn or river if given an opportunity.

3. you may slowplay sets on rainbow unconnected boards but thats it.

In a Reraised pot:

1. Continuation bet for 2/3 pot any flop containing one or more A K Q, any flop which has given you top pair or an 8+ out draw or better.

2. Double barrel shove any flop/turn containing a K, Q, J, or T against opponents who are in position and have shown down a hand 22-99, T9s-54s in your recent memory in a 3bet pot.

3. If you have bet a weak overpair (99 on a 872 flop) fold to a flop raise and call only any bet that is less than or equal to 1/2 pot on later streets against most players.

4. With your strongest hands and draws shove turn.

5. Do not slowplay ever.

6. Always bet if an A or K falls on the turn or river and you have already bet the flop unless there are two cards connecting to it.

I will edit/add to this later but anyone of average intelligence should be able to make 30,000 or more per year playing sporadically using this strategy. Remember, almost everything said here is meant to exploit TAG and LAG regs who make up the majority of players at 100nl+, which differentiates it from the ILIKEACES guide.

No. Forget it asap imo.

edit. I didn't even read the whole post. There might some good points but in general you shouldn't just follow this kind of guidelines.

Which ones do you disagree with?

Poker is a game of complex strategies and counter strategies. In order to know what the correct strategy is for a given situation, you have to figure out the why behind it first. Guides only tell you what works under that current meta but doesn't help with the why. Figuring out the why behind everything you do will help your poker game much more than any guide ever will.

Reading this makes me wish I took poker seriously back in 2007 rather than 2011. What was I thinking

It's all about ball bearings* these days.

*blockers

I had no idea Sauce wrote a guide 10 years ago. I haven't read past here yet. But right here: I'm sure everyone with a HUD has this stat on it and has for years.



EDIT:

I read the rest of it- it is definitely really out of date.

sauce would agree it's out of date.

outdated, poker is about ranges, not simple rules.

and people say that poker training sites killed poker. Things like improving the HUD beyond only having VPIP/PFR/AF/Hands was a much bigger killer than coaches, CR, DC, BFP, RIO, and the many other coaching sites I didn't list.

edit: didn't see who I was replying to before I submitted. Hi Lego! Somehow I'm sure you know the above since we used to send raw HH sessions to each other way back in the day and critique each others play that way. ****ing dinosaurs.

Not sure I agree with his Open range, didn't get much further than that...

I'd much rather play AJs or AQo than 22 through 66 UTG...

Also his theory on when to cbet is totally donkish imo...players are much smarter now and understand board texture and cbet range/frequency than they did 10years ago.

The tiny bit I read of this 'strategy' makes me think it's now obsolete.