NL donk about to play 1st PLO session (home game). Any advice?
10-27-2008
, 06:05 PM
10-27-2008
, 09:47 PM
10-28-2008
, 03:43 AM
Starting hands
-are coordinated. Examples:
-"rundowns": 6789
-"gappers": 689T
-big double suited hands (ds): AdKsJdTs
-big pairs, double pairs: 88TT, good for flopping sets, and for use as "blocker" bluffs
-strong Aces AAJT, AAXXds
-weak Aces: AA73 (get ready to dump)
The best hands give you a made hand with a redraw on the flop: Example QQJTds can give you top set plus a straight draw or flush draw.
Don't overvalue:
-2 pair
-Aces/overpairs
-trips: you can lose by kicker or by a full house
-Non-nut flushes, non-nut straights
-bottom set
-underfulls, non-nut full houses
-straights with no redraws, especially when out of position
-non-nut outs
Beware of:
-"duplicate" straights-- when you and someone else both have the nut straight. Imagine you flop the nut straight where there is a 2-flush (that you don't have) on the board-- It's possible for someone else to have the straight AND have a draw to the flush. If he raises you, he could be "freerolling", meaning he has the straight also, but is drawing to a better hand. This is a situation where you'd muck the nuts if you were deep.
-paired boards
-playing marginal hands out of position-- despite all the talk of "the nuts" there is a lot of turn and river bluffing, especially when the pot is heads up. It's easy for the person with position (last to act) to pull off a bluff.
Avoid:
-Slowplaying: It's way too easy for someone to draw out on you. Giving free cards is way more dangerous than in NLHE.
-Value betting small amounts on the flop/turn: for similar reasons as you avoid slowplaying. Usually 2/3rds to full pot is a good flop/turn bet.
-Raising preflop from early position-- If you barely catch the flop (which is most the time) this tends to create the nightmare scenario of being out of position, short-handed/heads-up, in a raised pot with marginal holdings.
Pay attention to:
-your outs. Holdem straight draws end at 8 outs. In Omaha, a standard "wrap" straight draw is 13 outs, and that's not including any flush outs.
-the betting/checking/raising dynamic from street to street-- People tend to leak more information in PLO than in Hold'em because slowplaying a made hands is more dangerous and because scare cards are really scary. There's a little more "honesty" in players' actions, which means a late position player gains a lot of information from the early-position players, which means he can act a little more "dishonestly."
-the street at which a draw is made possible: I'd be much more comfortable playing a mid-strength flush if it was made on the river while heads up than if it came on the flop while five-handed. Same with non-nut straights.
-the number of players in the hand at that particular street-- the game is much more sensitive to the number of players, since each player brings more cards combinations than in hold'em. The non-nuts often wins in Heads-up pots, while multiway action has much nuttier showdown hands.
-the power of position (as mentioned above) -- the scent of weakness wafts clockwise to the button. Watch how it is used. Also watch how much more value is extracted from later position, as the button's value bets are confused with bluffs, and as weaker hands lead out into the button, who can slowplay or raise.
-stack size: short-stack play (<40 bb) vastly increases the power of Aces, two pair and sets. Deeper stacks make drawing hands more valuable, makes position more important, and allows huge bluffs to be made.
-your tilt meter: PLO gives you a lot of excuses to put your chips in the middle. Even mild tilt can push you towards making drastic mistakes
Don't be scared to:
- put all your money in on a draw: 13+ nut outs justifies an all-in raise.
- semibluff: Bet your big draws because there is more equity to those hands than in hold'em, and because you need to disguise your drawing hands. And because you can win the pot outright.
- Bluff: use position to smell weakness and attack when a scare card hits. People will be doing it to you.
Be able to:
-make big laydowns when the actions suggest you're beat. This means dumping what was the nuts on the flop, when turn action suggests your hand got over run.
-make big calls with the non-nuts when there's a decent chance you're being bullied.
Hopefully, after reading this you can have fun while saving yourself a few buy-ins, or even come out ahead
-are coordinated. Examples:
-"rundowns": 6789
-"gappers": 689T
-big double suited hands (ds): AdKsJdTs
-big pairs, double pairs: 88TT, good for flopping sets, and for use as "blocker" bluffs
-strong Aces AAJT, AAXXds
-weak Aces: AA73 (get ready to dump)
The best hands give you a made hand with a redraw on the flop: Example QQJTds can give you top set plus a straight draw or flush draw.
Don't overvalue:
-2 pair
-Aces/overpairs
-trips: you can lose by kicker or by a full house
-Non-nut flushes, non-nut straights
-bottom set
-underfulls, non-nut full houses
-straights with no redraws, especially when out of position
-non-nut outs
Beware of:
-"duplicate" straights-- when you and someone else both have the nut straight. Imagine you flop the nut straight where there is a 2-flush (that you don't have) on the board-- It's possible for someone else to have the straight AND have a draw to the flush. If he raises you, he could be "freerolling", meaning he has the straight also, but is drawing to a better hand. This is a situation where you'd muck the nuts if you were deep.
-paired boards
-playing marginal hands out of position-- despite all the talk of "the nuts" there is a lot of turn and river bluffing, especially when the pot is heads up. It's easy for the person with position (last to act) to pull off a bluff.
Avoid:
-Slowplaying: It's way too easy for someone to draw out on you. Giving free cards is way more dangerous than in NLHE.
-Value betting small amounts on the flop/turn: for similar reasons as you avoid slowplaying. Usually 2/3rds to full pot is a good flop/turn bet.
-Raising preflop from early position-- If you barely catch the flop (which is most the time) this tends to create the nightmare scenario of being out of position, short-handed/heads-up, in a raised pot with marginal holdings.
Pay attention to:
-your outs. Holdem straight draws end at 8 outs. In Omaha, a standard "wrap" straight draw is 13 outs, and that's not including any flush outs.
-the betting/checking/raising dynamic from street to street-- People tend to leak more information in PLO than in Hold'em because slowplaying a made hands is more dangerous and because scare cards are really scary. There's a little more "honesty" in players' actions, which means a late position player gains a lot of information from the early-position players, which means he can act a little more "dishonestly."
-the street at which a draw is made possible: I'd be much more comfortable playing a mid-strength flush if it was made on the river while heads up than if it came on the flop while five-handed. Same with non-nut straights.
-the number of players in the hand at that particular street-- the game is much more sensitive to the number of players, since each player brings more cards combinations than in hold'em. The non-nuts often wins in Heads-up pots, while multiway action has much nuttier showdown hands.
-the power of position (as mentioned above) -- the scent of weakness wafts clockwise to the button. Watch how it is used. Also watch how much more value is extracted from later position, as the button's value bets are confused with bluffs, and as weaker hands lead out into the button, who can slowplay or raise.
-stack size: short-stack play (<40 bb) vastly increases the power of Aces, two pair and sets. Deeper stacks make drawing hands more valuable, makes position more important, and allows huge bluffs to be made.
-your tilt meter: PLO gives you a lot of excuses to put your chips in the middle. Even mild tilt can push you towards making drastic mistakes
Don't be scared to:
- put all your money in on a draw: 13+ nut outs justifies an all-in raise.
- semibluff: Bet your big draws because there is more equity to those hands than in hold'em, and because you need to disguise your drawing hands. And because you can win the pot outright.
- Bluff: use position to smell weakness and attack when a scare card hits. People will be doing it to you.
Be able to:
-make big laydowns when the actions suggest you're beat. This means dumping what was the nuts on the flop, when turn action suggests your hand got over run.
-make big calls with the non-nuts when there's a decent chance you're being bullied.
Hopefully, after reading this you can have fun while saving yourself a few buy-ins, or even come out ahead
10-28-2008
, 12:39 PM
Quote:
Starting hands
-are coordinated. Examples:
-"rundowns": 6789
-"gappers": 689T
-big double suited hands (ds): AdKsJdTs
-big pairs, double pairs: 88TT, good for flopping sets, and for use as "blocker" bluffs
-strong Aces AAJT, AAXXds
-weak Aces: AA73 (get ready to dump)
The best hands give you a made hand with a redraw on the flop: Example QQJTds can give you top set plus a straight draw or flush draw.
Don't overvalue:
-2 pair
-Aces/overpairs
-trips: you can lose by kicker or by a full house
-Non-nut flushes, non-nut straights
-bottom set
-underfulls, non-nut full houses
-straights with no redraws, especially when out of position
-non-nut outs
Beware of:
-"duplicate" straights-- when you and someone else both have the nut straight. Imagine you flop the nut straight where there is a 2-flush (that you don't have) on the board-- It's possible for someone else to have the straight AND have a draw to the flush. If he raises you, he could be "freerolling", meaning he has the straight also, but is drawing to a better hand. This is a situation where you'd muck the nuts if you were deep.
-paired boards
-playing marginal hands out of position-- despite all the talk of "the nuts" there is a lot of turn and river bluffing, especially when the pot is heads up. It's easy for the person with position (last to act) to pull off a bluff.
Avoid:
-Slowplaying: It's way too easy for someone to draw out on you. Giving free cards is way more dangerous than in NLHE.
-Value betting small amounts on the flop/turn: for similar reasons as you avoid slowplaying. Usually 2/3rds to full pot is a good flop/turn bet.
-Raising preflop from early position-- If you barely catch the flop (which is most the time) this tends to create the nightmare scenario of being out of position, short-handed/heads-up, in a raised pot with marginal holdings.
Pay attention to:
-your outs. Holdem straight draws end at 8 outs. In Omaha, a standard "wrap" straight draw is 13 outs, and that's not including any flush outs.
-the betting/checking/raising dynamic from street to street-- People tend to leak more information in PLO than in Hold'em because slowplaying a made hands is more dangerous and because scare cards are really scary. There's a little more "honesty" in players' actions, which means a late position player gains a lot of information from the early-position players, which means he can act a little more "dishonestly."
-the street at which a draw is made possible: I'd be much more comfortable playing a mid-strength flush if it was made on the river while heads up than if it came on the flop while five-handed. Same with non-nut straights.
-the number of players in the hand at that particular street-- the game is much more sensitive to the number of players, since each player brings more cards combinations than in hold'em. The non-nuts often wins in Heads-up pots, while multiway action has much nuttier showdown hands.
-the power of position (as mentioned above) -- the scent of weakness wafts clockwise to the button. Watch how it is used. Also watch how much more value is extracted from later position, as the button's value bets are confused with bluffs, and as weaker hands lead out into the button, who can slowplay or raise.
-stack size: short-stack play (<40 bb) vastly increases the power of Aces, two pair and sets. Deeper stacks make drawing hands more valuable, makes position more important, and allows huge bluffs to be made.
-your tilt meter: PLO gives you a lot of excuses to put your chips in the middle. Even mild tilt can push you towards making drastic mistakes
Don't be scared to:
- put all your money in on a draw: 13+ nut outs justifies an all-in raise.
- semibluff: Bet your big draws because there is more equity to those hands than in hold'em, and because you need to disguise your drawing hands. And because you can win the pot outright.
- Bluff: use position to smell weakness and attack when a scare card hits. People will be doing it to you.
Be able to:
-make big laydowns when the actions suggest you're beat. This means dumping what was the nuts on the flop, when turn action suggests your hand got over run.
-make big calls with the non-nuts when there's a decent chance you're being bullied.
Hopefully, after reading this you can have fun while saving yourself a few buy-ins, or even come out ahead
-are coordinated. Examples:
-"rundowns": 6789
-"gappers": 689T
-big double suited hands (ds): AdKsJdTs
-big pairs, double pairs: 88TT, good for flopping sets, and for use as "blocker" bluffs
-strong Aces AAJT, AAXXds
-weak Aces: AA73 (get ready to dump)
The best hands give you a made hand with a redraw on the flop: Example QQJTds can give you top set plus a straight draw or flush draw.
Don't overvalue:
-2 pair
-Aces/overpairs
-trips: you can lose by kicker or by a full house
-Non-nut flushes, non-nut straights
-bottom set
-underfulls, non-nut full houses
-straights with no redraws, especially when out of position
-non-nut outs
Beware of:
-"duplicate" straights-- when you and someone else both have the nut straight. Imagine you flop the nut straight where there is a 2-flush (that you don't have) on the board-- It's possible for someone else to have the straight AND have a draw to the flush. If he raises you, he could be "freerolling", meaning he has the straight also, but is drawing to a better hand. This is a situation where you'd muck the nuts if you were deep.
-paired boards
-playing marginal hands out of position-- despite all the talk of "the nuts" there is a lot of turn and river bluffing, especially when the pot is heads up. It's easy for the person with position (last to act) to pull off a bluff.
Avoid:
-Slowplaying: It's way too easy for someone to draw out on you. Giving free cards is way more dangerous than in NLHE.
-Value betting small amounts on the flop/turn: for similar reasons as you avoid slowplaying. Usually 2/3rds to full pot is a good flop/turn bet.
-Raising preflop from early position-- If you barely catch the flop (which is most the time) this tends to create the nightmare scenario of being out of position, short-handed/heads-up, in a raised pot with marginal holdings.
Pay attention to:
-your outs. Holdem straight draws end at 8 outs. In Omaha, a standard "wrap" straight draw is 13 outs, and that's not including any flush outs.
-the betting/checking/raising dynamic from street to street-- People tend to leak more information in PLO than in Hold'em because slowplaying a made hands is more dangerous and because scare cards are really scary. There's a little more "honesty" in players' actions, which means a late position player gains a lot of information from the early-position players, which means he can act a little more "dishonestly."
-the street at which a draw is made possible: I'd be much more comfortable playing a mid-strength flush if it was made on the river while heads up than if it came on the flop while five-handed. Same with non-nut straights.
-the number of players in the hand at that particular street-- the game is much more sensitive to the number of players, since each player brings more cards combinations than in hold'em. The non-nuts often wins in Heads-up pots, while multiway action has much nuttier showdown hands.
-the power of position (as mentioned above) -- the scent of weakness wafts clockwise to the button. Watch how it is used. Also watch how much more value is extracted from later position, as the button's value bets are confused with bluffs, and as weaker hands lead out into the button, who can slowplay or raise.
-stack size: short-stack play (<40 bb) vastly increases the power of Aces, two pair and sets. Deeper stacks make drawing hands more valuable, makes position more important, and allows huge bluffs to be made.
-your tilt meter: PLO gives you a lot of excuses to put your chips in the middle. Even mild tilt can push you towards making drastic mistakes
Don't be scared to:
- put all your money in on a draw: 13+ nut outs justifies an all-in raise.
- semibluff: Bet your big draws because there is more equity to those hands than in hold'em, and because you need to disguise your drawing hands. And because you can win the pot outright.
- Bluff: use position to smell weakness and attack when a scare card hits. People will be doing it to you.
Be able to:
-make big laydowns when the actions suggest you're beat. This means dumping what was the nuts on the flop, when turn action suggests your hand got over run.
-make big calls with the non-nuts when there's a decent chance you're being bullied.
Hopefully, after reading this you can have fun while saving yourself a few buy-ins, or even come out ahead
09-24-2009
, 03:30 AM
Quote:
Starting hands
-are coordinated. Examples:
-"rundowns": 6789
-"gappers": 689T
-big double suited hands (ds): AdKsJdTs
-big pairs, double pairs: 88TT, good for flopping sets, and for use as "blocker" bluffs
-strong Aces AAJT, AAXXds
-weak Aces: AA73 (get ready to dump)
The best hands give you a made hand with a redraw on the flop: Example QQJTds can give you top set plus a straight draw or flush draw.
Don't overvalue:
-2 pair
-Aces/overpairs
-trips: you can lose by kicker or by a full house
-Non-nut flushes, non-nut straights
-bottom set
-underfulls, non-nut full houses
-straights with no redraws, especially when out of position
-non-nut outs
Beware of:
-"duplicate" straights-- when you and someone else both have the nut straight. Imagine you flop the nut straight where there is a 2-flush (that you don't have) on the board-- It's possible for someone else to have the straight AND have a draw to the flush. If he raises you, he could be "freerolling", meaning he has the straight also, but is drawing to a better hand. This is a situation where you'd muck the nuts if you were deep.
-paired boards
-playing marginal hands out of position-- despite all the talk of "the nuts" there is a lot of turn and river bluffing, especially when the pot is heads up. It's easy for the person with position (last to act) to pull off a bluff.
Avoid:
-Slowplaying: It's way too easy for someone to draw out on you. Giving free cards is way more dangerous than in NLHE.
-Value betting small amounts on the flop/turn: for similar reasons as you avoid slowplaying. Usually 2/3rds to full pot is a good flop/turn bet.
-Raising preflop from early position-- If you barely catch the flop (which is most the time) this tends to create the nightmare scenario of being out of position, short-handed/heads-up, in a raised pot with marginal holdings.
Pay attention to:
-your outs. Holdem straight draws end at 8 outs. In Omaha, a standard "wrap" straight draw is 13 outs, and that's not including any flush outs.
-the betting/checking/raising dynamic from street to street-- People tend to leak more information in PLO than in Hold'em because slowplaying a made hands is more dangerous and because scare cards are really scary. There's a little more "honesty" in players' actions, which means a late position player gains a lot of information from the early-position players, which means he can act a little more "dishonestly."
-the street at which a draw is made possible: I'd be much more comfortable playing a mid-strength flush if it was made on the river while heads up than if it came on the flop while five-handed. Same with non-nut straights.
-the number of players in the hand at that particular street-- the game is much more sensitive to the number of players, since each player brings more cards combinations than in hold'em. The non-nuts often wins in Heads-up pots, while multiway action has much nuttier showdown hands.
-the power of position (as mentioned above) -- the scent of weakness wafts clockwise to the button. Watch how it is used. Also watch how much more value is extracted from later position, as the button's value bets are confused with bluffs, and as weaker hands lead out into the button, who can slowplay or raise.
-stack size: short-stack play (<40 bb) vastly increases the power of Aces, two pair and sets. Deeper stacks make drawing hands more valuable, makes position more important, and allows huge bluffs to be made.
-your tilt meter: PLO gives you a lot of excuses to put your chips in the middle. Even mild tilt can push you towards making drastic mistakes
Don't be scared to:
- put all your money in on a draw: 13+ nut outs justifies an all-in raise.
- semibluff: Bet your big draws because there is more equity to those hands than in hold'em, and because you need to disguise your drawing hands. And because you can win the pot outright.
- Bluff: use position to smell weakness and attack when a scare card hits. People will be doing it to you.
Be able to:
-make big laydowns when the actions suggest you're beat. This means dumping what was the nuts on the flop, when turn action suggests your hand got over run.
-make big calls with the non-nuts when there's a decent chance you're being bullied.
Hopefully, after reading this you can have fun while saving yourself a few buy-ins, or even come out ahead
-are coordinated. Examples:
-"rundowns": 6789
-"gappers": 689T
-big double suited hands (ds): AdKsJdTs
-big pairs, double pairs: 88TT, good for flopping sets, and for use as "blocker" bluffs
-strong Aces AAJT, AAXXds
-weak Aces: AA73 (get ready to dump)
The best hands give you a made hand with a redraw on the flop: Example QQJTds can give you top set plus a straight draw or flush draw.
Don't overvalue:
-2 pair
-Aces/overpairs
-trips: you can lose by kicker or by a full house
-Non-nut flushes, non-nut straights
-bottom set
-underfulls, non-nut full houses
-straights with no redraws, especially when out of position
-non-nut outs
Beware of:
-"duplicate" straights-- when you and someone else both have the nut straight. Imagine you flop the nut straight where there is a 2-flush (that you don't have) on the board-- It's possible for someone else to have the straight AND have a draw to the flush. If he raises you, he could be "freerolling", meaning he has the straight also, but is drawing to a better hand. This is a situation where you'd muck the nuts if you were deep.
-paired boards
-playing marginal hands out of position-- despite all the talk of "the nuts" there is a lot of turn and river bluffing, especially when the pot is heads up. It's easy for the person with position (last to act) to pull off a bluff.
Avoid:
-Slowplaying: It's way too easy for someone to draw out on you. Giving free cards is way more dangerous than in NLHE.
-Value betting small amounts on the flop/turn: for similar reasons as you avoid slowplaying. Usually 2/3rds to full pot is a good flop/turn bet.
-Raising preflop from early position-- If you barely catch the flop (which is most the time) this tends to create the nightmare scenario of being out of position, short-handed/heads-up, in a raised pot with marginal holdings.
Pay attention to:
-your outs. Holdem straight draws end at 8 outs. In Omaha, a standard "wrap" straight draw is 13 outs, and that's not including any flush outs.
-the betting/checking/raising dynamic from street to street-- People tend to leak more information in PLO than in Hold'em because slowplaying a made hands is more dangerous and because scare cards are really scary. There's a little more "honesty" in players' actions, which means a late position player gains a lot of information from the early-position players, which means he can act a little more "dishonestly."
-the street at which a draw is made possible: I'd be much more comfortable playing a mid-strength flush if it was made on the river while heads up than if it came on the flop while five-handed. Same with non-nut straights.
-the number of players in the hand at that particular street-- the game is much more sensitive to the number of players, since each player brings more cards combinations than in hold'em. The non-nuts often wins in Heads-up pots, while multiway action has much nuttier showdown hands.
-the power of position (as mentioned above) -- the scent of weakness wafts clockwise to the button. Watch how it is used. Also watch how much more value is extracted from later position, as the button's value bets are confused with bluffs, and as weaker hands lead out into the button, who can slowplay or raise.
-stack size: short-stack play (<40 bb) vastly increases the power of Aces, two pair and sets. Deeper stacks make drawing hands more valuable, makes position more important, and allows huge bluffs to be made.
-your tilt meter: PLO gives you a lot of excuses to put your chips in the middle. Even mild tilt can push you towards making drastic mistakes
Don't be scared to:
- put all your money in on a draw: 13+ nut outs justifies an all-in raise.
- semibluff: Bet your big draws because there is more equity to those hands than in hold'em, and because you need to disguise your drawing hands. And because you can win the pot outright.
- Bluff: use position to smell weakness and attack when a scare card hits. People will be doing it to you.
Be able to:
-make big laydowns when the actions suggest you're beat. This means dumping what was the nuts on the flop, when turn action suggests your hand got over run.
-make big calls with the non-nuts when there's a decent chance you're being bullied.
Hopefully, after reading this you can have fun while saving yourself a few buy-ins, or even come out ahead
You can write a book soon....
09-24-2009
, 04:35 AM
