I said 0 for the ones where we didn't flop anything. In retrospect I may have been wrong about 654s, may need to think about that a little more.

Just on a basic theory level, when running a multistreet bluff, you should do it with the best hands, equitywise, that you would otherwise fold. In most of these hands, you've got 200+ combos of better hands than 98o to do this with, and only around 100 combos of legitimate value check-raising hands. I hate to make a balancing argument, but this is so far off that anyone paying attention is going to notice pretty quickly and start rebluffing. At which point you have to start asking yourself whether it's really worth your time and energy to get into ridiculous leveling games with a TAG who shows down just a little too tight. Among other things you could spend it getting on a table where the guy two to your right never steals at all, or steals but shows down 28%, which are plentiful at all micro full ring and not too uncommon even at 6-max.

If you're playing a very small number of tables, it could be a good strategy to play back a lot until the guy notices and then switch to a strict value game. At higher stakes where you can't avoid these guys as easily this sort of gear-changing is a very good skill to have, but it's hugely dominated by game selection, which is the biggest advantage of small stakes, and it's very difficult to track where you are with which opponent well while masstabling, which is what a lot of us are here for. There are a couple of LAGTAGs and decent TAGs I bother to play leveling games with at 1/2, mostly because they're bad at it and there are few enough non-awful players in that game that I want to discourage them from sitting with me. Also because it's mildly entertaining and owning one of them is a good remedy for running bad.

Also on a basic theory level, anyone who gave a percentage other than 0% or 100% on any of these flops except A98 has a fundamental misunderstanding of how to form a distribution. Very rarely do you have to make a bluff distribution that contains partial hands in LHE, and I'd venture to go so far as never on the flop. Your range of legitimate hands is plenty big here to have whole-number bluffs. (Made hands can be different. On A98 because 98 is the only bottom two hand, you may want to split it up. On 999 you can split your distribution by kicker.)

I think your view is flawed here.
a) Who said anything about a multistreet bluff? We are bluffing the flop on the A-high boards, if the other guy calls or raises we give up, easy!
b) You don't have to have equity to run a bluff. In fact, it's much easier to bluff with 34 than with K-high on the A-high boards, because you might be actually folding out worse hands you want calls from plus you've got SD value. 34 basically you fold out every better hand, so you gain by having fold equity.
c) You are not always c/r the flop for value, you can also c/r because of fold equity -> to fold out a better hand!

We are here for masstabling?!?! I thought the forums were here to make us better.
So the LAGTAGs and the TAGs are bad at the leveling game. From you answers to the questions, especially the conviction with which you quote absolutes like 0% or 100% I wonder who's getting leveled here.

Wait, lol, what? I think you have a fundamental misunderstanding of game theory, which deals with balances and equilibrium distributions and not absolutes!
Same with the coinflip. Although it lands either heads or tails (0 or 100%) it still follows a Gaussian distribution in percentage it lands heads or tails after n (n -> infty) trials.

Well I sort of agree with tapir on most of the points he made. The problem is that it takes some work to decide what your best x combos that you would normally be folding are on every board at game speed and it's pretty tough to do if you're playing more than 2 tables.

There's another flaw to that method, which is that variance can throw your metagame through loops. Say you estimate that QJs is the strongest hand you'd be folding on an A72 flop. So you decide to bluff w/ QJs, QJo, QTs, and QTo. In one session that situation happens to come up 8 times and you c/r all 8 times. Your image now becomes very bluffy and you lose a ton of the fold equity that you once had. The last few times you run that bluff you're basically burning money.

If you decide, however, that you'll c/r your medium strength hands (say those cards that fall between the 7 and the K) at around a 30-35% frequency, then you can control through each session how often you're bluffing.

More importantly, though, this exercise was meant to help look at board textures and which ones may be good to bluff at vs which ones people never fold.

4 8 15 16 23 42

happy 11K imo triple b.

Forgive me if bumping something so old is bad manner, but.. I'd love someone to scold me if im playing these hands wrong

I don't balance my play at all, so i try to play my bluffs and strong hands the same way. By default, i usually check hu against a raiser OOP. So assuming he bets...


AKQ rainbow?

Scary. Too scary for me. Fold.

A72 rainbow?
KK3 rainbow?

Raise. If he doesn't have an ace i feel good about taking the pot.

KK3 two tone?

Fold. I raise draws too often to pure bluff where someone might think im semi bluffing.

654 mono (same suit)?

This is by far the hardest spot for me. Against a tight player I want to donk bet it. Usually check/fold.

223 rainbow?

Fold. He's not folding and anything beats me.

A98 rainbow?

Raise and cap. Hope he's got an ace.

999 rainbow?

Against very aggressive players i might donk bet it in hopes of a 3 bet. Usually check/raise and cap.

LOL at my reply to this thread.

Posts: 1

Wonder if he at least got old at poker.

wow neat bump

4kish posts in last 2 years - i've slowed down some

wow - great thread... gotta read it again...

Added %'s; Elaborated slightly

Am i too black and white? I see many people with varied %'s. My logic in all these situations(that im playing) is basically that I'm in a fairly good spot and my opponent hasn't really shown any strength.

hi micros!

The micro library is really overlooked. I can't believe how sick this thread is.

* g *

I want a piece of the flop, so of those hands I would only x/r A98r and 999, plus the 654 mono as a mostly-bluff. The hands that would interest me are ones where I only have one piece of the flop, like A92 or 854. I would (weakly) x/c those except for an occasional x/r against a frequent opponent.